4-H Quality Construction Checklist The following standards are commonly found in garments of quality construction. Appearance, Overall Buttonholes (continued) ___ Notions compatible in color, fiber, weight, and For machine-made buttonholes design. ___ The stitches evenly spaced and smooth in appearance ___ Fabric used correctly, plaids, stripes, checks, or on front and back of buttonhole. other designs attractively planned for matching. ___ Center cut neatly with all loose threads trimmed off. ___ Fabric nap correctly used. ___ Interfacing an appropriate color. ___ Pressed to give smooth look to finished garment. ___ Loose ravelings, basting threads, and thread ends Collars removed. ___ Free from bulky seams graded, clipped, or notched. ___ Understitching holds undercollar in place so it does not Belts show. ___ Style of belt suitable to garment design, uniform ___ Appropriate interfacing used. width. ___ Shape symmetrical on right and left. ___ Ends well finished. ___ Curved edges smooth, points sharp and flat. ___ Closure appropriate. ___ Rolls smoothly or lays flat according to design. ___ Durable and attractive. Cuffs Buttons ___ Flat, smooth, free from bulky seams graded and ___ Neatly and securely fastened. understitched where applicable. ___ Appropriate in size and design. ___ Even in width. ___ Placement accurate and attractive, uniform ___ Undercuff does not show. distance from edge and in spacing between. ___ Appropriately interfaced. ___ Appropriate shank provided. ___ Stitching started and ended under button. Darts ___ Tapered and smooth, free from pucker or bubble at Buttonholes point. ___ Flat and securely stitched. ___ Securely fastened at ends. ___ Even in width and length. ___ Symmetrical in shape, length, and spacing. ___ Placed at points of strain. ___ Attractive placement. ___ Attractive and accurate in distance from edge & in ___ Pressed correctly, vertical darts pressed toward center, spacing between. horizontal darts pressed down. ___ Cut on grain. ___ Appropriate in size. Facings ___ Appropriate interfacing used. ___ Flat, smooth, free from bulk. ___ Seams graded, clipped or notched, and understitched For fabric (bound) buttonholes as needed. ___ Lips an attractive size and even in width. ___ Securely tacked in place at seams, darts, and openings. ___ Lips meet exactly at the center of the hole. ___ Facing edges free from ravelling. ___ Corners square. ___ Any edge finish flat, smooth, & free from bulk. ___ Facing securely and appropriately fastened to the back of the buttonhole. Fit Lining ___ Adequate ease for comfort. ___ Conceals inner construction of garment without adding ___ Fitting details (neckline, armhole, waistline) excess bulk. properly located on body. ___ Color & care requirements compatible with outer fabric. ___ Silhouette lines follow silhouette of body. ___ Fits smoothly inside garment with seams aligned. ___ Lengthwise grainline perpendicular to floor; ___ If attached at hems, has pleat for ease. crosswise grainline parallel to floor. ___ If free hanging, attached at seams with French tacks. ___ Darts point to and stop short of the fullest part of ___ Hemmed shorter than garment, 1/2 inch shorter than the area they fit. sleeves & 1 inch shorter than skirt or pants. ___ Free from strain and/or excess fullness. Neckline Gathers ___ Free from bulk. ___ Uniform, evenly distributed. Stitched so pleats are ___ Facings flat & inconspicuously graded, clipped, & not formed. understitched. ___ Adequately full, do not look skimpy or bulky. ___ Design symmetrical. Hems Needlework (hand stitching) ___ Flat and inconspicuous, unless meant to be ___ Uniform stitches, secure, inconspicuous. decorative. ___ Correct technique used on stitch with single thread. ___ Seams pressed as required and graded to reduce ___ No bulky knots at thread ends. bulk. ___ Correct stitch used for purpose. ___ Hem fold pressed so hem hangs smoothly at lower edge. Placket ___ Hem edge smooth, flat, and free from ravellings. ___ Flat, free from excess bulk. ___ Excess fullness evenly eased, free from pleats. ___ Inconspicuous unless meant to be decorative. ___ Seams aligned. ___ Correct technique used for purpose,faced, bound, ___ Hem edge finish should not create ridge or add hemmed. bulk. ___ Hem even in width. Pleats, tucks ___ Width appropriate for garment style and fabric type. ___ Uniform in width (unless design varies). ___ Topstitching attractive in size & placement, ___ On straight grain of fabric when design allows. straight. ___ Neatly pressed as required. ___ Hand stitches uniform, secure, & inconspicuous. ___ Stitching straight. ___ Fused hems securely fused & flat. ___ Spacing attractive & accurate. ___ Hem hangs parallel to floor. ___ Length attractive for wearer & appropriate for Pockets garment. ___ Flat, smooth, free from bulk. ___ Stitching straight. Interfacing ___ Pressed neatly. ___ Enhances body & wear of garment. ___ Color & care requirements compatible to outer For Patch pockets fabric. ___ Upper corners reinforced. ___ Free from bulk & ravellings. ___ Square corners mitered; round corners symmetrical. ___ Not visible on inside or outside of garment. ___ Hem appropriate width & neatly finished. ___ Attractive placement. ___ If in pairs, coordinated in size, shape, & fabric design (if applicable). Pockets (continued) Stitching In-seam pockets ___ Stitch length & tension appropriate for fabric. ___ Straight, free from tangles, knots, & skipped stitches. ___ Interfaced, understitched, lay flat when worn. ___ Beginning & ending of stitching locked in appropriate ___ Inconspicuous unless meant to be decorative way. ___ Loose threads cut off. Pressing ___ Garment smooth & free from wrinkles. Topstitching ___ Free from sheen & scorch. ___ Straight. ___ No ridges from seams or facings. ___ Attractive in placement. ___ Seams pressed flat & inconspicuous. ___ Stitch length & tension appropriate for design & fabric. ___ Darts presses to shape garment. ___ Pleats, tucks, creases pressed as design requires. Understitching Seams ___ Even distance from seam & inconspicuous. ___ Holds seam against facing, under collar, or cuff without ___ Securely stitched, straight, flat, free from bulk. wrinkles. ___ Stitches appropriate in size & tension. ___ Prevents facing, undercollar, or cuff from rolling to right ___ Fullness eased as required. side of garment. ___ Crossed seams intersect correctly. ___ Pressed in correct direction. Waistband ___ Graded or trimmed & understitched where ___ Smooth, even width. appropriate. ___ Free from bulk. ___ Fabric design matched as possible. ___ On grain. ___ If finish used, no added bulk or tension. ___ Interfaced. ___ Construction notches trimmed off after seams are ___ Stitching straight. sewn. ___ Corners square. ___ Free from ravelling. ___ Unless band is a design feature, the overlap is even w/ Sleeves placket & a 1 inch extension is on the underlap of band. ___ Skirt or pants eased to fit band. Set-in sleeves ___ Sets exactly at top of zipper. ___ Fullness evenly distributed. ___ Seam smooth & even in width around cap. Waistline Seam ___ Underarm section of seam trimmed & double ___ Inconspicuous, smooth, & flat. stitched. ___ Seams & darts match if appropriate. ___ Seam pressed toward sleeve cap. ___ Secured by waistline stay to prevent stretching. ___ Free from ravelling. Zipper Kimono or raglan sleeves ___ Placket smooth, flat, & free from puckering. ___ Seams pressed open ___ Stitching straight & even. ___ Clipped & reinforced as needed. ___ Placket appropriate length & width. Snaps, hooks & eyes, & other fasteners ___ Seams & neckline edges match. ___ Zipper completely covered. ___ Applied with small, neat stitches that do not show ___ Zipper slides easily. on right side. ___ Inconspicuous unless meant to be a design feature. ___ Reinforced with interfacing. ___ Skirt & zippers end at band. ___ Placed at least 1/8 inch from garment edges. ___ Neckline zippers end 1/2 inch from neckline so fastener ___ Inconspicuous from right side of garment. ___ Garment lays flat when fastened. can be attached above zipper.