^\cf The EDITH and LORNE PIERCE COLLECTION of CANADIANA Queen's University at Kingston 1 mn ^ (?) S[/ 1 M/ /i\ ''ntepeoloim /i\ ! ucintin? I ALoNo tHe shores OF THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE AND THROUGH THE PROVINCES BY THE SEA. MONTREAL: Sabistor\ I_i'clr\o. & Pub. Co. 189 1 Department * of * I^aiLweiYs, * (£aNaDa COLLINGWOOD SCHREIBER, C. E., Chief Engineer and General Manager Canadian Government Railways, Ottawa. INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY OF CANADA. D. POTTINGER, Chief Superintendent, Moncton, N. B. P. S. ARCHIBALD, Chief Engineer, GEO. TAYLOR, General Freight Agent, A. BUSBY, General Passenger Agent, H. A. WHITNEY, Mechanical Superintendent, THOS. WILLIAMS, Treasurer and Chief Accountant, T. V. COOKE, General Storekeeper, - The Intercolonial Railway is the DIRECT ROUTE to the famous seaside and fishing resorts of the Lower St. Lawrence and Baie des Chaleurs, and of New Brunswic k, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Cape Breton and the Magdalen Islands . NEW and ELEGANT BUFFET PARLOR and SLEEPING CARS are run on Through Express Trains. The Intercolonial is unequalled for comfort and safety in its passenger train equipment. Through Express Trains are brilliantly lighted by electricity and heated by steam from the locomotive. The Westinghouse Automatic Air Brake is on all passenger train cars and engines. ROUND TRIP TOURISTS' TICKETS, SUMMER EXCURSION AND SEA BATHING TICKETS Good for passage between first of June and last of October, Are for sale at all Principal Railway and Steamboat Agencies in Canada and the United States. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2013 http://archive.org/details/intercolonialoutOOinte THIS IS A PREFACE. HAVE been told that there are well authenticated instances of people who read all that was worth reading in the first edition of this book, because they liked the preface. While this is less remarkable than if they had read the preface because they liked the book, it is pleasing to any getter up of guides to know that anybody but himself and the proof reader will peruse his work, just as if it were a Book of Jokes, or one of Zola's realistic narratives of life among the lowly. In the consciousness of this, he can rise superior to the author of the biggest dictionary on earth. With this intent there is a preface to this edition, though there is nothing to be explained, and no earthly need of an introduction of any kind. I have no idea how many editions of the Intercolonial Guide have been sent out. but the rapidity with which they have been exhausted, proves that a book, well printed and nicely illustrated, will not fail to have a large circula- tion, if it is distributed free of charge, and the distributor is as active as he ought to be. A knowledge of this should bring much comfort to young and struggling authors. This is the second revision of the original story. It was all true enough in the first instance, but this is a great and growing country, and every year brings changes. Even if this were not so, it would be impolitic to tell so much that nothing could be added. Men who write guide books must live with an eye to the future. While the present edition contains much that was in the others, either word for word, or disguised with more or less ingenuity, a large amount of really fresh matter has been scattered through the pages in such a way that, to be sure of finding it all, the whole book must be read. It may also interest the compilers of certain other guides to know that some typographical errors, which they have been copying without credit, have been corrected so as to make the matter more worthy of appropriation than in the past. Apart from any fresh errors that may occur this time, the following pages do not tell half the truth. That is because there is not room for it. No book can say, in reasonably brief compass, all that ought to be said of PREFACE. this country and its attractions. If it successfully hints at what may be enjoyed, the traveller can have plenty of fun in finding out the rest for himself. As far as space would allow, I have tried to be truthful, and have, in some instances, put the figures in fish stories considerably below those fur- nished by the men who said they weighed and counted the fish. While their statements were probably true, a stranger might be disposed to doubt them, and so have a distrust in regard to other allegations which it is important he should believe, whether they are true or not. A few dozen, or even a few hundred fish, should not be allowed to interfere with the more important interests of a great national highway. If there is anything else about which the reader is in doubt, further explanations may be had by addressing W. KILBY REYNOLDS. St. John, N.B., May, 1891. A RAMBLE AND A REST. [ ESS than a generation ago the Maritime Provinces of Canada were as far -^ removed from the ordinary course of tourist travel as is the Island of Newfoundland to-day. Within a score of years, even, their beauties were unknown save to those who were willing to sacrifice their comfort, journey without the aid of railways and rough it for hundreds of miles in what was then, as much of it is now, a land of the forest and stream. The railway era had begun, but there was little more than a beginning. Here and there was a piece of road connecting two points, which were then, and seemed destined to be, unimportant and slow of growth. Wide gaps separated the principal cities, and a wider gap separated the provinces by the sea from the rest of the great Dominion. The most convenient way of reaching this part of the world from Quebec, or any point west of it, was by a round-about railway journey through the United States, and thence by a sea voyage to St. John or Halifax. The tourist who wrote a book came occasionally and found much to interest him. Then he went home and told the world what a quaint and curious country he had found by the shores Down East. Under the most favorable circumstances he had seen very little of it, but he knew more about it than most of his readers knew, and his story, a burlesque though it might be, was an authority with the rest of the world. Since then the times have changed. In the meantime, busy hands were at work in the Provinces. The gaps were closing. The construction of the Intercolonial Railway had been one of the terms of Confederation, and year by year the work was pushed forward until there appeared one of the most substantially constructed and best equipped lines in the world. To-day there are about 1,200 miles of Govern- ment Railway connecting the city of Quebec with the Maritime Provinces, while the numerous connections, under the control of private companies, aid in giving access to some of the most attractive places for summer travel to be found on the continent of America. In former years, before the American tourist had been awakened to the possibilities of this country, the usual goal of summer journeyings was the city of Quebec. Reaching that place the steps were retraced, and with good reason, for beyond it, to the south and east, the map showed nothing to tempt the pleasure seeker further. On the map of to-day may be trace 1 — 6 a line which stretches along the Lower St. Lawrence, through the famed Metapedia Valley, skirting the equally famous Baie des Chaleurs, and on through New Brunswick and Nova Scotia to the city of Halifax. Arms reach out here and there, reaching to St. John on the west, and Sydney, Cape Breton, on the east, while still another branch traverses the Garden of the Gulf, known as Prince Edward Island. This is the Intercolonial Railway. Built from a commercial point of view, the wonderful opportunities for the health and pleasure seeker were never dreamed of in the early days. Now it has become the great avenue of travel for those wjio seek rest and recreation in a glorious summer land. Not that there is ever a crowd and a crush, such as the true pleasure seeker aims to avoid. In the area of territory reached by this railway there are so many places which attract that the lover of the quiet in nature can always find his peaceful haven. It is a country of refreshment and rest for those who desire such, as well as a paradise for the fisherman and sportsmam One can] enjoy the solitude of nature, free from the intrusion of the crowd, and yet enjoy the privileges of the daily mails and the telegraph. And withal it is a part of the earth in which one may enjoy a maximum amount of pleasure with a minimum of outlay. To the world-weary tourist, who has been used to the confusion of the conventional summer resort, there may come a vision of this country, a country which lies by the sea aud is fanned by cooling breezes from the ocean. In this land are green hills, shady groves and fertile valleys. From the distant mountains the crystal brooks come leaping with the music of gladness, and join with noble rivers in whose clear waters dwell lordly salmon and scarce less lordly trout. Near at hand are forests, as yet so little disturbed that the moose, caribou and bear, now and again visit the farm- yards of the adjacent settlements, and gaze in bewildered surprise at the man whose hand is raised to slay them.