PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT TRAINING IMPACT ON ARTISAN CAPABILITIES AND SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS SUCCESS by Elizabeth Davelaar A thesis submitted to the Faculty of the University of Delaware in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in Fashion and Apparel Studies Spring, 2017 © 2017 Elizabeth Davelaar All Rights Reserved PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT TRAINING IMPACT ON ARTISAN CAPABILITIES AND SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS SUCCESS by Elizabeth Davelaar Approved: __________________________________________________________ Marsha Dickson, Ph.D. Professor in charge of thesis on behalf of the Advisory Committee Approved: __________________________________________________________ Hye-Shin Kim, Ph.D. Chair of the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies Approved: __________________________________________________________ George Watson, Ph.D. Dean of the College of Arts and Sciences Approved: __________________________________________________________ Ann L. Ardis, Ph.D. Senior Vice Provost for Graduate and Professional Education ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I am truly honored to be able to thank all the people who have taken me under their wings and made this thesis possible. First, to Dr. Marsha Dickson, I extend my most sincere thanks. From the very beginning, she encouraged me to follow my passions and helped me through all of the challenges that came with planning international research and travel. It was truly a joy to be able to learn from someone who has a great understanding and a passion for the same things I do. I cannot express how grateful I am for her mentorship and guidance through the process of writing my thesis. Secondly, I would like to thank Dr. Lu and Prof. Cobb for being on my thesis committee. Both have taught me so much about their perspective areas of focus and have always pushed me to be my best and to challenge myself. Next, I would like to thank the entire fashion department at the University of Delaware and to the professors of which I have had the opportunity to work for. They have all pushed me and have been very understanding through the whole writing process. A special thank you to Deborah Chandler for being our guide for the 10 days we explored Guatemala. Her expertise and knowledge of the industry are invaluable to this research. I would like to thank my family for their continuous support and for always believing that I can conquer the world. Their support has been irreplaceable through all of this and it would not be complete without them. Lastly, I would like to thank God for giving me a clear passion and dream that has led me to many crazy places. While the dream of helping people started 10 years ago, this is the first real output I have of it. For that I am extremely thankful. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES ...................................................................................................... viii LIST OF FIGURES ....................................................................................................... ix ABSTRACT .................................................................................................................. xi Chapter 1 INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................. 1 1.1 Introduction ............................................................................................... 1 1.2 Literature Review Overview ..................................................................... 1 1.3 Proposed Theoretical Model ...................................................................... 5 1.4 Purpose and Research Questions ............................................................... 5 1.5 History of Guatemala and Guatemalan Craft ............................................ 6 1.6 Method ....................................................................................................... 9 1.7 Justification ................................................................................................ 9 1.8 Operational Definitions ........................................................................... 10 1.9 Assumptions and Limitations .................................................................. 11 2 REVIEW OF LITERATURE ........................................................................... 12 2.1 History of Artisans and Crafts ................................................................. 12 2.2 Artisan Business and Cultural Significance ............................................ 15 2.3 Crafts as a Development Tool and Chamber’s Web of Responsible Wellbeing ................................................................................................ 20 2.4 Durham and Littrell’s Model for Performance of Peace Corps Handicraft Enterprises ............................................................................. 28 2.5 Constraints within the Artisan/Informal Sector ....................................... 31 2.5.1 Technology and Facilities ............................................................ 32 2.5.2 Hyper-competition and Market Access ....................................... 32 2.5.3 Financial Access .......................................................................... 34 2.5.4 Formalization of the Sector ......................................................... 35 2.5.5 Education ..................................................................................... 36 2.5.6 Findings to Combat Constraints .................................................. 40 2.6 Product Development Training ............................................................... 41 2.6.1 Informal Sector Training Methods/Interventions. ....................... 41 2.6.2 Need for Training in Small/Medium Size Apparel Production Enterprises ................................................................................... 49 2.6.3 Innovations, Interventions, and Examples of Product Development ................................................................................ 50 iv 2.6.4 Understanding Tastes and Preferences for Artisans and Consumers ................................................................................... 57 2.7 Theoretical Model ................................................................................... 60 3 METHOD ......................................................................................................... 64 3.1 Research Questions ................................................................................. 64 3.2 Research Approach .................................................................................. 65 3.3 Interview Schedules ................................................................................. 66 3.4 Field Research ......................................................................................... 67 3.4.1 Recruitment of Participants ......................................................... 67 3.4.2 Data Collection ............................................................................ 68 3.5 Data Analysis ........................................................................................... 72 4 RESULTS ......................................................................................................... 75 4.1 Introduction ............................................................................................. 75 4.2 Case Study #1: Building Baskets, Building Opportunity ........................ 75 4.2.1 Products Created .......................................................................... 78 4.2.2 Product Development Training ................................................... 79 4.2.3 Capabilities .................................................................................. 82 4.2.4 Internal Constraints ..................................................................... 83 4.2.5 Business Success ......................................................................... 84 4.2.6 Sustainability Awareness ............................................................. 86 4.2.7 External Constraints .................................................................... 86 4.3 Case Study #2: ‘Compassion’ Training ................................................... 88 4.3.1 Product Development Training ................................................... 93 4.3.2 Capabilities .................................................................................. 95 4.3.3 Internal Constraints ..................................................................... 96 4.3.4 Business Success ......................................................................... 98 4.3.5 Sustainability Awareness ............................................................. 99 4.3.6 External Constraints .................................................................... 99 4.4 Case Study #3: Weaving Opportunity ................................................... 100 4.4.1 Products Created ........................................................................ 101 4.4.2 Product Development Training ................................................. 102 4.4.3 Capabilities ................................................................................ 105 v 4.4.4 Internal Constraints ................................................................... 108 4.4.5 Business Success ....................................................................... 109 4.4.6 Sustainability Awareness ........................................................... 110 4.4.7 External Constraints .................................................................