▲ ▲ ▲ FASHION: FASHION: NEWS: ▲ RETAIL: Dior’s Alexander Cacharel J.C. artful Wang wins splits Penney approach in Vogue/CFDA with Eley talks Beijing, Fashion Fund, Kishimoto, holiday page 4. page 2. page 2. strategy, page 3. WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • November 18, 2008 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles EXCLUSIVE PREVIEW Face Time It’s not every day that a singer in an underground band becomes the inspiration for a top designer’s collection, but Liela Moss, the lead vocalist of The Duke Spirit, is the muse behind Alexander McQueen’s McQ Alexander McQueen for Target line, which is debuting for spring. It’s a contemporary collection with a rock ’n’ roll twist. Here, Moss in a photo-print cotton dress and cardigan from McQ, her own unitard, a Tatty Divine necklace and L.A.M.B. boots. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Battling the Downturn: Indie Retailers Adapt To Survive Tough Times By Sharon Edelson If the likes of Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth ARAH LIEBOWITZ ARAH Avenue and Nordstrom are struggling because of the economy, just think of how bad things must be for the little guy. Independent designer boutiques are feeling the impact of the downturn even more than their larger brethren, which last month saw double-digit declines in comparable-store sales. And while larger chains can leverage units in healthier markets, trim fat from the organization, buy back company stock, use their clout to negotiate better prices from suppliers and take steep markdowns early in the holiday season — such tactics aren’t options for independents already operating with lean staffs. “The big people have so much more recourse See Small, Page13 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; HAIR BY SEAN JAMES DECUERS AND MAKEUP BY JORDY POON, BOTH FOR THE RITA HAZAN SALON; FASHION ASSISTANT: S ASSISTANT: FASHION HAZAN SALON; POON, BOTH FOR THE RITA JORDY SEAN JAMES DECUERS AND MAKEUP BY MITRA; HAIR BY ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2008 WWD.COM Wang Wins Fashion Fund Award By Marc Karimzadeh Galliano as the night’s keynote speaker. This year’s selection committee consisted WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles NEW YORK — Alexander Wang was chosen as the of CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg; fifth CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund recipient. CFDA executive director Steven Kolb and as- FASHION At Monday night’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund sociate director Lisa Smilor; Vogue’s Anna An Alexander McQueen collection for Target might dinner gala, Wang took home the top honors, Wintour and Sally Singer; Theory’s Andrew 6 pocketing $200,000 and a year’s worth of mentor- Rosen; Coach’s Reed Krakoff; Jeffrey Kalinsky seem dichotomous, but the designer said, “I ing. Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai of Vena Cava of Jeffrey New York and Nordstrom; Gap’s wasn’t born with a silver spoon in my mouth.” and Albertus Q. Swanepoel of Albertus Quartus Patrick Robinson, and Barneys New York’s GENERAL were this year’s runners-up, and will each re- Julie Gilhart. ceive $50,000 and a business mentor. Founded by the Council of Fashion Designers 1 If Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom The winners beat out fi nalists Richard Chai, of America and Vogue, the fund is seen as an are struggling due to the economy, just think of Jason Wu, Irene Neuwirth, Alejandro Ingelmo, accelerator of fashion careers. Previous win- how bad things must be for the little guy. Juan Carlos Obando, Obedient Sons & Daughters ners were Rogan in 2007, Doo-Ri Chung in 2006, 2 French brand Cacharel has ended its association and Organic. Trovata in 2005 and Proenza Schouler in 2004. with British designers Mary Eley and Wakako In addition to the fi nalists, the dinner feted Past runners-up were 3.1 Phillip Lim, Philip Kishimoto, known together as Eley Kishimoto. the Fashion Fund’s fi fth anniversary. The event Crangi Jewelry, Rodarte, Thakoon, Derek Lam, took place at Skylight Studios here, with John Thom Browne, Cloak and Habitual. 3 J.C. Penney Co. released its Christmas strategy, emphasizing new “affordable” products, greater values and shopping conveniences. Christian Dior Couture unveiling of a Dior-themed ▲ 4 Cacharel Parts Ways With Eley and Kishimoto art exhibit in Beijing created by some of the hottest stars of Chinese contemporary art. By Robert Murphy more seasons to express our vision,” he said. In a telephone interview, Eley suggested the 5 Italian clothing company Brioni is looking for a PARIS — Cacharel, the French brand known for two parties had differing views about how to adapt partner, putting a 20 to 25 percent stake up for its young sportswear, has chewed through an- the collection to these tough times in the market. sale and tapping BNP Paribas as its adviser. other designing couple. “Everyone is having a rough time at retail, The company on Monday said it had ended and I think Mr. Bousquet wanted certain com- 8 RTW: Fifty years after Diana Vreeland urged its association with British design couple Mary mercial gains, while we wanted to focus on Arnold Scaasi to add jewelry to his repertoire, Eley and Wakako Kishimoto, known together as building the brand aesthetic. We didn’t want to he’s back at it with a new collection for HSN. Eley Kishimoto. be making dramatic changes,” he said. 9 TEXTILES: Sourcing executives expect an onslaught The duo joined Cacharel in November 2007, Cacharel has had diffi cultly fi nding its way in of restrictive trade efforts under Democratic control and showed their fi rst proper runway collection recent years. Jean Bousquet, the brand’s found- of the White House and Congress. in October here, earning mixed reviews. Spring er, wants to give the brand new energy. 2009 was their fi nal collection for the house. When he hired Clements and Ribeiro, Bousquet Classifi ed Advertisements.................................................................................................15 They had been tapped to replace another was intent on building business in important mar- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS British designer couple, Suzanne Clements and kets like America and Japan. When that collabo- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Inacio Ribeiro, who spent seven years trying to ration fi zzled, a decision was made to bring in Eley WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 rev up Cacharel. Kishimoto. It seemed to show Bousquet remained FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 196, NO. 106. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with The French company billed the split with devoted to growing the brand. one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and Eley Kishimoto as “ending on a positive note.” The house has had trouble fi nding the right November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services The house said the decision stemmed from a pricing and marketing strategy for its prod- provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. “difference in creative vision.” Cacharel de- ucts in recent years, with efforts to grow in the Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage clined further comment. United States fi nding mixed success. paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian Eley told WWD there was “a confl ict over cre- Eley Kishimoto, meanwhile, will continue addresses to: P.O. 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