ALL SAKS THEFT RING WAL-MART’S WAY ABOUT FIVE PEOPLE WERE INDICTED IN AN IDENTITY-THEFT SCHEME THE RETAIL GIANT IS LEADING THE CHARGE IN ELSA AUTHORITIES SAID WAS THE MADE IN AMERICA A NEW BIOGRAPHY EXAMINES THE MANY AN INSIDE JOB. PAGE 2 SIDES OF THE FAMED DESIGNER. PAGE 14 RESURGENCE. PAGE 12 COURTING CONTROVERSY Margiela’s New Man: Rosso Taps Galliano By MILES SOCHA PARIS — When Renzo Rosso acquired Maison Martin Margiela in 2002, it was described as a wedding of WWD fashion’s Greta Garbo with Harpo Marx. On Monday, Rosso surprised the fashion world again by appointing John Galliano, one of fashion’s TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2014 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY most fl amboyant and controversial fi gures, to take over the creative direction of Margiela, founded by an intensely secretive Belgian designer. The appointment telegraphed Rosso’s daring approach to the fashion business and raised questions about how one of the industry’s great romantics might interpret a house built on avant-garde ideas like deconstruction. It confi rmed widespread market speculation that Galliano was headed to the Paris-based company, de- spite recent denials during Milan Fashion Week by Rosso, whose group, OTB, controls Margiela via a sub- Risqué Renzo sidiary called Neuf. Rosso “Margiela is ready for a new charismatic cre- ative soul,” said Rosso, president of OTB. “John Business Galliano is one of the great- est, undisputed talents of In her spring collection, Stella all time — a unique, excep- tional couturier for a mai- McCartney took the ultimate in son that always challenged cozy — a sweater and innovated the world stretched into of fashion. I look forward to his return to create that a dress — and SPRING 2015 fashion dream that only he gave it a sensual can create and wish him to John here fi nd his new home.” Galliano makeover TREND Galliano, 53, has been sit- with daring, COLLECTIONS ting on the sidelines since being ousted from Christian hip-exposing Dior and his signature fash- cutouts and fl irty, ion house in 2011. It is un- thigh-high slits. derstood he will take over the design leadership of all Other designers embraced the Margiela lines, including strategic cutout, too. For more, couture and the women’s and men’s ready-to-wear. see pages 4 and 5. He is expected to show his fi rst designs for the house in January during Paris Couture Week. The development marks the return of one of con- temporary fashion’s most acclaimed talents, absent from the runways following racist and anti-Semitic outbursts that precipitated one of the most spectacu- lar fl ameouts in recent history. It also represents something of an about-face for Margiela, whose Belgian founder was often described as the industry’s invisible man for his Greta Garbo- like ways. Following his retirement in 2009, the house left an anonymous team to carry on his legacy, stead- fastly refusing to identify any its members. Prized for his ultrafeminine, historically inspired designs, and a particular penchant for bias-cut gowns, Galliano is hardly an obvious choice for a house known for cleft-toed boots, deconstructed fashions and all- white stores. Yet the British fashion maverick has wide experi- ence designing different kinds of collections, includ- ing more casual ranges for women and men under his now-defunct Galliano second line, known for its news- paper prints, distressed leathers and denim. Despite the outcry that precipitated Galliano’s downfall at Dior, early industry reactions to his ap- pointment at Margiela were mainly positive. “Wow,” said Joan Burstein, founder and owner of Browns in London, who famously bought the entire collection Galliano produced upon graduating from Central Saint Martins in 1984. “Those who have nothing against [Galliano] will be happy he’s back in the fashion world, and those who aren’t happy won’t be happy. Browns wishes him happiness as well as great success and we will follow whatever he does with great interest,” Burstein added. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGES 6 AND 7 6 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2014 Rosso Taps Galliano for Margiela {Continued from page one} “I think this will revolutionize the brand,” said Galliano fall 2009. Averyl Oates, fashion director at Galeries Lafayette. “Although controversial, there is no doubt that Galliano has great energy and is an undisputed visionary. He has a wide repertoire even if he is better known for his theatrical flair, and no doubt they will find a way to bridge his style with the fa- miliar signature deconstruction of the Margiela house,” she added. Jonathan Newhouse, chairman and chief ex- ecutive officer of Condé Nast International, said, “I am delighted that John is returning to the fashion world at Margiela. He is one of the great design talents of our day. He is in terrific form and it will be exciting to see what he creates.” Last year, the publishing executive told British Vogue that after Galliano went into re- covery, he had formed a friendship with the designer and had “opened some doors to the Jewish community,” introducing him to Jewish leaders and Rabbi Barry Marcus from London’s Central Synagogue. Maria Luisa Poumaillou, fashion director at Printemps, said she was intrigued to see what the pairing of Galliano with Margiela would bring. · “It’s the most· interesting thing I’ve seen in a long time,” she said. “It’s not immediately obvious what they have in common, except for talent.” She said enough time had passed since Galliano’s firing for the industry and consum- ers to forgive and move on. “I thought it was the ugliest sacrifice of a great talent that I’ve ever seen, so for me, wher- ever he’s back, he’s more than welcome. I’m very happy for John,” Poumaillou said. She saluted Rosso’s “guts” and said the de- cision was a good fit for the brand. “The most conceptual of all fashion houses fell into the hands of the man who built Diesel, so why Dior couture John Galliano is…a unique, spring 1997. exceptional couturier for a maison that always challenged and innovated the world of fashion. — RENZO ROSSO, OTB John Galliano Galliano Galliano’s debut ready-to-wear fur collection 1998. Dior spring 2000. spring 2003. shouldn’t it today tap the greatest liv- have more openness and freedom to While long cloaked in mystery ing couturier, who is unemployed?” express his sensitivity and his talent.” and steeped in conceptual high- she asked. “[Rosso] has already pulled OTB noted the appointment of a mindedness, Margiela ultimately it off. We are all talking about Margiela, “visionary, non-conformist” talent took on a more commercial bent fol- which will stop being a niche brand in would give “significance to the icon- lowing the Rosso investment, open- ··order to become front-page news.” oclastic heritage of Margiela, and ing boutiques in more established Armand Hadida, founder of Paris new impulse to its exciting future.” neighborhoods, expanding its offer concept store L’Eclaireur, said he The appointment of a star de- of accessories and branching out bought Galliano’s first collections signer like Galliano also suggests into lifestyle categories such as and was excited to have him back. that Rosso is keen to bring more at- home decor. “I like the idea because that is tention to Margiela — and willing to Market sources estimate the what you expect from fashion and risk a possible backlash. company generates about 100 mil- from players like Renzo Rosso — Galliano was not immediately lion euros annually, or $126 million it’s to shake things up, to give them available for comment. at current exchange. It operates a second lease of life. I think that According to retailers, Margiela about 50 directly owned stores. without Renzo Rosso, Margiela management has put the develop- Upon Margiela’s final exit, the would have closed down,” he said. ment focus on its secondary line company explored the possibility of 9 AND FALL 2010 BY DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE; MAÎTRE; DOMINIQUE BY 2010 FALL AND 9 ANNI GIANNONI ANNI Y PATRICK DEMARCHELIER; GALLIANO FALL 2009 2009 FALL GALLIANO DEMARCHELIER; PATRICK Y The retailer, who is of Moroccan- MM6 in recent years as buzz faded naming a new creative director, with GALLIANO CLAISSE; OLIVIER BY 1997 SPRING URE Jewish origin, said it was time to let around its top lines. Raf Simons and Haider Ackermann bygones be bygones. “No one has the Rosso’s OTB swept in and bought among those approached. authority to judge anyone whatsoever. a majority stake in Margiela in 2002, More recently, the likes of former We all make mistakes and it’s part of one of series of acquisitions aimed Céline designer Ivana Omazic had our journey. The important thing is at building a multibrand Italian cycled in and out, with London-based to know your mistakes and to learn to group. More recent investments in- Marios Schwab brought in recently correct them, and I guarantee you that clude Viktor & Rolf and Marni. as a secret consultant. Industry in- John Galliano has done that,” he said. At the time of Margiela’s 20th- siders were familiar with other key “I think we have spoken about it anniversary fashion show in Paris talents in the maison, particularly enough and today, I am thrilled and in 2009, the founder had gradually Christopher Booth in men’s wear and also very curious because that is what reduced his day-to-day involvement Matthieu Blazy, who exited the house drives us and gives us pleasure in in the company, working mainly Oct.