Master Thesis, Human Geography Supervision: Dr. Arnoud Lagendijk Second Reader: Freek De Haan FASHION IN GENTRIFYING URBAN SPACES: The case of the Fashion Quarter in Klarendal, Arnhem KONSTANTINOS GOURZIS Master student in Economic Geography Radboud University Nijmegen E-mail: [email protected] S 4226666 Konstantinos Gourzis August 2014 Graduate Research Master of Human Geography Nijmegen School of Management, Radboud University Nijmegen Konstantinos Gourzis s4226666 Under supervision of: Prof. Dr. A. Lagendijk Preface I would like to than Dustin, Dan and Martin, without whose help and insights this work would have been impossible. I would also like to thank my supervisor Dr. Lagendijk and Freek De Haan, the second reader, for their continuous imput. Abstract As indicated in the title, this thesis concerns gentrification in relation to fashion. The object of research was to find the role of fashion (as part of a growing symbolic economy) in the gentrifying urban space of Klarendal and relate it to Arnhem’s wider social and economic policies. Going beyond the city scale, we included in our research the factors of economic creativity and urban attractiveness as global tendencies. This topic was chosen because there is a gap in the literature regarding the connection of fashion and gentrification, even though many scholars (like Zukin) have approached the issue of fashion markets and transforming urban spaces. In this thesis we measured the presence of fashion in the neighborhood and parameterized its impact. After realizing fashion’s real presence and importance, we researched the ways it facilitates gentrification in Klarendal. The methods used were a combination of quantitative and qualitative research; that is, because we sought for a holistic approach in order to place Klarendal’s gentrification in a wider context. Primary sources included long semi-structured interviews, short structured interviews and observation. Secondary sources included municipal statistical data, policy documents and various texts and articles from newspapers and magazines. From those sources we conducted data analysis and discourse analysis. It was found that gentrification is implemented as a generalized urban policy, which in conjunction with city branding shaped Klarendal as it is today. Fashion functioned as an indictation of gentrification’s visual representation, and through fashion the changing of Klarendal’s aesthetics and identity was justified and facilitated. The findings are important because we pointed out the importance of aesthetics in gentrification and its practical implementation and we clarified the role of fashion in urban space as an economic activity, a vehicle to livability, a status enhancer and a creativity stimulator. Glossary ARCCI Arnhem’s Center for Creative economy and Innovation ArtEZ Arnhem, Enschede, and Zwolle’s Institute of the Arts CI Creative Industries DOCKS The trade association of Klarendal, St.Marten and Spoorhoek districts FnD Fashion and Design Horeca Catering industry Modekwartier The Fashion Quarter OV (Ontwerp/vormgeving) Industrial design Rijnstad The social organization in the field of welfare and social services in Arnhem SBI (Standaard Bedrijfs Indeling) Standard Industrial Classification Stipo Team for urban strategy and city development located in the Netherlands Volkshuisvesting Housing corporation located in Arnhem TABLE OF CONTENTS I. INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................. 1 General description of the topic ................................................................................... 1 Case Background .......................................................................................................... 2 Scientific Background.................................................................................................... 2 Thesis contribution ....................................................................................................... 4 Research relevance and current aspects ...................................................................... 4 Aim and objective of research ...................................................................................... 5 Research questions ....................................................................................................... 5 Research approach ....................................................................................................... 6 Methodology ................................................................................................................ 7 Thesis structure ............................................................................................................. 8 II. THEORY ......................................................................................................... 10 1. Suburbanization and the “reclaiming” of the inner city ................................... 10 The very early social ecologists ................................................................................... 10 The “Return” to the inner city ..................................................................................... 11 2. Gentrification going Global ............................................................................... 13 The first wave (1950s to 1970s) .................................................................................. 13 The second wave (1970s to 1980s) ............................................................................. 14 The third wave (from 1990s onwards) ........................................................................ 15 3. Theories of gentrification.................................................................................. 17 Neil Smith on Patterns of Investment in the Built Environment ................................. 17 David Ley on the Aesthetic Disposition ....................................................................... 19 Sharon Zukin on the Ideology of Historic Preservation ............................................... 20 Neoclassical models of Commute Cost to Housing Price Tradeoff ............................. 20 Damaris Rose on Social Reproduction of Labour ........................................................ 21 III. DESCRIPTION OF THE CASE STUDY ................................................................. 23 1. Arnhem ............................................................................................................. 23 2. Klarendal ........................................................................................................... 24 IV. HISTORICAL BACKGROUND ............................................................................ 27 V. RESTRUCTURING KLARENDAL ........................................................................ 30 1. Klarendal Kom Op! (2000- 2004) ...................................................................... 30 2. Klarendal Gaat Door (2005- 2008) .................................................................... 31 3. Resetting the goals (2008- …) ........................................................................... 33 Restructuring or gentrifying Klarendal? ..................................................................... 35 VI. FASHION AND DESIGN PRESENCE IN ARNHEM AND KLARENDAL .................... 37 1. Intro ................................................................................................................... 37 2. What Fashion means for Klarendal and Arnhem .............................................. 38 Fashion as an urban renewal tool .............................................................................. 39 Why Fashion? ............................................................................................................. 39 Fashion’s functions ..................................................................................................... 40 3. Fashion and Design presence through numbers .............................................. 46 Methodology/ Approach ............................................................................................ 46 Klarendal ..................................................................................................................... 48 Arnhem ....................................................................................................................... 50 4. Conclusions ....................................................................................................... 51 VII. BEYOND FASHION: THE CREATIVE CLASS ........................................................ 52 1. Intro ................................................................................................................... 52 2. Creative Industry cluster through numbers ..................................................... 53 Methodology/ Approach ............................................................................................ 53 Arnhem ....................................................................................................................... 53 Klarendal ..................................................................................................................... 55 Conclusions ................................................................................................................. 56 3. Why creativity is important for Arnhem ........................................................... 57 Postfordism and creativity .........................................................................................