chapter 6 Damascus and the Centre Damascus1 C’est la plus sublime mosquée du monde par sa pompe, la plus artiste- ment construite, la plus admirable par sa beauté, sa grâce et sa perfec- tion. On n’en connaît pas une semblable, et l’on n’en trouve pas une seconde qui puisse soutenir la comparaison avec elle.[1] [1326] The builder-converters of the Umayyad Mosque (from the Roman Temple of Jupiter) were certainly aware that the structure they built on and modified was very old, Yakut relating how the foundations were dug out to ensure their solidity, perhaps because the masons knew that local stone needed checking,2 as must have been known when the citadel was constructed.3 In the pro- cess they discovered an inscription in Greek conveniently predicting the mosque.[2] Al-Muqaddasi described the richness of the materials and their decoration, including the mosaics[3] which, before the fire, were also to be seen in the prayer hall.4 Dimashqi wrote that “par sa beauté, son élégance et sa per- fection est comptée parmi les merveilles du monde,” lavished with marble and mosaics.[4] Of its builder, “it is said that he expended the revenues of all Syria on this work.”[5] This occasioned restrictions on the next ruler.5 Non- Muslims were for centuries forbidden access (cf. Chapter Two, under Haram/ Forbidden), which is surely why Fermanel in 1670 affirmed that the “galeries, lesquelles, comme aussi la face de la Mosquée, sont peintes à la Mosaïque rep- resentant plusieurs Saints Pères, ce qui authorise assez qu’elle a esté bastie par les Chrétiens.”[6] 1 El-Hage 2000 for photographs: 6–57 for the town, its visitors and photographers; 79–85 walls and gates; 87–98: Umayyad Mosque before the fire. 2 Nour 1982, 147–148: Damascus poor in building materials, with the stone of poor quality. 3 Hanisch 2007: it was built on late antique foundations. 4 Gautier van Berchem 1970–1. 5 Flood 2001, 244–5: Yazid III acceeding in 744 had to promise not to lay “stone upon stone, brick upon brick,” or to dig canals. © koninklijke brill nv, leiden, ���7 | doi ��.��63/978900433460�_008 Damascus and the Centre 263 If the mosque was indeed built as a competitor for churches,6 then it seems strange to modern minds that Christians were not admitted for centuries, the same case apertaining for the Dome of the Rock, an obvious comparison for the Holy Sepulchre, and elevated above it. Yakût tells a good tale which illus- trates an attempt, as it were, to wipe the eye of the Byzantines. When Omar became Caliph in 717AD, he reportedly found the luxury of the mosque exces- sive, and intended to strip off marbles and mosaics, and return to the treasury the money got by selling them off. Not very surprisingly, this did not happen because (and this is worth quoting at length) ten ambassadors arrived from the king of the Greeks: And they begged permission to enter and visit the Mosque. Permission was granted them to enter by the Bab al Barid, and a certain attendant was sent to accompany them who knew their tongue, in order to listen to their words, and report what they should say to ‘Omar, they knowing nothing thereof. The envoys passed through the court until they came in front of the Kiblah, and they raised their eyes to look at the Mosque. Then their chief began to hang his head, and his colour became yellow, and when his companions inquired of him the reason, he replied, “Verily, I had told the assemblies of the people of Rûmiyyah (Byzantium) that the Arabs and their power would remain but a brief space; but now, when I see what they have built, I know that of a surety their (dominion) will reach to length of days.” When ‘Omar heard report of this, he said, “I now perceive that this your Mosque is a source of rage to the infidels,” and he desisted from doing what he had intended therein. And ‘Omar had before this studded the Mihrâb with jewels of great price, and he after- wards hung up here lamps both of gold and of silver.[7] From this reasoning, Omar’s only justification for maintaining and enhancing the beauty of the mosque was to discomfit the Christians who, having once shared the complex with Muslims for worship, were presumably let inside to milk their admiration, just as were the ambassadors. However, this was also a town inside which Christians were not allowed to ride.[8] Here the locals had a reputation for surliness, and so Thompson in 1767 “applied to the Governor: who gave Orders to an Officer of the Janizaries to let two of that Body attend 6 Flood 2001, 213–236: the architecture of Umayyad Mosque as competition with Christians, and also with Byzantine sources, including use of architectural elements. 219: foundation of Ramleh in Palestine, with Sulayman also going to the Emperor for antique columns..