MYSTERIES AND SACRED SITES OF STEPANAVAN DISTRICT TRAVEL GUIDE 2010 Taguhi Sahakyan Contents Table of Contents 1. Lori Region (p. 4 - 5) 4. Places to visit along the Gargar River (p. 12 - 14) a. Gyulagarak – Dendropark (Botanical Garden), 2. Stepanavan (p. 5 - 7) Tormakadur Church a. Stepan Shahumyan Museum b. Vardablur – St. Jgrashen Church, Vardablur's Fortress, b. St. Nshan Chapel St. Sargis Church c. Chrchran Waterfall c. Kurtan – St. Astvatsatsin Basilica (V c.), Hnevank Monastery Complex (VII c.) d. Kuybishev Lake d. Dsegh (on Debed River) – Hovhannes Tumanyan's e. Lori Berd (Fortress-town) House-Museum, St. Grigor Lusavorich Chapel (XII-XIII f. Shushanik's Fortress c.), Mamkikonyan's Medieval Cemetery, Sirun Khach g. Communist Cave (Mayori Dzor) (Beautiful Cross Stone), Bardzrakash St. Grigor h. Hovhannes Tumanyan's School Monastery (XIII c.), Gikor's Mountain Spring i. St. Sargis Church j. Amrakits (Kirov) Village of Russian Babushkas - 5. Places to visit in the north of Stepanavan (p. 14) Russian church a. Sverdlov – St. Gevorg Church (XI-XII c.) k. Lovers' Trail b. Sverdlov-Privolnoe – Dorbandavank/St. Astvatsatsin l. Tormakadur Church (VI c.) m. Dendropark (Botanical Garden) c. Privolnoe-Jiliza – Khuchap (XIII c.) and Khorakert (XI- n. Pushkin Pass XIII c.) Monasteries 3. Places to visit along the Dzoraget River (p. 9 - 12) 6. Day tours from Stepanavan along the Debed River (p. 15) a. Agarak Village – Darmanatagh, St. Astvatsatsin a. Dsegh (see above) Church (V-VI c.), Fountain Monument (X-XI c.) b. Tumanyan – Kobayr Monastery (XII – XIII c.) b. Lejan – Red Church (XIX c.) built on V c. foundation c. Alaverdi – Haghpat (X-XIII c.) & Sanahin (XIII c.) c. Yaghdan – Medieval bridge (XIII- XIV c.), Karmir Khach Monasteries, Sanahin Bridge (XIII c.) Church, Ttu jur d. Akhtala – St. Mariam Monastery and Akhtala Fortress d. Koghes – Tomb of Prince Turik (XII c.), Koghes Gorge, (XIII c.), Lenktemur's Fortress Ruins Greek Church, Lazar's Caves, Red Church (X-XI c.) e. Ardvi – St. Hovhannes Church (VIII – XVII c.), 'Snake's Bellybutton' f. Odzun – Danushavan – St. Horomayr Monastery (VII c.) g. Odzun – Odzun's Domed St. Basilica Church (VI c.) Jiliza ApavenArtsni Metsavan E Dzoramut Sarchapet G Gogavan Norashen Khorakert Dzunashogh N Paghaghbyur A Khuchap JojkanKarkop R Lenk Temur's Mets Ayrum Mikhailovka Mt. Lalvar Akhtala ed Mt. Andranik Lernahovit Fortress b 2543 e 3196 Petrovka SHAMLUGH Aroghjaranin kits D S Kruglaya Shishka Privolnoye Bendik Pokr Ayrum Dashtadem T AKHTALA Shnogh d TASHIR O Akhtala be r Akhtala's v a T Neghots Se as Y Fortress Mt. Gaylakar h Teghut Noramut ir Medovka Kajajkut 3122 Dorbandavank N Meghvahovit St. AstvatsatsinMt. LejanA ALAVERDI Sanahin Medieval Mt. Ampasar Sverdlov 2526 Bridge 3047 Blagodarnoye H Akori Deb Haghpat St. Gevorg Church e d A Haghpat Monastery Saratovka R Hagvi Kayan Sanahin Urut Fortress Akner Katnarat I Tsaghkashat P Novoseltsovo o k D ra get Getavan V Amoj h g z o St. Basilica Church A e t Shushanik's Kuybishev Fortress Odzun Katnaghbyur Stepanavan Bovadzor Ttu Jur Lakes Lakes Red Church Horomayr Monastery (Ghoturner) Hovnanadzor R Chrchran Waterfall STEPANAVAN Lejan St. Astvatsatsin Church Ardvi Aygehat Urasar Yaghdan Odzi Port Mt. Chatin Lori berd Agarak TUMANIAN 2244 Armanis Dzo ra get Ttu Jur Mghart St. Nshan Communist S. Grigor Chapel Ttu Jur Medieval Koghes Kobayr S (Narzan) Cave Amrakits Russian Bridge Karmir Kober Bardzrakash G Church Aghek B Z U erg Caves kayarani Karinj A M e r Vardablur Gyulagarak St. Jgrashen T Church Arevatsag Pushkin Gargar Marts Hobardzi Tsater Dsegh Vardablur Kurtan Tormakadur Fortress Hnevank Dzoraget Shamut Dzoragyugh Chkalov Lorut A Dendro Atan R ts kha n Pushkin Pass Antaramut ar ch n a M Chi r Park Debed a A g o Ahnidzor G E Yeghegnut Gogaran N G Vahagni C h R Aznvadzor a Saralandj n Sarahart Vahagnadzor a Shirakamut g Lousaghbyur Bazum h c ShenavanArevashogh Arjut h Arjut kayaranin kits i Karadzor Geghasar Karaberd Mets Parni SPITAK A Khnkoyan Hartagyugh Nor Khachakap Pa m Pambak kayaranin kits Mt. Ayrikar b a k Pambak Darpas P am 2781 v ba Katnajur dna Ghursal k o r G V Lernapat Tzaghkaber Mt. Bovakar Lernantsq Gugark Lernavan 3016 Jrashen HaydarliVANDADZOR U Saramej G Halavar Shahumian Lermontov P A M Kilisa B Gulludara Margahovit A Gazanabuts pet. tntes. kits. Mt. Maymekh v Fioletovo e K t 3081 s g A A N G E R Mt. Tezhler 3101 Mt. Arkhashan 3052 3 Lori f Armenia was to be considered an open-air museum, then the Lori region must be one of the richest and most remarkable Icollections of that museum. In historical Armenia, Lori was part of the Tashir district of Gugarat's Land. It was renamed Lori after the 10th century, when Lori Fortress and town became the center of the Tashir-Dzoraget Kingdom. The largest region in Armenia, Lori is an exceptionally beautiful area, known for its hidden graceful corners, sublime mountains, scenic forests, clear mountain springs, and mild and advantageous weather. The mountains surrounding it (Virahayots, Javakhk, Gu- garats and Bazum) are dressed in green and largely afforested. Haghpat Monastery Lori also has a number of scenic gorges, caves and rivers (Debed, Dzoraget & Pambak). The beauty is complemented by its luxuriant meadows and alpine pastures, and rich with cultural assets, which include fortresses, churches, monasteries, medieval bridges, foun- tains, shrines and khatchkars: all the pride of our nation and Lori's (Tashir-Dzoraget) architectural school's distinctiveness, high class and longevity. Armenia is a birthplace of metal. The ores required to produce copper and iron were abundant here, along with fuel to operate the kilns and the water to grow the abundant crops and animal resour- ces necessary to support large settlements. Lori was the focus of mining at an early age; its copper veins still producing ore today. The profusion of copper, iron, silver, gold, lead and zinc, in relatively easily mined locations, led to the early development of metallurgy here. Prehistoric excavations in the Lori region include the Copper Age settlements at Spitak and Vanadzor, and Bronze Age and Iron Sanahin Monastery Age settlements at Stepanavan, Lori Berd, Arevatsag, Lorut, Taka- vorakan, Pambak, Debed and along the Tashir-Dzoraget corridor. One of the fringe tribes of the Nairi in the 2nd millennium BCE, Lori Lori lived a constructional ascent during the Bagratuni-Kyurikian became a part of the Urartian Empire in the 8th century BCE. Urartu Kingdom (X-XII c.) – Haghpat and Sanahin Monasteries were broa- was a remarkably developed culture that had extensive contacts with dened, Kobayr, Khorakert and Horomayr Churches were founded the major empires of the ancient world, stretching between the and Lori, Akhtala and Kulet Fortresses were built during this period. th Mediterranean and India, and rivaled them for trade, military and At the end of 11 century, Seljuks conquered Lori - they robbed and cultural hegemony. The fall of Urartu is in part traced to the invading ruined Haghpat, Sanahin and Lori Berd (Lori Fortress-town). In Cimmerians, also known as Scythians, from the north, who entered 1122, Lori obtained freedom with the help of the Georgians and rule through Lori en route to Anatolia. Urartian settlements in Lori include passed to Georgian Orbelians. In 1185, it passed to the noble Zaka- Lori Berd, Tashir, Dsegh, Vanadzor, Alaverdi, Teghut and Margahovit. rian Dynasty; followers of the Georgian Orthodox Church. During this period, Lori blossomed and reached new cultural heights. Ma- Roman/Arsacid sites can be found at Tashir-Dzoraget, Lori, ny churches and monasteries were built and completed during this Vanadzor and Alaverdi. period. Between the 12th and 13th centuries, a branch of the noble Mamikonyan Dynasty started to undertake large-scale construc- Stepanavan, with a population of 15,000 is considered the second tion in Dsegh. After being conquered a number of times, only in largest town in Lori. 1801 was Tashir-Dzoraget, along with Georgia, connected to Prehistoric sites in Stepanavan, such as Lori Fortress, date back to Russia. Lori has always played an important role in the develop- the Stone Age. Stepanavan with surrounding areas was part of the ment of Armenian – Georgian relations. Tashir Province and was included in the Artashesian Dynasty, and On a dramatic green Lori plateau, beside the remarkable gorge of the later part of Arshakunyats Kingdoms. In 385, after division of Grea- Dzoraget River, is situated Stepanavan, the city and former regional ter Hayk Tashir Province, Stepanavan was left in the area of Arme- capital, named in honor of the great Marxist revolutionary Stepan nian principality. Since the 9th century, Shirak's Bagratuni Dinasty Shahumyan. Other important Lori towns include Vanadzor, Spitak, have governed the area and joined several neighboring provinces Alaverdi, Tashir, Akhtala, Tumanyan and Shamlugh, and the village together to create Tashir -Dzoraget Province of Lori Kingdom under of Dsegh (birthplace of the famous poet, Hovhannes Tumanyan). Kyurikians. The greatest period of the Kyurikian Kingdom was from Stepanavan (Jalaloghli before 1923) is located on both sides of the 980 to 1048 AD, during the reign of Davit Anhoghin and after him, Dzoraget River, about 1380m above sea level. It is located 167km Kyurike, when the area was expanded at the expense of Gandzak from Yerevan (a similar distance from Tbilisi) and has always been and the Tbilisi Provinces. The kingdom stretched along the Pam- an important hub between the two capitals. The afforested Bazum bak and Debed rivers with the center being Lori Berd. mountain chain surrounding it from the south gives it a special In medieval times, Stepanavan was the mansion of the Zakarian beauty. Stepanavan has a mild mountain climate, considered the Dynasty. It also served as a summer resting place for Armenian best in Armenia since the air is always fresh and clear.