COSTA RICA A RELAXED & EASY TOUR NOVEMBER 2–10, 2019 Fiery-throated Hummingbird, Panterpe insignis. D. Ascanio. LEADER: DAVID ASCANIO LIST COMPILED BY: DAVID ASCANIO VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM COSTA RICA: A RELAXED & EASY TOUR November 2–10, 2019 By David Ascanio Photo album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidascanio/albums/72157711817136493/page1 https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidascanio/albums/72157711817136493/page2 The beautiful gardens of the Hotel Bougainvillea welcomed us with a wonderful rainbow and a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl singing from the top of a small tree and being mobbed by hummingbirds, tyrant-flycatchers, and wood-warblers. We also enjoyed views of a pair of Rufous-naped Wrens, a vocal Rufous-browed Peppershrike, and the unmistakable Lesson’s Motmot. After breakfast, we took the road to Cartago where a little productive grassland allowed views of a few birds. Then we ascended the Pan-American Highway and, after reaching a higher elevation, we noticed a sudden change in vegetation and humidity; we had entered the cloud forest. A wonderful lunch was accompanied by excellent views of the territorial Fiery-throated Hummingbird and other allies including Talamanca and Volcano hummingbirds. Continuing our birding activities after lunch, we decided to take our chances exloring the highlands, to the antenna road. Reaching the pre-paramo is always a challenge because the weather can change dramatically in a few minutes. But, despite the wind and the humidity, we enjoyed very close views of Volcano Junco. Later, a Peg-billed Finch showed up for seconds, and for a grand finale we had a striking encounter with the Timberline Wren. We headed back to the west side of the mountains, and while driving the narrow road to San Gerardo de Dota we noticed trees packed with ferns and other epiphytes, as well as mosses and a rich, lush understory. Seeing the grandiosity of these mountains along the bus ride was breathtaking, and although we were excited with all the birds seen, we were ready to check into our hotel and relax amid its wonderful gardens. When we met to do the checklist for the first day, our description of today’s birding was simply: a magical day! Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Costa Rica: Relaxed & Easy, 2019 We included Cerro de La Muerte in our Relaxed & Easy itinerary because it is one of the most reliable locations to look for the spectacular Resplendent Quetzal, and it paid off well. An early morning found us on a farm where an optional walk to a look-out allowed views of a male perched at eye level and a female just a little higher. Those who stayed along the road enjoyed views of the female. After breakfast, we continued our search for the unique avifauna of this mountain range, and among bird feeders and easy walks we enjoyed views of the Ochraceous Wren, a pair of Flame- throated Warblers, Silver-throated and Flame-colored tanagers, Collared Redstart, Yellow-thighed Finch, Large- footed Brushfinch (previously called finch), the small but active Torrent Tyrannulet, and a wonderful male Scintillant Hummingbird (and a female, nesting!). After seeing many of the target species of this glorious cloud forest, we dedicated the second morning to explore another quetzal tree, and this time we saw two males and three females! We continued our drive with a stop in San Jose to enjoy delicious pizzas (and to see the Steely- vented Hummingbird that religiously comes to the flowers at the parking lot) and continued our drive towards the diverse Caribbean Lowlands of Costa Rica. Driving along the highway that edges the Braulio Carrillo National Park is always a wonderful experience. This is one of the rainiest locations in Costa Rica, and we noticed the high humidity, precipitation, and richness of the vegetation. A short stop along the road in a garden with vervain flowers allowed us to see some of the most extravagant and impressively beautiful hummingbirds of Costa Rica: the Snowcap, the Green Thorntail, and the Black-crested Coquette. I am sure everyone will agree with me that putting into words our encounter with these amazing hummers was close to impossible. It was like having a wonderful dream! They came to us in perfect order, all at close distance and at eye level, showing for several seconds. I have to insist that it was exceptionally beautiful. I still have vivid images of the plumages of these species, from intense emerald-greens in the thorntail to golden flashes in the coquette, or burgundy colors contrasting with immaculate white in the Snowcap. And best of all, it stopped raining so that we could see these hummers well, and after we left the location it started raining again. The skies Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Costa Rica: Relaxed & Easy, 2019 eventually opened up to a sunset with pink, golden, red, blue, and gray colors that were enjoyed during the drive to our home for the next five nights, La Quinta de Sarapiquí. Green Thorntail, Discosura conversii . Photo: D. Ascanio. In the Caribbean Lowlands of Costa Rica we enjoyed a diverse number of birding activities, including the aerial tram, a family farm, a biological station, and an artist property packed with bird feeders. We started at the famous Aerial Tram, located in the buffer zone of Braulio Carrillo National Park. Among the welcome party we got great views of Buff-rumped Warbler and Semiplumbeous Hawk, but the stars of the morning were two impressive Baird's Tapirs walking—unimpressed with our presence! After exploring the tram station area, we embarked in two gondolas (or baskets) and started a wonderful ride accompanied by the expertise of Alan and Freddy, two incredibly knowledgeable tico guides. As we moved along the tram, the rain got heavier, and we decided to take it the best way: it was a rain forest! But, there is always a positive side. Then, on the way down, it stopped raining and—as expected—the feeding flocks Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Costa Rica: Relaxed & Easy, 2019 moved frenetically along the forest canopy (probably moving too fast!) giving us the chance to see tanagers, tyrant-flycatchers, and Russet Antshrike, a faithful member of these flocks. Baird´s Tapir, Tapirrus bairdii. Photo: D. Ascanio. In the second morning we visited La Selva, a world renowned biological station where biologists and ecologists from all over the world come to study this fantastic tropical humid forest. On the trail, we observed wrens, attilas, trogons, and several Strawberry Poison Dart Frogs singing. Also, we observed a Middle American Screech-Owl roosting inside thick vegetation. The forest was alive with wrens singing and tyrant-flycatchers seeking prey. Upon finishing our visit to the trail, a bird walking on the forest floor captured our attention. Everyone froze, and within minutes we had an astonishing Great Tinamou moving in front of us! Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Costa Rica: Relaxed & Easy, 2019 In the third morning, we took a boat ride along the Sarapiqui River, where a short but consistent rain was noticed in soaked Anhingas, swallows, and an Osprey, which seemed to have said to us, “I am fed up with all that rain!” But, as we had learned by now, the weather didn’t stop us from seeing more wonderful birds. In the afternoon we visited the property of a friend, artist, and an incredible nature-oriented person. Cope (his artistic name) welcomed us with a wonderful set of honeycreepers, hummingbirds, tanagers, kiskadees, wood-rails, oropendolas, and much more coming to the bird feeders. Also, his brother-in-law took us to a site where a roosting Spectacled Owl was observed. Band-backed Wren with nesting material, Campylorhynchus zonatus. Photo: D. Ascanio. Our last morning in this wonderful bird-paradise country found us birding the gardens of La Quinta de Sarapiqui. Here, and again, we enjoyed a wonderful mix of tanagers, honeycreepers, aracaris, woodpeckers, thrushes, wood-rails, and sparrows visiting the bird feeders. Also, a walk in the gardens gave us the opportunity to be astonished by the strong voice of the bumblebee- sized Black-capped Tody-Flycatcher as three Social Flycatchers were fighting one another to catch a moth trapped inside the night lamp. The feeders at La Quinta helped us learn the meanings of some of the colors in bird names and understand the differences among similar ones such as buff versus rusty, or crimson versus red or scarlet. We learned to recognize these colors in different individuals and enjoyed being able to sort this out. The parade of birds kept us busy with this color puzzle until the aracaris took over the site, chasing all other smaller birds away. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Costa Rica: Relaxed & Easy, 2019 Collared Aracari, Pteroglossus torquatus. Photo: D. Ascanio. After checking out of La Quinta, we took the old road to San Jose, La Virgen del Socorro road. This wasn’t just a drive but another day filled with surprises. A stop in a family-owned little restaurant with (again!) hummingbird feeders and fruit tables for other birds gave us the opportunity to add the endemic Coppery-headed Emerald, Purple-throated Mountain-Gem, Green-crowned Brilliant, and the extraordinary Violet Sabrewing to our bird list. Just before we left, a colorful Red-headed Barbet showed up, and wonderful exclamations followed this encounter! Red-headed Barbet, Eubucco bourcierii. Photo: D. Ascanio. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Costa Rica: Relaxed & Easy, 2019 Back in San José we enjoyed another great meal and rounded-up a final checklist followed by a toast for the present and future of wonderful Costa Rica.