1 A snake around the 7 Cinderdale and Rannerdale 86 Newlands Valley 74 Save this delightful walk for late spring It is hard to believe, but this bucolic when the lower reaches of Rannerdale valley was once a hive of industry are resplendent with bluebells 2 A Coledale trio 76 8 A Mellbreak traverse 88 Orthodoxy has it that there is only A stirring ascent, a celebrated waterfall one Coledale Horseshoe, but here’s and an unspoiled lake shore combine another (of sorts), just a little smaller on this invigorating walk of contrasts 3 Over Causey Pike 78 9 Loweswater overlook 90 If you do only one ascent, do this. Discover, in one of the quietest Perhaps the finest mid-height fell in corners of the National Park, a magical the Lakes view across the western panorama 4 Along the Edges to Buttermere 80 10 By the shores of Ennerdale 92 Spare some of the huff and puff with a There are plenty of ways to walk high-level start from Honister Hause around lakes in the Lakes – here is the wildest, remotest and best 5 From top to bottom 82 Explore the violent rock landscape 11 Ennerdale solitude 94 at the head of the (otherwise) cosy Lovers of windswept peace and Buttermere Valley solitude rejoice, for lonely Crag Fell and Grike await 6 Buttermere’s other lake 84 Spend a gentle hour bound for the company of alluring Crummock Water 73 X1 NEWLANDS, BUTTERMERE AND THE WESTERN WATERS Distance 11.5km Time 3 hours 15 turning right beyond the cattle grid onto Height gain 330m Map OS Explorer OL4 the lane to Skelgill. Just before the road Access supply hardly meets demand gate, step up to a wide stone path initially when it comes to parking by Hawse rising and then contouring south above End/Catbells. Spare yourself the chaos the intake wall flanking Catbells. From and enjoy a bracing chug across the lake this elevated line the view opens over the on the launch from Keswick. valley and the encircling ring of fells. Alternatively, from March to October, the Approaching Yewthwaite Gill, through the 77/77A Honister Rambler stops by the spoilheaps from one of the many former cattle grid referred to early in the walk mines, divert briefly from the wall to the footbridge, then turn west beneath Within the soft pastoral beauty of the Looking Crag towards Little Town. Do not Newlands Valley linger the hard edges of drop to the village; instead, leave the path a long-abandoned mining industry. at a sharp bend above the last cottage and Contrast the rough with the smooth on a walk south along a green path to meet a sinuous route through the tangled lanes, much more substantial stone track gentle folds and lazy pastures of a advancing towards the progressively sublime valley. wilder upper reaches of the valley. Start at Hawse End landing stage, After almost 1km, as the wall to the right Derwentwater (GR251213). Walk up the hill withdraws, cross the footbridge over from the lake, over the driveway to the Newlands Beck (1h). Now rise to a green outdoor centre, and by the remains of a track raking right towards Low Snab Farm. metal fence to the road. Remain upwards, Ignore the gate into the farmyard and 74 A SNAKE AROUND THE NEWLANDS VALLEY Newlands Church locate a wide green path rolling easily back down the valley to the lane end by continue up around the nose of Scope End Low High Snab Cottage. into the mouth of Little Dale. At a patch of Descend along the peaceful metalled spoil, take the path branching left to a cleft lane past hedgerow, pastures and cutting the fellside. Turn up a few metres scattered copses to reach the whitewashed to find a path traversing the western flank rustic charm of tiny Newlands Church of Hindscarth to the small reservoir at the (2h30). Continue to the T-junction, turn valley head. Hardly ever used, easy right to cross Chapel Bridge and ascend underfoot and with a strong sense of the with the road into and through Little hills, this is one of the best ‘secret’ paths Town. Leaving the village, take the walled in the Lake District. lane to the right (SP Skelgill) over a ford Some 100m short of the dam, the path (footbridge too) and on to its end at open dissolves in a wet patch; press on to the fields. The way now undulates NNE across water, a charming spot framed by a succession of pastures to a run of three Littledale Crags and waterfalls, crossing gates by Skelgill Farm. At the road, turn up the footbridges over the outlets to the to the gate across it, retracing your steps Robinson side (GR215177). Rise briefly to from here to Hawse End (3h15). 75.