LEGENDARY MOUNTAIN The Brocken in Harz National Park THE BROCKEN I 1 Dear National Park guests 1 Views of the Harz foothills Do you want to know why the spruce on Brocken are barely From board 1 you see lying in front of you not only Renne- taller than 5 metres, when the Brocken Railway first reached ckenberg, Hohnekamm and Jägerkopf, but also Wernigerode the mountain top, or when the National Park was established? Castle (13 km) and Halberstadt (32 km). Then this brochure should accompany you during your visit to When you look closely you will notice that the Harz foothills the highest mountain in northern Germany. are characterized by intensive industrial and agricultural use, Even if you have chosen one of the more than 300 foggy days while forestry predominates in the Harz. Ordered, equal- in the year, the approximately 1.6 km long circular walk offers height treetops in geometric areas show where natural forests much to see. On a clear, dry day the maximum visibility is at were converted into managed spruce forests long before the least 230 km. designation of the National Park. However, original nature Numbers guide you along the path and could survive where the economic activities of man could not, through this booklet (on the walk, look for especially at high altitudes or on the steep slopes of the valleys. white numerals on a dark wooden sign). For a plan of the Brocken, see page 12. 2 Brocken Railway Please contact us if you want to know more about Harz Nati- As early as 1899 the 100 cm gauge Brocken Railway onal Park and Brocken. Meet us on top of the Brocken or on was laid from Drei Annen Hohne via Schierke to the Brocken. the paths there. It negotiates an ascent of 588 metres on the 16 km route. Of course you can also join our guided walks on the Brocken, From 1961 only supply trains of the GDR border troops which start every day at 12:15 at the entrance of the weather reached the summit. station (May to October) or at the entrance of the Brocken- Since 1991, steam locomotives have been rolling again carrying haus (November to April). holiday traffic to the Brocken. Thus, the railway could be Your National Park Rangers integrated into the concept of visitor guidance to the Brocken through the Harz National Park. Since the train track passes Brocken profile • At 1,141 metres above sea level, the highest mountain in northern Germany • The only German central mountain peak with a natural forest line • Heath vegetation probably since the Ice Age • Climate like the Alps at 1,800-2,500 metres above sea level • Annual average temperature is about 4°C • Mystic mountain: scene of Walpurgis Night in Goethe‘s „Faust“. 2 I THE BROCKEN THE BROCKEN I 3 6 1 Osterwieck (20 km) 7 Hakel (37 km) 2 Ilsenburg (9 km) 8 Quedlinburg (36 km) 3 Huy (32 km) 9 Elbingerode (13 km) 4 Magdeburg (79 km) 10 Halle (100 km) 5 Halberstadt (32 km) 11 Eisleben (71 km), 6 Wernigerode (13 km) Harzgerode (41 km) 4 I THE BROCKEN THE BROCKEN I 5 through some of the In board 2 you can most sensitive areas see the natural part of the National of the experimental Park, the National plot. Studies on the Park Authority is restoration of the committed to close Brocken plateau cooperation with mainly take place the Brocken Rail- here. way for an environ- The splendour of mentally friendly the present Brocken operation. Only by acting together can potential damage to Garden is only natural resources be averted. possible through in- tensive professional maintenance. Since the beginning, there 3 Brocken Garden were several periods The show and experimental garden on the Brocken was foun- when Brocken Gar- ded in 1890 by Prof. Dr. Albert Peter, at that time Director of den was not at all or the Botanical Garden of the Georg August University of Göt- only very irregularly tingen. Until 1949, Göttingen University was responsible for maintained. This the Garden, then Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg, meant that at the and finally, after 1990, the National Park. start of work by Brocken Garden has always fulfilled conservation and research the National Park tasks, served educational purposes and been made available in 1990, only 97 of to Brocken visitors. To achieve these tasks and objectives, the the formerly 1,400 Garden was divided into experimental and show plots. The cultivated species show part of the garden is hard to see from the circular path. were detected. To- You are therefore cordially invited to a garden tour, which day, visitors to the starts on weekdays at the entrance of the meteorological sta- garden can marvel tion at 11:30 and 14:00 (mid-May to mid-October). On week- at more than 1,500 ends and public holidays, a visit is only possible in combinati- plant species from on with circular walks guided by a Ranger, beginning at 11:00 the high mountain and 13:00. In the Garden there are garden plants introduced regions of the world. Restoration of the Brocken summit from the high mountain regions of the world, among others. If and public relations work are essential tasks of this botanical you would like to know more, then you can get a booklet called garden. „Brocken Garden in the Harz“ from Brockenhaus. 6 I THE BROCKEN THE BROCKEN I 7 3 1 Elbingerode (13 km) 7 Bad Lauterberg (22 km) 2 Kyffhäuser (57 km) 8 Achtermannshöhe (5 km) 3 Wurmberg (5 km) 9 Großer Knollen (20 km) 4 Großer Inselsberg (106 km) 10 Meißner (85 km) 5 Wartburg (95 km) 11 Kahler Asten (163 km) 6 Ravensberg (21 km), Stöberhai (17 km) 8 I THE BROCKEN THE BROCKEN I 9 4 Devil’s Pulpit and Witches Altar 5 Dwarf shrub heath Inspired by the impressions of his first ascent of Brocken in Above the natural tree line on the Brocken there are the rem- winter 1777, Johann Wolfgang Goethe wrote the Walpurgis nants of the once large-scale dwarf shrub heath. The formation scene for „Faust“. On Walpurgis Night, the night of April of a closed forest after the last ice age was prevented here by 30th, according to tradition witches meet on „Blocksberg“ (the thin, nutrient-poor Brocken) at the Devil‘s Pulpit and the Witches Altar, where soils, a harsh climate, they wildly sweep away the last snow of the Brocken with their and especially by brooms. In the late 19th century this event became a kind of the wind – condi- festival. In 1896 the Bad Harzburg Walpurgisnacht society tions for the natural celebrated on the Brocken for the first time. Since 1901 there occurrence of these have been special Walpurgis trains of the Brocken railway. In heathland communi- the following years, Count Christian Ernst of Stolberg-Wer- ties. Typical species nigerode banned the Walpurgis celebrations because of the which grow on the „hellish noise and rough horseplay“. Brocken are Brocken anemone, Brocken hawkweed and Alpine hawkweed. The Today, Walpurgis Night is celebrated in communities in the presence of these light-demanding species is an indication of the National Park, such as Ilsenburg, Bad Harzburg, Schierke, lack of forest cover on the Brocken plateau since the end of the Sankt Andreasberg, Braunlage and Elend. last ice age about 10,000 years ago. The granite cliffs facing you remain unmolested by dancing witches and over the decades have become covered with the The existing heathlands were strongly influenced over time sensitive map lichen. by human use on the plateau. Over the centuries, grazing and tourism have encouraged the spread of dwarf shrubs such as On a clear day you have the good view shown in board 4. heather, bilberry and cranberry and changed the character of the Brocken. Although as a result of large-scale restoration the number of potential locations for Brocken anemone and Brocken hawkweed have increased again (both occur only here in Germany), they are highly endangered. Previously picked for „Brocken bouquets“, the natural heath- land vegetation is being threatened today because the nutrients contained in precipitation (e.g. 60 kg of nitrogen per hectare per year on Brocken summit) favour the spread of highly competiti- ve grasses such as Tufted Hairgrass and Hairy Reed Grass. 10 I THE BROCKEN THE BROCKEN I 11 1 Ravensberg (21 km), 5 Hoher Hagen (69 km), Stöberhai (17 km) Sonnenberg (8 km) 2 Achtermannshöhe (5 km) 6 Clausthal-Zellerfeld (19 km) 3 Meißner (85 km), Gleichen 7 Abbenstein (4 km) (54 km), Königsberg / Goe- 8 Langelsheim (25 km), themoor (2,5 km) Rammelsberg (16 km) 4 Kassel (98 km), Göttingen (56 km) 12 I THETHE BROCKEN THE BROCKEN I 13 9 8 10 7 6 5 11 4 1 2 3 14 I THE BROCKEN THE BROCKEN I 15 6 Harz National Park – legendary mountain wilderness 7 Natural forest line We associate the term „National Park“ with exotic animals and The closed spruce forest on the Brocken has a natural forest immense rainforests in Africa or America. And indeed the nati- line at about 1,100 metres above sea level. This northernmost onal park idea comes from America where, in 1872, Yellowstone natural forest line in Central Europe is particularly valuable National Park became the first of its kind to protect its natural for nature conservation. It is caused by the special climatic beauty. Since then about 5,000 precious natural landscapes world- conditions here on the highest Harz mountain. Among the li- wide have been protected with this highest distinction.