Mission Nizamuddin Mission Nizamuddin MISSION NIZAMUDDIN The Twitter-based Micro-Travelogue MISSION about a journey across four Indian states NIZAMUDDIN The Twitter-based Micro-Travelogue about a journey across four Indian states By Jaihoon ADAM PUBLISHERS & DISTRIBUTORS NEW DELHI-110002 (INDIA) Mission Nizamuddin Mission Nizamuddin To Adam Publishers & Distributors (Exporters & Importers) 1542, Pataudi House, Darya Ganj, Hazrat Nizamuddin Awliya New Delhi-110002 Ph. : 23282550, 23284740, Fax.: 23267510 E-mail : [email protected] At a time when the Creed and its symbols are [email protected] hijacked website: www.adambooks.in Mercy and Love they have from it axed… Edition : 2010 We hold dear the Mystic Sultan of Delhi ISBN : Price : Whose mission liberated millions from the spiritual poverty Printed & Bound in India Published by : S. Sajid Ali, for, Adam Publishers & Distributors 1542, Pataudi House, Darya Ganj, New Delhi-110002, India Mission Nizamuddin Mission Nizamuddin memory lane once again. Recalls his entire travel duration once more and pens down his feelings which could be FOREWORD “neither right nor wrong”, something which makes one think for a while. A small travelogue by my dear respected friend Jaihoon. It is refreshingly original and pours out his thoughts on Dr Wasim Ahmad some of the mundane issues wherein he has read more Head of Islamic Department than meets the eyes. Preston University – Ajman, UAE Traveling is one of the very enriching experiences and the Divine words, in fact, encourage it. It is a great source of learning and one does not regret ever for undertaking a journey. He certainly comes back with some worthwhile memories and ideas. Jaihoon is true in his devotion to the earlier luminaries which was the driving force behind his undertaking this journey. His visiting of the mausoleums bears a testimony to the fact that there is a lot in the legacies of those universalist enlightened people which could guide us in the current perplexities and divisions. His occasional remarks about the cleanliness and hard- coming smiles from the strangers says a lot without saying much, for instance, “Agra greeted us with awful dirt”. Another example, “All done at the airport. Less by 1kg of the limit. The counter lady dealt with us in a smile which made me describe to her the experience of meeting very few who smiled in Delhi.” It will be enriching if Jaihoon goes back down the Mission Nizamuddin Mission Nizamuddin since school days, was only natural. I dedicate this meager work to Hazrat Nizamuddin Awliya whose greatness is evident till date. My sincere gratitude to all those who helped bring this Preface to light. My parents and wife, the silent players in my life In the name of Allah. who have lent me their love, prayers and patience for my creative endeavors. These notes are based my travel across the four Indian states of Delhi, Punjab, Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan during the early months of year 2010. I had posted them live on the micro-blogging network, Twitter, for the sake of convenience. This book is a liberal compilation from such notes which were earlier composed within the limits of the 140 characters. Right from the inception of the idea of its publication, many well-wishers have sincerely criticized this micro travelogue concept due to their admiration for the length and depth of my earlier travel experience, The Cool Breeze From Hind (2006). But keeping in mind the velocity of the travel and the numerous places and personalities associated with it, I hope my friends would embrace it with open arms. Delhi and the neighboring states have played a key role in the development of the religio-political fabric of the Indian subcontinent. It has produced political strategists, military conquerors, Sufi saints and artists of world class brilliance. My curiosity to visit them, after having read them Mission Nizamuddin Mission Nizamuddin Day 11-08/02/2010 .............................................22 CONTENTS Day 12-09/02/2010 .............................................24 Day 0-28/01/2010....................................................1 Day 13-10/02/2010 ..............................................26 Day 01-29/01/2010..................................................3 Day 14-10/02/2010 ..............................................28 Day 02-30/01/2010..................................................8 Day 03-31/01/2010................................................10 Day 04-01/02/2010................................................11 Day 05-02/02/2010 ...............................................14 Day 06-03/02/2010 ..............................................15 Day 07-04/02/2010 ..............................................16 Day 08-05/02/2010 ..............................................19 Day 09-06/02/2010 .............................................20 Day 10-07/02/2010...............................................21 Mission Nizamuddin 1 Mission Nizamuddin 2 On arrival, everything went smooth, by the grace of Allah. Waiting for the hotel pick-up, consumed machine- Day 0 made tea and croissants, of chocolate actually. 28/01/2010 Without a sweater, I was still feeling warm. My co- travelers removed theirs with a grin. Three hours to board the flight for Mission Nizamuddin. Filed papers for a SIM card with moderate credits. As usual, reached a little late to the airport. To make New number alive and kicking immediately. things more challenging, after getting the boarding pass, The cabby arrived and we were on the move. He realized we didn’t bring mobile chargers. talked and talked, so we didn’t need radio in the car. He Rushed home again to bring the forgotten items, this called himself Kakesh Sharma or something like that. time defying all the permitted limits of speed and time. Brought up in Chandni Chowk, he advised not to miss At the check-in counter, my friend was stopped due the Kareem Restaurant near Jama Masjid for its authentic to a mistaken ID problem of dual nature. One, his passport and ethnic dishes. photo and his real person mismatched. Two, another illegal He later shifted to politics between the Nation and its name matching his in the emigration system! neighbors. He said it’s all a game of the vested interests. The last call for our flight was announced, and my friend The people are of one heart. was still to be cleared for the fault that wasn’t his. It’s high Arrived in the hotel and the attendants were very time someone made a universal serial number for everyone humble in their reception. But it’s Allah’s job to judge on the planet. hearts, not mine Finally boarded the flight on time. On board, met Dined at an outlet called ‘Shudh’, pure and clean. another old school friend, Vinod, heading to Delhi for a Vegetarian actually. The mushroom soup was more than family function. We exclaimed to each other ‘very long good. time huh’? The most common baggage of all were the sweaters they wore: an early physical preparation for the psychological feel of cold in Delhi. Mission Nizamuddin 3 Mission Nizamuddin 4 An old lady in pauper bought food and gave to the cats around her to eat. She hugged the cats and fondled Day 01 them. Can’t say further on her state of mind. But her generosity was undoubtedly angelic. 29/01/2010 Face-styling services are rendered live. The barber At early morn, the cold had spread its wings. After shaves in the open air. Economists may call this space- prayers, headed to the café opposite the Markaz Masjid. optimization. Geared up for meetings. The publisher of The Cool Breeze From Hind, my earlier travelogue, was in Enter Jama Masjid. Passed through the metal detectors. Daryaganj area close to Jama Masjid. What a nuisance due to terror-lovers. By His Grace, I heard no alarm. We set our first trip to Jama Masjid in the Auto. Squeezed ourselves and let go the roller-coaster ride. What if the detectors were for the worshippers’ hearts? The intentions I mean… God forbid, only few would make Roads here followed the Darwinian theory of Survival it inside. of the Fittest, literally only. That meant, survival of those fit in size. Easy for small vehicles, bad for buses and the like. People of all religious textbooks sit outside the Masjid. Communal harmony is well preserved here. Laundries here are generally open air. India as a massive powerhouse lives on power optimization; even solar energy In we enter to the prayer area. We had a mild argument is not wasted. Allah bless Delhi for such. with an old admin staff for camera-related fees. But he didn’t warn us as before. School kids are stuffed into cycle rickshaws, not a sweet scene to witness. But they enjoy it, nevertheless. Humans We paid Rs.200/- and later realized he needed more can find joy, even in pain. considering the condition of the Masjid for which it was really built. We arrived at the Gate 1 of Jama Masjid at 1130. Walked around the streets looking for a stationary item. Ancient in terms of architecture, the ghost of Mughal memories still hovered around. I could feel its pain. Crowd is too tiny a word to describe the massive numbers of people around. But everyone moved: cars, We sat in the first hall. In entered the Imam with some people and even animals. bodyguards. Don’t know why he needed them. Was he Mission Nizamuddin 5 Mission Nizamuddin 6 about to lead the prayer or warfare? We reached Dargah minutes before Maghrib23, so I The Khutba hardly made sense to heart or ear. Both hurried in fear of the prayer deadline. were unfulfilling. The mic system could be (read as should First came in line the grave of Amir Khusroo, the favorite be) better. disciple of the Hazrat. What an affinity they had! Like Rs.200/- charged was no good, rather not spent well. Tabrez, like Rumi! Maybe they need to have better auditors. Allah knows The case of a Communist would be really boring.