Beijing Passing through: the Forbidden City. Opposite, collectable Chairman Mao pins in the old Liulichang market Face time Beijing is a vast, intimidating megalopolis, but regular visitor Ellen Himelfarb can get you inside the city — up close and personal !" SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL FEBRUARY !"#$ FEBRUARY !"#$ SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL !# Beijing ight out of the airport the the clay rooftops of old Beijing, to the towers of the new. high-rises start flying past, Out west are the bulb and needle of the Radio & TV a thousand Jenga towers of Tower. East, the three mountainous humps of the surreal hanging laundry, hoisting the Wangjing SOHO complex by the late Zaha Hadid. The SNAPSHOT horizon up 30 storeys. As you sprawl is endless. And the Drum Tower? Just be sure MOMENT splutter off the highway into to be here for the top of the hour, when ceremonial As you traverse the morning traffic, lanes multiply, drummers attack the drums, propped like oversized courtyard between tail-lights pierce the infamous wine casks — the urgency is like a call to war. the Bell and Drum Towers, look out for ‘fog’, and you’re part of a giant Thus begins your pilgrimage south. The towers exit into families playing pixelated red dragon inching towards the centre. The Di’anmen Outer Street, leading to a bridge built during jianzi, a lively game identikit towers yield to glossy skyscrapers, one like an the reign of Kublai Khan, the war-mongering Mongol using shuttlecocks kept in the air. Hands Regg, another a funnel. Then the driver fires a command, emperor who ruled China in the 13th century. Continue are not allowed… incomprehensible, ushering you out. You’re on your own. on to ersatz temples housing department stores and As a bucket-list trip, Beijing lacks the welcome of, say, banquet halls, where parties pinch at platters of stir-fry. Venice. Beijingers don’t smile, nor move out of the way The road splits to embrace imperial Jingshan Park (25p of your suitcase. But take it on the chin — it means you’re entry), a scenic high ground built of soil excavated while being treated like anyone else. And the key to Beijing is digging the Forbidden City moat. It has leafy sycamores, to go for it. If a door’s open, creep in. If it’s on the menu, a soundtrack of birdsong, and a swirl of secluded paths, point. If the lights are on, order another beer. You’ll find leading you to the top of Prospect Hill. Here greying men this big foreboding megalopolis surprisingly inclusive. dip giant brushes in water, and paint characters on the Give Beijing a few days. You can see the vestiges of pavement that disappear in the breeze. Take in this, the imperial China, dine like an old hand and have time Beijing view, over the Forbidden City, your next stop. to explore the hip backstreets. Six centuries ago the Ming emperors were considered God’s envoys, and they hired a million labourers to build The imperial their heroic HQ. The Forbidden City (dpm.org.cn; £5; Streetlife: clockwise from top left, serving The city’s ancient imperial heart, built by the decree of photo ID required) has more security checks than an up skewers of Ming emperors six centuries ago, will test your feet — but airport. You emerge from the cavernous gates into a grasshopper, sea you can get to grips with it in a day. First, a taxi — cheap forecourt so colossal tour groups merely speckle the horse and snake in (£3 max), ubiquitous — to today’s starting point, up north brickwork. The largest palaces line up for a kilometre, Wang Fu Jing Road; classic Peking duck; in Gulou, within the evocatively named 2nd Ring Road. lacquered red, gargoyles peering down, gilt lions standing the Forbidden City; Flag one by sticking out your arm, and flutter your hand sentry. Queues form to climb the marble steps to peek in incense burning as if you’re shooing it away. at dragon reliefs coiled around chandeliers. at a temple; the Radio and TV The Drum and Bell Towers (guloutsx.com; £3.50) are Fanning outward are nearly 1,000 lesser villas, roofs Tower dominates twin 15th-century bastions with ascending patterns of upturned at the corners, like smiles. The English headset the skyline; the pagoda roof a few storeys apiece. Their role in dynastic (£4.60) guides you around the historic avenues to each ancient Bell Tower; Beijing was plain. Before clocks, musicians sounded one, telling tales of burned-down throne rooms; harems ’30s-era ads in Liulichang market; beats and bells throughout the day, breaking time into of kidnapped women with feet bound to prevent escape; the Liberation of two-hour portions. Stand in the surrounding piazzas, banquets of monkey-brain and camel-hump, tested the People statue in edged by trees and residential streets, and you’re in by underlings for potential poison; eunuchs smuggling Tiananmen Square; the age of silk hanfu robes and ‘Fu Manchu’ moustaches. out jewels during the Japanese invasion of 1933. Ghost Street; guard at the Gate of Upon a thigh-testing climb, the Bell Tower reveals its A stream meanders within the walls, reaching the Heavenly Peace in seven-metre cloche. But the real spectacle? Views over deepest fringes. Follow it to the Palace of Benevolent > Tiananmen Square !$ SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL FEBRUARY !"#$ FEBRUARY !"#$ SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL !% Beijing Tranquillity, where many an emperor spent his wedding com; mains about £23), west towards the centre, where walls. But Beixinqiao belongs to a United Nations of £2), for platters of steamed dumplings loosely pinched Wheels on night, then continue deeper. The red concubine villas AFTER-DINNER the bird is carved delicately, but without ceremony. Chinese. At a corner barbecue with a hairdryer to fan around crunchy kung-pao (spicy) chicken, sweet yams fire: cycling in SNIFTER? Tiananmen Square around the western flank were frenetic with beauticians Either restaurant is Beyond duck, the city bubbles with complex flavours. the flames, Uighurs from the Muslim Xinjiang province and salt-and-pepper shrimp. Heads down, they sit in and hairstylists in imperial times; each night a eunuch handy for Janes and New to Beijing, Untour (untourfoodtours.com; £47) serve Halal mutton skewers dusted with cumin at plastic silence, dipping the dumplings in sweet vinegar and would fetch the chosen woman and escort her to the Hooch (janeshooch. summonses you to the fringes of Gulou for a three-hour garden tables — the authenticity is in the chunks of slurping them whole, at 10p a pop. com), a smart, late emperor’s lair. Today, they’re the least-visited houses and sexy Prohibition- dinner extravaganza with all the unrecognisable meats fat interspersed with the meat. On the next block, Behind every monument is a cluster of smaller hutongs, — by afternoon most tourists will have drifted toward style bar. Go for a and condiments you can handle. It begins in Ghost Street, Fifth Brother (5 Nanbanqiao Hutong) is virtually and you don’t have to abandon the comfort zone of your the exits, leaving you alone, with the ghosts of the lovers. shot of baijiu, the named for the spectre of lanterns said to have lit the old un-Googleable, yet it’s busier than McDonald’s guidebook to find them. Tourists swarm to Houhai, west Chinese firewater, night-market in the last centuries of dynastic Beijing. as fans (here with their extended families) devour of Gulou, formerly the emperor’s pleasure gardens — but but beware — it’s The edible 40 per cent ABV! On balmy nights, seniors in singlets sit outside Qing-era chicken wings rolled in Sichuan peppercorns. a few minutes’ amble west is Luo’er Hutong, a street Beijing’s nights are almost brighter than its days, thanks facades sizzling with neon, as frying lamb and steaming Like England and pubs, every neighbourhood here market where vendors squat over blankets heaped with to the glare of neon. It signals the shift from work to play jianbing (chilli-rubbed crêpes) wait to be devoured. has a place for no-frills, no-nonsense, no-way-you-could- spring onions. The market leads to Huguosi, a lane where — along with clouds of steam from a million pots. In According to Untour, chefs themselves eat in the close forget-it meals. Lunch is the perfect time to seek one out. curly-eaved shops as decorative as pagodas each sell every other window, roasted ducks hang like Christmas lanes of corrugated-roof cottages called hutongs. Shoebox Flutter your hand for a taxi, or dip into the warrens of a version of Beijing’s classic ‘snacks’ (just try leaving decorations. Served to nobility since the 1200s, Peking restaurants around Beixinqiao Station host beer- and the Metro (tinyurl.com/hej5l87; 24p) to get closer. un-full). Huguo Temple Snack Bar (68 Huguosi Street) is duck remains a Beijing staple. Yet at the fine-dining halls, whiskey-fuelled diners. At fluoro-lit Lao Liu Hotpot Meanwhile, Chaoyang Park, on the eastern edge the most overwrought, with a bakery counter stocked to the ceremony can be cringe-worthy: dinner begins with (73 Beixinqiao), tureens of bubbling broth arrive, with of the city, is an almost primeval landscape of lakes the ceiling, shelves labelled in Chinese, and queues three a struck gong at Duck de Chine (elite-concepts.com/ddc; paper-thin lamb, root veg and tofu to pop in. Beijingers and pagodas. And amid a complex of mountain-shaped deep. Distinguish the glossy, sugared desserts from the mains about £22), in Sanlitun, a quarter of luxury-brand claim hotpot as their own — it was here that Mongolian towers is the best dumpling house for miles.