Juan Muga My San Sebastián SituatedonSpain’snortherncoast,it’sagastronomichotspotwith plentyofhigh-enddininganddrinking.Alocalresidentfromone of Rioja’s top wineries guides us to some of his favourite venues SAN SEBASTIAN HAS always been a central Born in San Sebastián, also has three restaurants with three stars partofmylife,asmuchattheprofessional Juan Muga is co- each: Arzak*, Martín Berasategui in Lasarte- levelastheemotional.Afterseveralyears manager at Rioja Oria (www.martinberasategui.com)andPedro livingoutsideSpain,Idecidedtocomebackto producer Bodegas Subijana’s Akelarre (www.akelarre.net). Added thecityofmybirth– and I have my wife María Muga, family-owned to that are other great restaurants such as that to thank for that. and run since 1932 ofourfamilyfriendTxominRekondo*,which Myfamilystartedaswine-growersin1590, hasagreatEuropeanwinelist;orPortuetxe* andmygrandparents,IsaacMugaandAurora and Txokolo (www.asadortxokolo.com), serving Caño,foundedBodegasMugaatHaroin1932. traditionaldishes;orLaVentadeCurro(+34 The traditionwascontinuedbymyfather 943456087)with its wonderful oxtail stew. Manuel, and my uncle and aunt, Isacín and Nowadays, San Sebastián is a showcase for Isabelita.Nowthethirdgenerationisatthe theimageofthenation’sproducts:it’sthe heart of the business, with my brother Manuel cradle of gastronomy in Spain. The Old Town andIinthecommercialsection,cousinsJorge areaaloneisfamedforitspintxobars,where and Isaac on the technical side, my brother you’ll find both a huge selection of the local Eduardo managing financial matters, and my speciality – pintxos are tapas-like snacks sister Ana and cousin Eva in consultancy roles. servedintypicalBasquestyle,usuallyona Haro isnottoofarfromSanSebastián,only skewerortoothpick(apintxo)–andalsoa about 140kminlandtothesouthwest.My wide choice of wines that offers much greater grandparents took regular holidays in San varietythanisusuallyfoundinSpain.You Sebastiánfromthe1940s,andeversinceour have to experience the mushrooms or a wholefamilyhasbeencloselylinkedtothis txangurro pie at Ganbara*, grilled crab at Bare beautifulcity.IattendedtheLycéeFrançais Bare (+34943420703),theseafoodat and Marianistas school, and still have many Ubarrechena,aT-bonesteakatBarNéstor*or great friends here. Gandarias*,thevarietyofpintxosatBar With its sandy beaches facing out into the Martínez (www.barmartinezdonosti.com)and BayofBiscay,SanSebastiánissynonymous AFuegoNegro(www.afuegonegro.com), or withgoodliving.Acityofjust170,000people, Below: a panoramic finish with the legendary cheesecake at La notonlydoesitboastmoreMichelinstarsper view over Donostia- Viña (www.lavinarestaurante.com). Beyond the resident than any other in the world, but it San Sebastiàn OldTown,enjoythestarpintxoLaDeliciaat La Espiga*, or cross the street (San Martzial Kalea) to sample wild mussels at Sansse Bar (+34943434922). SanSebastiánisoneofthemostelegant and cosmopolitan cities. Just something as simple as walking its three beaches – from OndarretauptoZurriola,takinginLaConcha in between – is hard to describe in words. Ilovetoridemymotorbikearounddowntown SanSebastián,anditisimpossiblenottofeel thethrillofiteveryday.Tofallinlovewith my beloved city is an easy thing to do. D *For further details of venues marked with an asterisk, see opposite page 116 | March 2018 • DECANTER MY SAN SEBASTIAN 2 Arzak 3 Portuetxe Father and daughter Juan Mari Areliablechoiceonthe and Elena set a worldwide western outskirts of the standard. The inventive city.Knownasoneofthe cookingandthreeMichelin best steakhouses in the stars speak for themselves. Basque Country, but also They have a spectacular cellar serves fine seafood. Don’t of wines too, managed by the miss the txuleta de vaca great Mariano. www.arzak.es –agedT-bonesteak. www.portuetxe.com 4 Kaia-Kaipe, Getaria Located close to the harbour and 1 Rekondo servingthebestgrilledturbotI I have wonderful have tasted anywhere (along with childhood memories of nearby Elkano). The dishes are the great friendship complemented by an outstanding betweenmyfather wine list. www.kaia-kaipe.com Manolo Muga and Txomin Rekondo–areferencein Basque cooking who has 7 Gandarias Bay of Biscay oneofthegreatestwine ThebestoptioninSan GETARIA cellarsintheworld.Try GI 20 Sebastián to enjoy a good thericewithclamshere. SAN lamb chop at any time of AP 1 Oria SEBASTIAN www.rekondo.com GETARIA Orio day, as the kitchen here 4 stays open until midnight. Bay of www.restaurante 5 Biscay N Elkano, Getaria 5 gandarias.com This one-star Michelin Zurriola Beach restaurant–nowrunby Monte ISLA DE Urgull Aitor,sonofthelate SANTA 87 CLARA 6 10 founder Pedro Arregui – Monte OLD 2 Igueldo Bahía de la TOWN has the best fish in the Concha Ondarreta 9 area (with its neighbour Beach GI 20 Kaia-Kaipe). The turbot La Concha Beach reigns supreme. www. 1 restauranteelkano.com 0 500 1000 Rio metres Urumea SAN GI 41 3 SEBASTIAN GI 20 6 Ganbara The txangurro (crab) pie and the selection of mushroomsmakethisan essential call. www. ganbarajatetxea.com 10 Bodega Donostiarra Has adeservedlyhigh 9 La Espiga reputation based on the Oneofthebestbars sheer quality of its raw 8 Bar Néstor in San Sebastián – ingredients. The pintxo Arrive early to secure your don’t miss the pintxo completo (baguette of place here, as it’s always La Delicia (pictured tuna, anchovy and pickled overbooked. Justly famed left),whichismade greenpeppers)isamust, for its tomato salad and with anchovy, egg, and the tortilla is also an thetxuleta–T-bonesteak. onion and parsley. excellent choice. www. www.barnestor.es +34 943 42 14 23 bodegadonostiarra.com Photopraph: Hercules Milas, age fotostock/Alamy Stock Photo. Map: Maggie Nelson Maggie Map: Photo. Stock fotostock/Alamy age Milas, Hercules Photopraph: DECANTER • March 2018 | 117.