past and present conditions along the scenic byway 3 Historic laundress quarters at the American Camp unit of San Juan Island National Historical Park past and present conditions along the scenic byway The distinctive Pacific Northwest Archipelago Experience... of the San Juan Islands begins with the environments, from forests to beaches, Through understanding and exploring marine passage across the Salish Sea. and to view wildlife, from deer to orca the existing conditions in the San Juan As the byway extends onto the islands, whales, are part of the allure of this place. Islands, unique resources of the byway scenic country roads wind through The mild climate, abundant recreation can be identified, along with important picturesque landscapes, quaint villages options, and opportunities for peaceful needs. The existing physical conditions, and hamlets, and other crossroads respite also attract people. It is no wonder history, and culture of the islands and destinations. Visitors have many that many visitors fall in love with the introduced in this section of the plan opportunities to connect with the unique islands and return time after time, some set the stage for the byway’s story. This culture, history, and exquisite beauty of choosing to make the San Juans their section also provides a review of existing the marine and island environments that permanent or part-time home. Residents plans and policies relevant to the San are part of the byway experience. of the islands include artists, pilots, Juan Islands Scenic Byway. shopkeepers, teachers, writers, people The islands have long been a haven for who work in the fishing, agriculture, and those seeking an escape from the rest timber indutries, and others. The people of the world. Many places in the islands of the islands whose families have lived attract guests throughout the year, but here throughout time, as well as those particularly in the summer. Opportunities who call it home today, contribute much to be close to diverse natural to the rich story of this byway. corridor ManageMent plan 3-1 past and present conditions along the scenic byway Natural History The natural history of the islands, briefly summarized below, has influenced the spectacular scenic beauty and unique marine and geographic conditions that make the San Juans a world- class destination. The San Juan Islands are thought to have originated as a result of partial submergence of a mountain range that crosses the area in a northwesterly direction. The islands and reefs represent the higher points in the range, while the valleys and ravines form the channels and harbors. The Puget Trough, which lies between the Cascade Mountains and the continental coast for the entire length of Washington state, from Canada to Oregon, is the basin in which the San Juan Islands are located. The Puget Trough is a glaciated feature, and the submerged mountain range within this basin that eventually became the islands may have once connected Vancouver Island to the mainland. During the Pleistocene Ice Age, all of the islands were covered by glaciers. In some areas, the ice may have been more than one mile thick. The region’s highest peak, Mount Constitution on Orcas Island, bears glacial markings at its very top. The lowest point in the islands, a trench in Haro Strait, may have been carved out by the glaciers as well. Century by century, this huge ice sheet surged and crunched southward over the top of what eventually became the San Juan Islands. Two distinct types of geologic landforms developed over millions of years in the San Juans. The first consists of bedrock domes thinly covered with late Quaternary (glacial) sediments commonly Hiker gazing at the San Juan Islands from Orcas Island found on San Juan and Shaw islands, as well as Cypress 3-2 SAN JUAN ISLANDS SCENIC BYWAY past and present conditions along the scenic byway less rainfall and more sunny days in the San Juans than many other areas in the region. Precipitation at sea level increases from south to north in the islands as the rain shadow influence dissipates. For example, the average annual precipitation at the south end of Lopez Island is 19 View of the Cattle Point landscape and the south end of Lopez Island inches, while the northern portion of Orcas Island receives 30 inches average annual precipitation. Precipitation also Island (in Skagit County). The second Distinctive glacial erratics can be found increases with higher elevation producing type, found on the islands of Lopez, in fields and forests across the islands. a maximum average annual precipitation Waldron, and Decatur, is composed of There are even places like the Cattle of 45 inches on Mount Constitution. bedrock buried beneath sediments more Point Interpretive Center where grooves than 300 feet thick in places. Neither can be seen from granite boulders The maritime air surrounding the islands formation is exclusive to any single (originally from the Canadian Rockies) also moderates the climate. Summers island. Portions of Orcas, Lopez, and that were dragged across native basalt are relatively short, cool, and dry, and Waldron islands have surface exposures layers during the glacial era. winters are mild and moderately dry of bedrock, and parts of Orcas and when compared to other areas in the San Juan islands have thick glacial Pacific Northwest. However, when cold, deposits. Most of the intermontane Climate arctic air funnels down the Fraser River valleys and lowland areas of the islands The climate of the San Juan Islands is mild, Valley from Canada, winter temperatures express a low, rolling topography and with about half the average annual rainfall can drop dramatically. Average high are underlain by a few feet to several as the Seattle area to the southeast and an temperatures in the summer are in the low hundred feet of glacially-derived sand, average of 247 days with sunshine each year. 70s (Fahrenheit), occasionally peaking in gravel, and clays associated with the the mid-80s. Average lows in the winter advance and recession of the latest The climate is influenced by the range in the high 30s, at times dipping into continental glaciers that rode over the mountains on the Olympic Peninsula to the low 30s/high 20s. Snow sometimes area from the north and east. This is the southwest and Vancouver Island to falls on the islands in winter, typically once in sharp contrast to the mountainous the west and northwest. These influences or twice a year with accumulations of not terrain dominated by bedrock at or near create a “rain shadow” effect producing more than one or two inches. the land surface. corridor ManageMent plan 3-3 past and present conditions along the scenic byway Natural Resources The natural characteristics of the San Juan Islands are extraordinary. Elevation and topography, soils, marine conditions and hydrology, vegetation, diverse ecosystems, and wildlife/marine life are summarized below. Elevation and Topography View of Clark Island and other small islands in the archipelago from the top of Mount Constitution at Moran State Park Abrupt changes in elevation occur throughout the San Juan Islands and surrounding waters. The maximum 500 feet in elevation, and about 14 such as those filling low-lying out-wash height above sea level is found on Mount percent is above 1,000 feet. Glacial basins, are composed of extremely fine Constitution with an elevation of 2,409 influences in the terrain are evident sand and clay. Most wetland areas in feet. The deepest sounding recorded in throughout the islands. For example, the San Juan Islands are underlain with the area occurs in Haro Strait near Stuart Orcas Island is nearly cut into two islands these types of soils. The availability Island, with a depth of 1,356 feet below by a narrow fjord-like harbor known as of clay soils has led to various pottery sea level. As such, the San Juan Island East Sound, which opens towards the operations around the islands. region presents an extreme relief of south and merges with Lopez Sound. 3,765 feet. The topography throughout Marine Conditions the islands is diverse, with rolling terrain Soils and Hydrology and valleys between low hills in many Soils in the San Juan Islands region are Marine conditions include the saltwater areas. There are also areas of steep highly variable. Nearly one hundred environments. Kelp and eelgrass beds, terrain as well as flatter or moderately- types have been defined and described. spawning beaches, enclosed bays and sloped prairies and pasture lands. They are typically rocky, coarse-textured, rocky reefs provide diverse habitats for extremely well drained, and poor in different life stages of many species of On Orcas Island, about one-third of the nutrients. In many areas the soil layer marine life. The marine environment is 57 square miles of the island is above is very thin. However, a few soil types, fragile, subject to many influences in water 3-4 SAN JUAN ISLANDS SCENIC BYWAY past and present conditions along the scenic byway and on land. Habitat destruction caused by shoreline development, overfishing, and the introduction of invasive, non-native species reduce the diversity and integrity of marine ecosystems. Because marine and upland ecosystems are connected, every local property and business owner has a role in determining the health of the marine ecosystem. Given these concerns, several organizations and agencies joined together to designate a Marine Stewardship Area and develop a Marine Management Workbook for that area. The workbook is designed to help local island communities and others identify sites for marine stewardship and apply management strategies. The Marine Stewardship Area was officially adopted by San Juan County in 2004. The average water temperatures in the seas surrounding the San Juan Islands are fairly cold, ranging from 44ºF in the winter to 51ºF at the height of summer, in August.