© Lonely Planet Publications 119 W e s t e r n B h u t a n Whether you arrive by air at Paro or by road at Phuentsholing, your first impression of Bhutan is one of stepping into a world that you thought existed only in storybooks or your imagination. Vertical prayer flags flutter in the breeze and men dressed in a traditional gho WESTERN BHUTAN (tunic) and Argyle socks stroll past yellow-roofed shrines and wooden slate-roofed houses. It soon becomes clear that you are well off the beaten path of mass tourism. As with the rest of country, western Bhutan is a collection of valleys. The remote Haa valley in the far west is separated from the Paro valley by the 3810m Cheli La. The relatively built-up Thimphu valley to the east is divided from the historical centres of Punakha and Wangdue Phodrang by the 3140m Dochu La. East of here the rugged Black Mountain range forms an even greater barrier that separates western Bhutan from the rest of the country. North of here, the upper valleys are trekking territory, leading to the sacred peak of Jhomolhari, the Tibetan border and the fascinating and remote regions of Laya and Gasa. To the south are the lush foothills and the all-important road to the Indian border at Phuentsholing. This is the region of Bhutan that most tourists see and for good reason. It’s the heartland of the Drukpa people, home to the only airport, the capital and the largest, oldest and most spectacular dzongs in the kingdom. Whether it’s the beginning of your trip or the all of your trip, it’s a spectacular introduction to a magical land. HIGHLIGHTS Visit the spectacular dzongs of Paro ( p122 ), Wangdue Phodrang ( p149 ) and Punakha ( p145 ). Admire the rhododendrons and mountain views on an early-morning drive to the Dochu La ( p134 ) Immerse yourself in Bhutanese culture and history at Paro’s National Museum ( p124 ) Spot black-necked cranes or just do some great hiking in the remote Phobjikha valley ( p152 ) Hike uphill to the dramatic cliff-hanging Tiger’s Nest ( p128 ), Bhutan’s most famous Punakha sight Tiger's Nest Chimi Lhakang Kyichu Lhakhang Wangdue Phodrang Make a pilgrimage to the Kyichu Dochu Paro La Phobjikha Lhakhang ( p127 ), one of Bhutan’s oldest Haa Valley Valley and most beautiful temples Explore little-visited monasteries and hermitages in the Haa valley ( p133 ) Be blessed with a 10-inch penis, if only for a day, at Chimi Lhakhang ( p145 ), the monastery of the Divine Madman! 120 WESTERN BHUTAN lonelyplanet.com WESTERN BHUTAN C H I N A T I B E T Wagye La Ya La Masang Gang Teri Gang (5475m) (7165m) (7300m) (6090m) Tsenda Gangchhenta Gang (6840m) (7100m) (6965m) Tseja Gang Tsomo La (6833m) Gangla Laya Togtsherkhagi Chhu Keche Karchung La La Gieu Gang Sinche Army Post (7200m) La Tang Chhu Chhu Bahitung Chhu Koina Jhari La Bari La Mo Chhu Gasa G A S A WESTERN BHUTAN Gasa Tsachhu Tserim Kang (6789m) Goyul I N D I A Jichu Drakye (6989m) Kang Lingzhi Bum ( S I K K I M ) Jhomolhari 2 (6942m) Damji (6526m) Si Chhu Jhomolhari (7314m) Nyile La (5661m) Jangothang Tashithang Yeli La P U N A K H A Thangthangka Bhonte T H I M P H U Khamsum Yuelley Tremo La La Wang Chhu Namgyal P A R O Chorten Rimchhu Mo ChhuPho Chhu Dawakha Thombu La Yambesa Zele La Shing Karap Cheri Goemba (5672m) Tango Goemba Punakha Dodina Paro Chhu Gunitsawa Do Chhu Talo Goemba Khuruthang Pangri Zampa Chumbi Valley Dalay Goemba Chimi Dechenchoeling Thinleygang Lhakhang Phajoding Hongtsho Metshina Lobesa Drukgyel Dzong Rinchengang Chhuzomsa Gom La Taktshang Jili THIMPHU Dochu La Dzong (3140m) Lungchuzekha Wangdue Yatung Chhundu Kyichu Simtokha Dzong Goemba Phodrang Chhu Paro Namseling Trashigang Lhakhang Goemba Tashila arpo Punak Damthang Gida Bondey Shaba Talakha Goemba Juneydrak Khasadrapchhu Hitsho Chhu Nathu-La Kharibje Langm Talakha Tsang Haa Cheli La (3810m) Isuna Tamchhog Lhakhang Peak Sinche La Chhu Amo Chhu (4280m) Jyenkhana Chhuzom Genekha Doka La H A A Nago Dobji Dzong Bietakha Tshongkha Panyalabtsa Gayshina Thadra Ney Lhakhang Chapcha Lana Chhu Haa Chhu Tanalung Bunakha S A M T S E Torsa Chhu Wang Chhu D A G A N A Jaldakha Chhu Jaldakha Tsimasham Dagana Dungna Chhukha Daga Chhu Sibsu Dorokha C H H U K H A Torsa Chhu Dagapela Chengmari Gedu Jumja Samtse Tala Phuentsholing Rinchending Chhu Raigye Chhu Puna Tsang Jaigon Kharbandi Goemba I N D I A Sinchula ( W E S T B E N G A L ) To Siliguri; Darjeeling Kalikhola.