SKI & SNOW OFF-PISTE DESTINATIONS Piste to powder Laura French ventures off-piste on a trip to Italy’s best-kept Alpine secret, Cervinia @laurafrench121 uckling up my ‘ABS’ prospect of us venturing off-piste the village with its gloriously fuss was about when I ventured Bbackpack, transceiver as per the plan. snow-speckled, jagged peak. And off-piste the following day with concealed surreptitiously Admittedly, by this point I feel I was determined to master this the group and found myself beneath my ski jacket and airbag ever-so-slightly more Bridget challenging art. gliding through some of the toggle slung over my shoulder, I Jones than James Bond, but I’m Our introductory session deepest, freshest, softest powder feel a little like James Bond off not going to let it stop me, and began with a briefing on how to I’ve ever come across. It felt on a secret mission in the Alps. after a few haphazard runs, I use our flashing transceivers – a like skiing through fairy dust, That’s until I fly off the chairlift start to find my ski legs again. small beeping device used to snow sparkling underfoot and 20 minutes later and go hurtling It’s time to hit the powder. help skiers find each other in sun glaring up above from a sky headfirst into the face of our the event of an avalanche – and so blue you’d be forgiven for guide Andreas, who starts to look w OFF-PISTE ended with a warning not to thinking you could swim in it. a little more concerned about the I was on a ski trip with Inghams accidentally nudge the toggle to At other points, the snow was in Cervinia, a small and our left “especially on a chairlift, a little icier, with all four of us relatively quiet winter resort because the airbag might inflate”. toppling over with comically in northern Italy, set at the Cue visions of me blowing up elephantine gestures foot of the Matterhorn, balloon-like several hundred feet that would have which dominates over the Italian Alps. made Tinky Fortunately that didn’t happen, Winky and I soon realised what all the TOP TIP Find out more about Cervinia and the Aosta Valley at aosta-valley.co.uk 21 September 2017 travelweekly.co.uk 61 SKI & SNOW OFF-PISTE DESTINATIONS look graceful, but it provided a an easy, flat and happily tranquil w STAY thrill that had us screeching for blue to a steeper, significantly Back in the town itself, the vibe several minutes, and buzzing for We toppled over with more adrenaline-pumping black. is relaxed and relatively quiet. It several hours, afterwards. Both are surrounded by the skews towards older groups and As that suggests, conditions comically elephantine same jaw-dropping scenery: occasional families rather than need to be just right for off-piste gestures that would endless layers of white-washed party animals, with traditional skiing, so there’s no guarantee have made Tinky mountains and Christmas card- restaurants, souvenir shops and clients will be able to do it – we Winky look graceful worthy pine trees, which pretty quaint bars serving indulgent got only an hour or so over a much sums up the whole region. espresso martinis and génépi – a whole weekend – but when they And those who tire of skiing herbal liqueur native to the Alps. can, it’s sublime. once they get to the Zermatt We stayed at Chalet Hotel side can hop on a scenic train Dragon, a three-and-a-half- w ON-PISTE for picture-perfect views and a diamond hotel exclusive to For those less keen on the off- well-deserved sit-down. Inghams, with 12 rooms and a piste side of things, Cervinia also On that note, there are lively pub downstairs. The bar has plenty of ordinary slopes. At plenty of mountainside cafes does mean it can get a little noisy LEFT: Chalet Hotel Dragon 2,050m in altitude (and 3,480m and restaurants dotted around at night with loud music, but for at the top lift), the white stuff FAR LEFT: Lunch on the slopes for those in need of a rest. My older groups (it’s not suitable for is almost guaranteed, so the favourite was Chalet Etoile, a children under 12) wanting a bit season is happily long. It begins huge quintessentially Alpine of low-key après-ski, it’s a good in November and lasts until early beginners and intermediates, snowboarders looking to practise for a bigger challenge can head hut on the Cervinia side, where suggestion. There’s a weekly May. There’s even summer skiing and they’re pleasingly empty their skills, alongside a good kids’ over to Zermatt, set on the Swiss Scandinavian meets local Italian: schedule of evening activities, up on the glacier from the end of compared with the larger resorts offering, with nursery slopes and side. Getting there involves think reindeer tagliatelle, giant from bar crawls to pub quizzes, June through to late August. you’ll find in France. inflatables offering a less intense various scenic gondola trips and langoustines and seafood ravioli and it’s good value, with a daily The whole area is scattered There’s also a 4,000-metre- alternative to the real deal. peaceful runs along quiet, snow- served in a satisfyingly thick buffet breakfast, afternoon tea with gentle blue and red long snowpark designed Cervinia is a little more limited covered roads, and there are sauce that tasted all the better and evening meal (canapés and runs, which makes it ideal for for freestyle skiers and for trickier runs, but those looking several routes available – from after a morning on the slopes. wine included). The hotel 62 travelweekly.co.uk 21 September 2017 21 September 2017 travelweekly.co.uk 63 DESTINATIONS OFF-PISTE SKI & SNOW RIGHT: Y Skiing in the Aosta Valley Off-piste ski resorts photograph BELOW: Louise Newton, Inghams’ group head of marketing, es Cervinia recommends her favourite resorts for off-piste action L wa don Les Deux Alpes, France: Ideal for all levels of skier and snowboarder, Les Deux Alpes ; offers high-altitude skiing with magnificent scenery from the top of the glacier. romanzi Skiers can also link up to La Grave, a famous off-piste ski area nearby. Arlberg, Austria (St Anton, St Christoph, Lech and Zurs): Known as ‘the birthplace enrico of skiing’, Arlberg is the largest inter-linked ski area in Austria, offering more than 125 miles of marked off-piste routes. PICTURES: Verbier, Switzerland: Spanning four valleys, Verbier is famed for some of the best lift-accessible off-piste skiing in Europe. Its highest peak, Mont Fort, is the freeride capital of Europe, and every March the resort hosts Xtreme Verbier, the finals of the Freeride World Tour. Champoluc, Italy: Unspoilt Champoluc, in the Monterosa ski area, is a haven for those looking to take their skiing and snowboarding off the beaten path, and is especially suited to advanced skiers and snowboarders. is also handily located right by the Book it: Seven nights at Xtra Chalet slopes, with the nearest chairlift a Dragon in Cervinia, Italy, costs from five-minute walk away. Endless layers of white- £789 in January 2018, with Inghams. For a higher-end option, suggest the The price includes buffet breakfasts, four-star Punta Maquignaz, an Alpine- washed mountains and afternoon tea and five-course evening style chalet decked out with wood- Christmas card-worthy meals with wine for six days, plus TIPS FOR panelled rooms, antique furnishings pine trees pretty much flights to Turin and transfers. Ski and GOING and hunting trophies. There’s also a sum up the whole region snowboard tuition can be pre-booked 4 cocktail bar, à la carte restaurant and for three or six half-days from £123, OFF-PISTE spa, so clients who’d rather lie down and off-piste tuition can be booked for a massage than carve their way locally from ¤320 for up to two people Skiers and through the powder can do just that – for a day, including a guide (lift pass snowboarders not that they’ll want to, if they manage and safety equipment cost extra). need to be of an to master this whole off-piste thing. inghams.co.uk/ski-holidays advanced level to venture off-piste Check weather conditions and hire a transceiver, shovel and probe before setting off Opt for wide powder skis to stay above the snow Ski with an experienced guide and take avalanche training before heading out 64 travelweekly.co.uk 21 September 2017.