Downloaded from http://jramc.bmj.com/ on March 26, 2018 - Published by group.bmj.com Footnotes and endpieces to his clients, with the encouragement that Threading the needle: when embroidery such designs would find a ready market. Thesiger joined forces with other like- was used to treat shell-shock minded individuals to found the Disabled Soldiers’ Embroidery Industry (DSEI) Jonathan Davidson as a way of promoting the recovery and employment of war veterans.3 After a slow start, the DSEI gained momentum and INTRODUCTION attracted royal patronage, with support from Queen Mary, the Prince of Wales and The use of embroidery to provide the Queen of Spain. Queen Mary accepted comfort for victims of trauma goes back an altar frontal for use in the private several hundred years. An early example chapel at Buckingham Palace (Figure 2), is provided by Mary, Queen of Scots, the Prince commissioned a historical map who found “great solace” in prolonged for his home, and the Queen of Spain captivity as she dealt with what her doctors received a stool cover. In 1933 the present called “grief of the spleen” (or obstructio 1 Queen, Elizabeth II, received a small blue splenis cum flatu hypochondriaco). Later bag inscribed with her initial ‘E’ and a applications of needlework included its crown on the front.3 Other commissions use in the military context for a variety of included an order for the Haig banner purposes, mostly in the form of embroi- Figure 1 Bradford Cathedral altar frontal. at Ypres Memorial Chapel. Thesiger dered badges as symbols of admired qual- Included by permission of Jacqueline remained actively involved as an instructor ities like loyalty, courage, ferocity and Holdsworth (http://needleprint.blogspot. in the DSEI programme (Figure 3), which strength, or to denote membership of a com/2010/02/louisa-pesel-shell- shocked- continued to function into the 1960s, particular unit. The design and use of soldiers.html). when the DSEI gave an embroidered chair such badges is often subject to strict regu- to Princess Margaret on the occasion of lation. Less well known is the therapeutic her wedding, and in 1961 sent a represen- application of embroidery to survivors of tative to the funeral of Ernest Thesiger. combat trauma. What follows is a histor- St Paul's Cathedral has borne important ical account of this practice, with emphasis witness to World War I embroidery. In on World War I and a consideration of its 1919, a five-panel altar frontal was dedi- place in current practice. cated to the cathedral. The creation of this frontal was the result of an initiative by WORLD WAR I the Royal School of Needlework and the The merits of occupational therapy, concerted efforts of 133 disabled soldiers including embroidery, for shell-shocked Figure 2 Buckingham Palace altar frontal. in hospitals across England. The panels survivors of combat were described by Included by permsssion of HL Tyler (http:// depict the Eucharistic chalice as a symbol Williamson in 1917,2 and it was later www.ernestthesiger.org). of suffering and two palm fronds to reported to thwart ‘melancholy’.3 Among symbolise victory. The tapestry covered the the first to advocate for, and teach, embroi- altar until World War II, when it was put in dery for shell-shock was Louisa Pesel bags, many of which are still in use. Pesel storage and largely forgotten. It was subse- (1870–1947), an internationally known was a prolific author and lecturer, and her quently restored and displayed as part of pioneer in the use of needlework.4 After influence was considerable. the cathedral’s centenary commemoration a term as director of the Royal Hellenic The stage and film actor, Ernest Thesiger of the war, along with a list identifying School of Needlework in Athens, Pesel (1879–1961), himself a wounded War War all 133 soldiers who made the frontal5 returned to her home town of Bradford, I veteran, was an ardent embroiderer and (Figures 4, 5, 6). where in conjunction with the Abram Peel saw its potential as a form of therapy and Needlecraft was not limited to the World Neuropsychiatric Hospital, she taught source of income for disabled veterans. War I wounded in the UK. It found favour embroidery to soldiers returning home Thesiger favoured Queen Anne or Chip- in Australia and New Zealand, where from action at the front. Pesel favoured pendale chair designs, which he provided important collections of World War I Greek and Middle Eastern motifs in her artwork now exist at the TePapa Museum designs. A well-known example of the work in Wellington and the Australian War of these soldiers is the altar frontal, origi- Memorial Museum in Canberra. Among nally made for use during worship in the many examples, the work of Albert Biggs Abram Peel Hospital and now part of the is mentioned here. Biggs enlisted in the Bradford Cathedral collection (Figure 1). Australian Imperial Force and fought at Subsequently, Pesel moved to Winchester Gallipoli and later at Lagincourt, where he where she led a team in the creation of earned the Military Medal. It was at Lagin- over 500 kneelers, stall cushions and alms court that Biggs sustained severe injuries which left him unable to use his right hand Psychiatry, Duke University Medical Center, Durham, and impaired the function of his left knee. North Carolina, USA Figure 3 Disabled Soldiers’ Embroidery Biggs spent 1 year in a French hospital, then Correspondence to Professor Jonathan Davidson; Industry (DSEI) logo. Included by permission of at Tooting, where he was encouraged to david011@ mc. duke. edu HL Tyler (http://www.ernestthesiger.org). take up ‘fancy work’, as embroidery was Davidson J. J R Army Med Corps Month 2018 Vol 0 No 0 1 Downloaded from http://jramc.bmj.com/ on March 26, 2018 - Published by group.bmj.com Footnotes and endpieces drawing the mind away from self-absorbed thoughts into the fingers. In a controlled study of healthy young adults, Conner et al8 found that the act of creating led direc- tionally to improved affect and flourishing. Creative art activities are now included in the management of PTSD, such as the Healing Arts Programme at the Walter Reed National Military Medical Centre,9 although needle- work is neither offered in this programme, nor in the federally funded National Endow- ment for the Arts Military Healing Arts Part- Figure 4 St Paul’s Cathedral altar frontal. nership,10 but it would be a natural fit. It is Copyright, The Chapter of St. Paul’s Cathedral. interesting that, while needlework has been Included by permission, Simon Carter. almost entirely the province of women, male veterans of World War I embraced it too. then called. On return home, Biggs spent This now overlooked activity may yet find a another 2 years at Randwick Hospital place in the treatment of PTSD for men and (4AGH). Biggs’ instructor noted that women. embroidery helped patients ‘to forget that have any great disability'.6 The Australian Contributors JD conceived the idea and wrote the Figure 6 St Paul’s Cathedral. Remembrance article. War Memorial contains four examples of book. Copyright, The Chapter of St. Paul’s Competing interests None declared. Biggs’ work, one of which displays Austra- Cathedral. Included by permission, Simon lia’s coat of arms (Figure 7), a theme that Carter. Provenance and peer review Not commissioned; he perhaps chose in affirmation of his iden- internally peer reviewed. tity. Other motifs included gold daisies and © Article author(s) (or their employer(s) unless red berries, a Union flag and the following instructive on the ways in which creative otherwise stated in the text of the article) 2018. All quotes: ‘For England home and away’ activity of this type can be used to deal rights reserved. No commercial use is permitted unless 7 otherwise expressly granted. and ‘Australia will be there.’ As Brayshaw with extreme adversity. observed, creating these masterpieces repre- sented a triumph over the odds since Biggs IMPLICATIONS FOR CURRENT was unable to use his right hand. PRACTICE To cite Davidson J. J R Army Med Corps Epub ahead of There is much about needlecraft that suggests print: [please include Day Month Year]. doi:10.1136/ jramc-2018-000922 WORLD WAR II it should be beneficial in PTSD. For example, Embroidery played a more limited role it can be engaged in individually or in a J R Army Med Corps 2018;0:1–2. during World War II. The so-called group, both of which offer different bene- doi:10.1136/jramc-2018-000922 fits. It affords the opportunity to focus atten- ‘Penelope Kits’ were produced on a REFERENCES commercial scale by WM Briggs, to be tion away from personal ailments and fears, and through the finished product, to confer 1 Fraser A. Mary Queen of Scots. New York: Delacorte made available only to servicemen and Press, 1973. women, and more for recreation than a sense of worth or even income. Others 2 Williamson RT. Remarks on the treatment of formal therapy. There have been two have noted how embroidery can assist with neurasthenia and psychasthenia following shell shocK. reducing arousal, regulating emotion and Br Med J 1917;2:713–5. striking accounts of prisoners of war using 3 McBrinn J. ’The work of masculine fingers’: the needlework to cope with the hardships of Disabled Soldiers’ Embroidery Industry, 1918–1955. J captivity. While space precludes going into Des Hist 2016:epw043. detail here, the stories of Sergeant Morris 4 University of Leeds International Textiles Archive. Larkin and Major Alexis Casdagli are Louisa Frances Pesel (1870-1947). http:// ulita. leeds. ac. uk/ history- of- ulita/ pesel/ (accessed 1 Sep 2017).