THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA VANCOUVER ISLAND SECTION ISLAND BUSHWHACKER ANNUAL VOLUME 39, 2011 VANCOUVER ISLAND SECTION of THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA SECTION EXECUTIVE – 2011 Chair Cedric Zala Secretary Rick Hudson Treasurer Geoff Bennett Banff Mountain Film Festival Coordinator Kari Frazer Bushwhacker Committee Sandy Briggs Lindsay Elms Rob Macdonald Russ Moir Martin Smith Bushwhacker Design & Layout Sandy Stewart Education Dave Campbell Equipment Mike Hubbard FMCBC Rep Andrew Pape-Salmon Library/Archives Tom Hall History Lindsay Elms Membership Christine Fordham Members-at-Large Dave Campbell Phee Hudson Russ Moir Martin Smith National Rep Rick Hudson Newsletter Cedric Zala Safety Selena Swets Schedule Catrin Brown Russ Moir Webmaster Martin Hofmann ACC VI Section website: www.accvi.ca ACC National website: www.alpineclubofcanada.ca ISSN 0822 - 9473 Cover: Nine Peaks in all its glory PHOTO: AHREN RANKIN Printed on forestry-certified paper Contents MESSAGE FROM THE CHAIR Cedric Zala ....................................................................................................................................................................................1 VANCOUVER ISLAND West Face of Dwarvish Chris Ruttan ................................................................................................................................................................................................3 Pogo Mountain Northeast Gully Lindsay Elms ........................................................................................................................................................................4 Canoe Peak Lindsay Elms .........................................................................................................................................................................................................................5 Mount Curran and Mount Joan Pam Olson...............................................................................................................................................................................6 Mount Sir John Sandy Briggs ................................................................................................................................................................................................................8 Wosscairn Lindsay Elms .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................9 The Trifecta: Nine Peaks, Big Interior Mountain and Mount Septimus Ahren Rankin ...........................................................................10 1.99 Times up Mount Spencer Martin Smith ...........................................................................................................................................................................13 To Elk or not to Elk, that is the Question of Mount Cobb Ken Wong ..................................................................................................................14 Mount Alston and Alston Fin Martin Smith .............................................................................................................................................................................16 Mount George V, …Ticked off at last! Peter Rothermel ..................................................................................................................................................17 Rock n’ Roll from Sea to Sky Nadja Steiner, Martha Boon, Silas Boon, Iain Sou, Cees Dirks and Evelyn Sou .....................................18 COAST RANGE AND THE ROCKIES Lake O’Hara Summer Camp – ACC Vancouver Island Section Cedric Zala ....................................................................................................22 Lake O’Hara Alpine Camp Lyle Young ........................................................................................................................................................................................23 The North Face Summer Leadership Training Nadja Steiner .................................................................................................................................... 24 The Bugaboos Kent Krauza ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................25 PHOTO CONTEST WINNERS ................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 26 Ethelweard the Unclimbable Ken Wong ..................................................................................................................................................................................30 The Tantalus Range Lyle Young ........................................................................................................................................................................................................31 Summer Camp 2011 - Athelney Pass in the Coast Range, BC Rick Hudson .................................................................................................................32 Mount Robson Circuit (via Berg Lake and Moose River) Albert Hestler ...........................................................................................................34 SOUTH OF THE BORDER AND DISTANT PLACES Nevada Scrambles 2011 Martin Smith ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 37 A Winter Ascent of Jebel Toubkal - 4167m, Morocco Graham Maddocks .......................................................................................................40 Hiking New Zealand’s South Island: observations on vegetation and terrain Pam Olson ............................................................... 42 Zillertal Days - Hiking the Austrian Höhenweg Rick Hudson ...................................................................................................................................44 2011 Summit Climb Baruntse (7152m) Expedition Makalu Barun National Park Nepal Tak Ogasawara ................................46 MOUNTAIN AIR British Columbia’s Magnificent Parks: The First 100 Years Christine Fordham ............................................................................................50 Praise Morpheus - The four fundamentals of a good night’s sleep Rick Hudson ..........................................................................................51 Qualicum Beach Alpine Club Lindsay Elms ............................................................................................................................................................................. 55 Message from the Chair Cedric Zala tain Film Festival (BMFF). We dealt with lots of ques- tions from interested lovers of the outdoors and likely attracted some new members in the process. • We had our best BMFF ever, with a sold-out house and a record net income, which will be largely applied to sup- porting our education subsidy program. We also collab- orated with local vendors by arranging for a 10%-off day for all BMFF attendees. • We arranged for a wilderness first aid course for our members through Slipstream. • Our members put on lots of trips and climbed lots of mountains, and we hope to encourage even more trips by making changes in our subsidy policy that would re- quire people to lead a trip in order to obtain a subsidy for a course. To further encourage this, we increased the subsidy to a full 75% of the cost of instruction, and broadened the interpretation of “trips” to include clinics and special events. Report from the Chair – 2011 • We collaborated with a number of other outdoors and conservation groups to oppose a developer’s proposal Cedric Zala to build a 250-cabin resort beside 16 km of the Juan de Fuca Trail. Through the efforts of the alliance, the rezon- ing was ultimately refused and the Juan de Fuca trail was saved from massive adjacent development, at least for the 011 was yet another banner year for the ACCVI, with the immediate future. 2continuation of our ongoing programs and activities and Our slideshow evenings continue to be very popular, and the initiation of some new directions as well. As I look back on we were particularly fortunate in having legendary climber the year I would like to remember some of its highlights: Fred Beckey speak to us in November. With about 90 people • We had three weeks of summer camps in the coast range. in the audience, the 88-year old mountaineer talked about These camps, ably organized by Rick Hudson, continued his life and passion for climbing and held the house spell- our new tent-based helicopter-accessed summer camp bound for more than two hours. program initiated in 2010. We joined with the Vancou- Next year is our section’s centennial and we have set up ver Section to spend three one-week periods (14 people several projects, both fun and serious, to celebrate this mile- in each week) at the remote and spectacular Athelney stone in grand style. Our projects here include: Pass in the Coast Mountains. • The Climb the Island challenge. The idea is to challenge • We organized a one-week summer camp at Lake O’Hara. members