Follow Us on WeChat Now that's guangzhou that's shenzhen China Intercontinental Press THE HUKOU Advertising Hotline Is China's Internal Passport Here To Stay? 城市漫步珠三角 PLUS: 英文版 3 月份 Win a Stay at Banyan Tree Lijiang with the That's AR App 国内统一刊号: MARCH 2017 CN 11-5234/GO China Goes Mad for Beef An Interview with Amy Tan that’s PRD 《城市漫步》珠江三角洲 英文月刊 主管单位 : 中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 : 五洲传播出版社 地址 : 北京西城月坛北街 26 号恒华国际商务中心南楼 11 层文化交流中心 11th Floor South Building, Henghua lnternational Business Center, 26 Yuetan North Street, Xicheng District, Beijing http://www.cicc.org.cn 总编辑 Editor in Chief of China Intercontinental Press: 慈爱民 Ci Aimin 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department: 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui 编辑 : 梁健 发行 / 市场 : 黄静 李若琳 广告 : 林煜宸 Editor in Chief Jocelyn Richards Shenzhen Editor Sky Thomas Gidge Senior Digital Editor Matthew Bossons Shenzhen Digital Editor Bailey Hu Senior Staff Writer Tristin Zhang Editorial Assistant Ziyi Yuan National Arts Editor Andrew Chin Contributors Dr. Hsing K. Chen, Iain Cocks, Lena Gidwani, Mia Li, Noelle Mateer, Thomas Powell, Betty Richardson, Tongfei Zhang HK FOCUS MEDIA Shanghai (Head Office) 上海和舟广告有限公司 上海市蒙自路 169 号智造局 2 号楼 305-306 室 邮政编码 : 200023 Room 305-306, Building 2, No.169 Mengzi Lu, Shanghai 200023 电话 : 传真 : Guangzhou 上海和舟广告有限公司广州分公司 广州市麓苑路 42 号大院 2 号楼 610 室 邮政编码 : 510095 Rm 610, No. 2 Building, Area 42, Luyuan Lu, Guangzhou 510095 电话 : 020-8358 6125 传真 : 020-8357 3859 - 816 Shenzhen 深圳联络处 深圳市福田区彩田路星河世纪大厦 C1-1303 C1-1303, Galaxy Century Building, Caitian Lu, Futian District, Shenzhen 电话 : 0755-8623 3220 传真 : 0755-6406 8538 Beijing 北京联络处 北京市东城区东直门外大街 48 号东方银座 C 座 G9 室 邮政编码 : 100027 9G, Block C, Ginza Mall, No. 48 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing, 100027 电话 : 010-8447 7002 传真 : 010-8447 6455 General Manager Henry Zeng Operations Manager Rachel Tong Accountant Annie Qi Production Supervisor Jack Lin Senior Designer Tawaka Jiang, Designer Claire Zheng Sales Managers Celia Yu, Justin Lu Account Manager Christy Cai Senior Account Executive Shumin Li Account Executives Wesley Zhang, Nicole Tang, Annie Li Sales Assistant Sunnie Lü Event Manager Valentina Latorraca Event Supervisor Alice Wang Marketing Executive Fish Lin, Peggy Ni Distribution Luo Zhi, He Wei Wen National Operation CEO Leo Zhou Head of Communication Ned Kelly National Marketing Executive Zoe Zhou HR/Admin Director Penny Li Financial Manager Laura Lu Head of Digital Vickie Guo Digital Sybil Zhang, Joseph Miao, Miller Yue, Amanda Bao, Lambert Chen General enquiries and switchboard (020) 8358 6125 [email protected] Editorial (020) 8358 9847 ext 808 [email protected] Sales (Guangzhou) (020) 8358 9847 ext 802 [email protected] (Shenzhen) (0755) 8623 3210 ext 801 Distribution/Subscription (020) 8358 7749 ext 828 Listings & Events (Guangzhou) (020) 8358 9847 ext 808 (Shenzhen) (0755) 8623 3220 Web & IT (021) 5238 5459 Fax (020) 8363 3759 ext. 816 www.thatsmags.com 广告经营许可证 : 京海工商厂字第 8069 号 法律大部 : 大成律师事务所 魏君贤律师 Distribution Legal advisor: Wei Junxian, Dacheng Law Firm across the 国际标准刊号 : ISSN 1672-8041 国内统一刊号 : CN 11-5233/GO Pearl River ： Delta: 63,000 定价 : 25.00 元 邮发代号 46-193 copies 如发现印刷装订问题 , 请与广州白云天马印刷厂联系 部分非卖品 , 仅限赠阅 2 | GZ | MARCH 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WIN WIN WIN Editor's Note March The hukou. You may have heard of it as that ‘other ID’ your Chinese friends complain about when they go to buy a car or move to a new city. Issued a few days after birth and valid until one’s final breath, it used to dictate exactly where one could live, eat, work, attend school and access healthcare. Though the hukou’s role is far less pronounced today, it’s still a key player behind the scenes – the force enabling China’s economic boom and fracturing families in the process. But with President Xi Jinping himself allegedly calling to phase out the system years ago, is China’s internal passport finally ready to retire? Find out on p36. In Guangzhou, a pair of tickets to jazz In City, we dive into the meaty topic of beef to see how China’s growing appetite for red band Papanosh (p68), a pair of tick- meat affects us all. If the country’s beef consumption continues to rise at its current rate of 15 ets to street dancers The Best Crew percent per year, we can bet our world’s ecosystems – and climate – will suffer devastating (p69), a pair of tickets to The Game of Love and Chance (p69), a pair of tick- consequences. Flip to page 12 to read the full story. ets to the dance drama Lan Huahua Elsewhere in the magazine, we explore an unmapped village in Shenzhen (p21), chat with by China Oriental Song and Dance the best-selling author of The Joy Luck Club Amy Tan (p28) and risk our lives trying 7/11’s Troupe (p69) and a pair of tickets to new prepackaged hot dogs so that you, dear reader, may be spared the experience (p60). the Three Phantoms in Macau (p72). Finally, I’d like to take this opportunity to formally introduce our new WeChat accounts: In Shenzhen, a pair of tickets to UK ThatsGuangzhou and ThatsShenzhen. It’s tough to keep up with technology in a place like five-piece hardcore band Fathoms China, where street-side vendors accept mobile payments and unlocking a bike is as easy as (p70), a pair of tickets to Montreal pop scanning it with a phone. To stay relevant in this age of virtual tech, we’re switching to a new band Braids (p70) and 10 vouchers account that will allow our followers to utilize a variety of new functions, including WeChat’s to George & Dragon, with six valued mini-programs and augmented reality (AR), which can be used in conjunction with our print at RMB50 and four valued at RMB80 (p78). magazine. Exciting changes are in store, so keep checking our website and WeChat for updates and To find out how to win one of these don't be a stranger – we’re always happy to hear your feedback! fabulous prizes, simply message our respective WeChat account Until next month, (ThatsGuangzhou) or (ThatsShenzhen) with the name of the prize you would like. Jocelyn Richards Editor-in-Chief Win a stay at the Banyan Tree Lijiang! that's guangzhou that's shenzhen Hourly updates on news, current affairs and general weirdness from around PRD and China. FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Android iOS facebook.com/thatsonline Turn to p53 for a chance to win a stay in the Banyan Tree Lijiang’s luxurious Jet Pool twitter.com/thatsonline Villa with the new That's AR app. Standing for Augmented Reality, the AR app allows users to scan the magazine to see interactive digital content such as video, audio, images youtube.com/thatsonline and visualized 3D models leaping off the page and coming to life. Scan the relevant QR code below to download it now. #ThatsPRD 4 | GZ | MARCH 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | MARCH 2017 | GZ | 5 8 CITY 36 COVER STORY THE HUKOU 9 COMING CLEAN Is China’s ‘Internal Passport’ Becoming Obsolete? City street sweeper. 12 BEHIND THE CONCRETE Canton Customs Mansion. 18 LIFE & STYLE 44 COMMUNITY 19 ENZO HOUANG Back in black. 24 TIGER LEAPING GORGE Trekking through one of China's deepest canyons. 68 EVENTS 28 ARTS 29 FORESTS Eastern emo. 32 SLEEPMAKESWAVES UNTIL MARCH 9 Thunder from down Register for the K2Fit Challenge under. MARCH 25-26 58 EAT & The Game of Love and Chance DRINK 62 INAKAYA Fire and ice. 64 HAY COFFEE Home of the fantasy bean. MARCH 23-25 Art Basel in Hong Kong THE WRAP 6 | GZ | MARCH 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM CITY Mad for Beef What China's growing appetite for red meat means for the world, p12 Liede's Vanishing Village Chinese Urban Dictionary P10 P11 8 | GZ | MARCH 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MAN ON THE STREET COMING CLEAN City Street Sweeper Text and photo by Jocelyn Richards t’s just after noon Sunday when we spot Stopping him to chat in broad daylight enjoy enough annual leave to travel back our guy: a youngish-looking man wear- suddenly seems terribly inconsiderate, but to their hometowns once a year. Yang sees Iing a neon vest, broom and dustpan in Yang declines our offer to walk and talk. the journey more as a chore, however, since hand. He’s balancing precariously on a white “Don’t worry about it, my boss is at lunch unlike many migrant workers, his wife and railing that faces Tianhe Dong Lu, leaning now,” he insists, looking rather determined child live with him in Guangzhou. to make the most of this precious interrup- “My relatives don’t want to hear about plastic bottle. tion. He says passersby rarely give him the garbage,” he grunts when we ask if he’s intoOur oncoming eyes meet traffic momentarily to sweep up as an he unruly steps time of day, much less strike up a conversa- become an advocate for environmentally down, but in a second he’s off again, navigat- tion, but their attitude doesn’t faze him. friendly behavior. “You tell them not to litter ing the sea of cigarette butts littered across “They see my job as the lowest line and they’ll curse you.” the pavement. We jog to catch up. of work there is. Me? I’m just getting by. I Yang’s daughter, on the other hand, is “Hey there, you patrol this street every moved here from Sichuan for better shebao different.