Getting around Paphos Downtown The resort town of Paphos, a favourite with the tens of thousands of tourists who flock to the Mediterranean island of Cyprus every year, is divided into two areas: the residential new town and Kato Paphos, sited on the ancient Greek town and loosely considered as the ‘downtown’ area. The famous archaeological sites documenting Kato Paphos, most of the hotels, tavernas and other visitor facilities including a marina, bars and music venues are located here, with Kato Paphos now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Legendarily founded at the time of the fall of Troy by the Arcadian chief Agapenor on his way to the famous siege, the town became a major trading post in ancient times due to its sheltered harbour. Famous visitors in those far-off days included St Paul, with Paphos later mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles, and the young Titus, later to become a Roman emperor, who showed great interest in the town’s history and antiquities. In his later writings, Titus expressed surprise that the only monument to the goddess Aphrodite in her temple was a strange pyramidal stone. Nowadays, thousands of visitors gaze with the same awe at the still-standing Temple of Aphrodite. Getting there The only practical way to arrive on Cyprus is by air to the small Paphos International Airport set to the town’s east, 10kms away. A good number of charter and low-cost flights serve the facility from all over Europe including the UK, with scheduled services also provided by national flag carrier Cyprus Airways as well as British Airways. This little airport’s passenger throughput attests to the popularity of the destination, handling over 1.75 million arrivals and departures every year. Its recently-built new terminal tends to become overcrowded in the summer months as a result. Paphos downtown is small enough to get around on foot but for trips to other spots on the island, car hire is the best option. Climate The climate of Cyprus, in general, is classified as Mediterranean sub-tropical, with variations according to altitude and closeness to the sea. At sea level, summer highs sit around 30˚C, with July and August’s high humidity levels adding a sticky feel to the heat and night-time temperatures falling by around 5 to 8˚C. Spring and autumn are good times to be here, with daytime temperatures varying between 20 and 24˚C, cooler at night and with less humidity than in the high season. January is the coldest month, with average daytime highs of 17˚C – hardly worth calling ‘cold’. Rainfall on the coast only falls in significant quantities during mid- November through to March, with the remainder of the year dry. Once in a long while, a sprinkling of snow from the high mountains falls on downtown Paphos. Culture The spirit of Greek culture is as alive on Cyprus as it is in the rest of Greece, and involves a massive sense of pride in the ancient Greek patterns of democracy expressed in a love for the era’s monuments and Greek tradition. The Greek Orthodox Church plays a strong part in the island’s culture with its traditional saints’ day festivals. For the rest, dance, the folk music of the island and a love of good food and even more good wine makes a riotous and joyful combination at any celebratory event. www.carrentals.co.uk ________________________________________________________________________________ Eating out For traditional and delicious Greek food, the logical and only answer is a local taverna not necessarily dedicated to just serving tourists. Although a great many tourist eateries are found in Paphos’s downtown area, a search in the back streets for a taverna with mainly Cypriot customers should do the trick. This is home cooking at its best, using fresh ingredients and often not bothering with a menu. Diners wander into the kitchen and select from what’s bubbling on the stove or under the grill. Mezes – the delicious mix of almost everything from olives through taramasalata and tzatziki, tiny slices of octopus, hummus, kebabs and much more, washed down with the local retsina and served with fresh bread, is the ideal meal. Sightseeing Most of the ancient sites here are located in Kato Paphos and are easy to get around on foot. There is much to thrill the history-lover in Paphos Archaeological Site, the 4th century BC ancient city on the western side of Kato Paphos, and outside the downtown area are other ancient delights such as the so-called Tombs of the Kings. This magnificent necropolis was in use from the 3rd century BC. Several beautiful churches and a number of museums are set around or just outside the town. Attractions Paphos Archaeological Park This treasure-house of ancient buildings and landmarks was originally the ancient city of Neo Paphos, founded 2,300 years ago. Originally surrounded by massive protective walls, its stone-paved streets were planned on a rectangular basis. A devastating earthquake in the 4th century AD did major damage, resulting in the city’s decline. Two villas, the House of Theseus and the House of Dionysus have stunning Roman mosaics. Entry is €1.70. Aghia Paraskevi This grand Byzantine church is simply the most beautiful religious building in Paphos, with its six glorious domes and a magnificent series of 15th century sacred frescoes. Located in the Geriskipou area on the eastern edge of town, Aghia Paraskevi is a favourite with local people for its intensely spiritual atmosphere. Admission is free. Paphos Castle Built in the 12th century during the Byzantine era, the castle is a famous landmark of the town, often pictured on tourism posters and literature and set right on the outer edge of the harbour to protect the town from pirates. In the 13th century it was rebuilt and extended by the Lusignans, with the Venetians adding to it in the 16th century. In spite of all the improvements, Ottoman forces captured Paphos and its castle, causing the structure to be rebuilt yet again. Its stark rectangular outline dominates the entrance to the harbour and the square in front of its entrance is a favourite for its events and festivals. Entrance fees to most of the sites and museums are around €1.70. Paphos museums Paphos is well-endowed with 12 varied museums, giving winter visitors a great deal to enjoy on even the dullest and rainiest day. From the Paphos Archaeological Museum through the Geroskiplou Fokeloric Museum, the Byzantine Museum, the Ethnographic Museum and the house where Archbishop Makarios once lived, now a museum to his life, there’s a lot to learn about this fascinating town. For a different museum experience, the two museums specialising in the traditional crafts of weaving and basket-making are well worth a visit. There is a nominal charge for entry to most Paphos museums. Markets and handicrafts While perhaps not quite qualifying as sightseeing destinations to the purist traveller, for most of the rest of us www.carrentals.co.uk ________________________________________________________________________________ local markets are an essential part of a destination’s culture, as are local handicrafts. Cyprus, including Paphos, is rich in its traditional hand-made artefacts, shown in local markets and shops. The town is famous for its lace, crochet work, pottery, silverware and leather goods. Paphos jewellery has been made in similar styles here since the pre-Hellenistic Greek Mycenean period, and is lovely, whether in gold or silver, with the filigree gold pieces especially fine. Panaghia Chrissopolitissa Built in the Orthodox style over the foundations of an early Byzantine basilica, this little 13th century church has a charm all of its own. Within its grounds is the famous St Paul’s Pillar where, legend tells us, St Paul the Apostle was whipped by order of the local Roman governor, who later converted from Mithraism to Christianity. This is a place of peace and beauty, with the remains of a few fine floor mosaics. Entry is free. Excursions Beaches of Cyprus The island is as famous for its beaches as for its ancient Mediterranean heritage and its lively nightlife. All around its coastline are beaches both busy with every facility for water sports and dining or remote, deserted and perfect for a private swim and a peaceful day out with a picnic. Some of the best known for facilities are Coral Beach and the sands between Cape Drepanon and Paphos, and for peace and quiet the small rocky coves between Cape Arnaoutis and Lara are where to head for. The most famous of all is Aphrodite Beach, where the goddess is believed to have emerged from the sea in all her beauty. Troodos Mountains The great Troodos mountain range runs the length of the island and is home to traditional villages, glorious scenery, secluded mountain streams and waterfalls, tiny hidden churches and the cool air of the mountains. Ecotourist heaven and a favourite subject of Cypriot poets over hundred of years, here are vineyards, fragrant pine forests, soaring cliffs and rocky outcrops and the cries of thousands of birds. Hiking and trekking are little short of magic here and an evening meal in a little local taverna is the end to a perfect day. Chrysorroyiatissa Monastery Founded in the 12th century and rebuilt in 1770, this Greek Orthodox monastery holds a fine collection of religious artefacts created in precious metals and other materials, including a stunning icon decorated with gold and silver and depicting the Virgin Mary and Christ. Fine frescoes are here also, and the monks are known for their vintage wine, reputedly the best in Cyprus.