Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Retrospective Theses and Dissertations Dissertations 1982 Bodice fit compared: conventional alterations with and without graphic somatometry Laura Jo Lesko Iowa State University Follow this and additional works at: https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/rtd Part of the American Material Culture Commons, Fashion Design Commons, and the Home Economics Commons Recommended Citation Lesko, Laura Jo, "Bodice fit ompc ared: conventional alterations with and without graphic somatometry" (1982). Retrospective Theses and Dissertations. 16808. https://lib.dr.iastate.edu/rtd/16808 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Iowa State University Capstones, Theses and Dissertations at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Retrospective Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Bodice fit compared: Conventional alterations with and without graphic somatometry by Laura Jo Lesko A Thesis Submitted to the Graduate Faculty in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of MASTER OF SCIENCE Major: Textiles and Clothing Signatures have been redacted for privacy Iowa State University Ames, Iowa 1982 ii TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTION · · · 1 Objectives · · · 4 Assumptions · · · 5 Limitations · · · 5 Hypotheses . · · · · · · 5 REVIEW OF LITERATURE · · · . · · · 7 Figure Analysis · · · · · · 7 Somatotypes . · · · 7 Body build and posture · · · 8 Recent Research on Fitting Using Angle Measurements . 11 Traditional Pattern Alteration for Bodices . 14 Good fi t . 14 Measurement procedures 16 Choosing a pattern size . 16 Ease recommendations 17 Alterations . .. 17 Sequence of alterations . · 20 PROCEDURES 22 Screen and Platform 24 Photographic Process 25 Equipment . 25 Selection of Subjects 29 Interpretation of Somatographs . 30 Explanation of Computer Programs . 34 Selection of Pattern Size and Measurement of Subjects 35 Measurement of Body Angles . · 37 Back bodice waistline dart · 37 Back shoulder dart 39 Front darts . · 40 Shoulder seams 41 Side seams · 43 iii Alteration Procedure ....... 45 Unit Method alterations .... 45 Back circumference alteration 46 Front circumference alteration 46 Back length alterations 47 Front length alterations . 47 Shoulder length alterations : 47 Finishing . 47 Experimental Method alterations 48 Back waist dart 49 Back shoulder dart 49 Back width . 49 Front darts . 49 Front width . 50 Shoulder seam length and angle 50 Bodice length 51 Side seam angles 51 Finishing ... 51 Construction of First-Fit Muslins 51 Development of the Evaluation Scale 52 Selection and Training of Judges 53 Evaluation of First-fit Muslins 54 Statistical Analysis . 55 Analysis of variance 57 FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION . 58 Evaluations by Raters 58 Analysis of variance 58 Overall ratings . 60 Directional ratings . 62 Absolute values . 63 Sums and differences 68 Interpretation of Findings 71 RECOMMENDATIONS . 76 Changes in the Measurement and Alteration Procedures 76 Changes in the Evaluation Procedure 77 Further Study . 78 iv SUMMARY . · 80 LITERATURE CITED · 82 REFERENCE NOTES · 84 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS . · 85 APPENDIX A: SOMATOGRAPHS OF SUBJECTS . 86 APPENDIX B: PHOTOGRAPHS OF FIRST FIT MUSLINS 91 APPENDIX C: EVALUATION INSTRUMENT 96 v LIST OF TABLES PAGE TABLE 1. Table of subjects, size, and figure types. 30 TABLE 2. Measurements needed to alter bodice pattern 36 TABLE 3. Analysis of variance model 58 TABLE 4. Treatment means for overall ratings 61 TABLE 5. Subject by treatment means for overall ratings 63 TABLE 6. Treatment means for directional ratings .. 64 TABLE 7. Subject by treatment means for directional ratings .. 65 TABLE 8. Treatment means for absolute values 66 TABLE 9. Subject by treatment means for absolute values of ratings . 67 TABLE 10. Treatment means for sums and differences . 70 TABLE 11. Subject by treatment means for sums and differences . .. '. 71 vi LIST OF FIGURES PAGE FIGURE 1. Layout of light source and screen 27 FIGURE 2. Angle measurement of back waistline dart. 38 FIGURE 3. Angle measurement of back shoulder dart 40 FIGURE 4. Angle measurements of front darts 42 FIGURE 5. Angle measurement of shoulder seams . 43 FIGURE 6. Angle measurement of side seams 44 FIGURE 7. Somatographs of subject 1 87 FIGURE 8. Somatographs of subject 2 87 FIGURE 9. Somatographs of subject 3 88 FIGURE 10. Somatographs of subject 4 88 FIGURE 11. Somatographs of subject 5 . 89 FIGURE 12. Somatographs of subject 6 FIGURE 13. Somatographs of subject 7 . 90 FIGURE 14. Somatographs of subject 8 90 FIGURE 15. Subject 1 fit for Unit Method and Experimental Method . 92b FIGURE 16. Subject 2 fit for Unit Method and Experimental Method . 92b FIGURE 17. Subject 3 fit for Unit Method and Experimental Method . 93b FIGURE 18. Subject 4 fit for Unit Method and Experimental Method. ........ ... ..... 93b FIGURE 19. Subject 5 fit for Unit Method and Experimental Method . .. ..... 94b vii FIGURE 20. Subject 6 fit for Unit Method and Experimental Method . 94b FIGURE 21. Subject 7 fit for Unit Method and Experimental Method . 95b FIGURE 22. Subject 8 fit for Unit Method and Experimental Metpod . 95b 1 INTRODUCTION The comfort and fit of clothing is usually a matter of importance to the wearer. Most people are concerned with how they look and feel in their clothes. Because most people's bodies vary in shape and size, clothes fit individuals differently. Various aspects of body configuration, body size, and posture affect garment fit; therefore, these three factors are concerns for clothing educators and designers. Garments should be designed and constructed to fit the body smoothly, to have the right amount of ease, and to look and feel good. This is difficult to achieve for clothing manufacturers and commercial patternmakers because there are so many different body types. It is impossible to have ready-to-wear clothing that fits every individual perfectly. However, the home sewer has the opportunity to fit the figure accurately using commercial patterns which are sized for average body measurements within a limited number of figure types. The home sewer can make alterations needed to produce correct fit. An understanding of the human figure and different figure types aids in the understanding of pattern alterations. Sheldon, Stevens, and Tucker (1970) used silhouette photography to classify body type, but it is not directly applicable to fitting garments. The original study was 2 conducted in 1940. Croney (1971) stated that of Sheldon's three body types (endomorph, mesomorph, and ectomorph), the mesomorph is used in sizing commercial garments and patterns. However, human bodies fit into one or more of the three categories rather than into this one category. Douty (1968) used somatographs, silhouette photographs taken against a gridded screen, to classify figure types according to body build and posture. The somatograph clearly showed figural and postural variations; therefore, it could be used to view the figure objectively. Much can be learned by visually analyzing body shape, posture, balance, and symmetry, all of which are evident on the somatograph. Colton (1976) suggested that, as people know more about their own.bodies, they find it easier to achieve desired fit in a garment. Somatographs provide a depersonalized representation of the human figure. The sewer should therefore be able to analyze the figure objectively and take accurate body measurements on the somatograph and the self to make correct pattern alterations. With practice, the home sewer should be able to first predict which alterations need to be made to a commercial pattern, and then carry out the alterations necessary to produce a garment that fits the body smoothly and comfortably. Traditional methods of pattern alteration use body 3 circumference and body.length m~asurements as a basis for making personal adjustments, but do not provide any basis for altering dart and seam angles. The somatograph can be used to measure the angles formed by body parts as a basis for pattern alterations, in addition to traditional circumference and length measurements taken directly from the body. The use of angle measurements in combination with traditional circumference and length measurements for pattern alterations should produce a better fitting garment. The bodice area is part of the figure that involves a variety of fitting alterations, because it contains many curves and angles depending on body build and posture (Iowa Horne Economics Association, 1977). Most traditional methods of bodice alteration dO,not include ~ethods for measuring angles, which aid in changing the slope of shoulder seam, side seam, altering the bodice back for rounded shoulders, and increasing or decreasing dart size on bodice front to accomodate the size of the bustline. Measurement of these areas is difficult, if not impossible, to make on the body. Somatographs can be used for angle measurements applied to pattern alterations. Brinson (1977) combined an angle measurement technique and traditional methods of alteration to fit the bodices of basic dress patterns and compared them to bodices altered by traditional methods alone. However, Brinson compared the fit of one person's bodice altered by 4 one method to the fit of a different person's bodice altered by a different method. Pouliot (1980) developed a method for altering pants using graphic somatometry in combination with computerized techniques by using