“Seated in a circle, on the ground, the guests ate from wooden dishes or platters of cork: for cutlery they used razor-sharp knives and nothing else. Rather than wine, honey which had cooled but not completely, acted as accompaniment to the meal; in it they dipped the white slices of fresh cheese, the grilled cheese patties, lettuce, bread and even meat.” G. Deledda Extract from her novella “The Tree Murderer” 1 HISTORICAL NOTES For many centuries, rom the dawn of its history, Sardinia was a favourite port of call for the mariner peoples who sailed the Sardinia maintained its FMediterranean in search of raw materials and new trading opportunities. For many centuries, the long-inhabited island identity in the face of the confronted these raiders preserving its identity. While the islanders did come under the cultural influence of the seafaring invaders from the sea, peoples to a certain extent, they also managed to defend and maintain their most authentic values, while enriching them and defending and preserving thus creating a multiform, extensive heritage of knowledge, customs and traditions. its most authentic values. Tangible signs of this capacity for self-preservation are to be found in the island’s natural, social and cultural environment which over the centuries has maintained characteristics of great uniqueness. In the collective imagination, Sardinia evokes ancient memories, sensations, scents, gestures and sounds shaped over time, which have survived and come down to us intact. This strong sense of identity is to be found in its material culture, its food, its ancient rites and rituals and in the traditions which the Sardinians continue to preserve with untiring, rigorous fidelity. The territories of Sardinia, with their great cultural heritage, have withstood the challenge of globalization. Vineyards, olive groves and pasturelands dot the landscape, bearing witness to the hard work and passion of the local people and shaping the identity of this land. In an age in which the pressure of consumerism entices us towards industrial products all similar as to shape, colour and flavour, on this island – at times harsh but more often hospitable and generous – there are still elements of a specifically local nature, which mark it out unmistakably. They include our raw-milk cheeses, wines made from native grape varieties, our extra-virgin olive oils, our monofloral honeys, special artistic bread and loaves prepared for high days and holidays, our hand-made sweets and pastries and all those products which are the fruit of wise and patient labour and which indeed become an art form faithful to tradition. 2 4 OLIVES AND EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OILS The olive tree, in the same way as the wild olive, grows all across the island and is a fascinating and widespread feature of its landscape. Olive groves in Sardinia cover in all more than 40,000 hectares, including mixed and single growth, on both the plains and hilly areas, under varying soil and climate conditions. Regional olive production, in excess of 500,000 quintals, is dedicated almost exclusively to the production of extra-virgin olive oil, with an average annual yield of about 90,000 quintals. Although olive groves are found throughout the island, they tend to concentrate in certain districts. In the countryside round Cagliari there are three main areas of olive cultivation: the Parteolla, around Dolianova; Monte Linas around Gonnosfanadiga and Villacidro, and the Sulcis. The varieties most commonly cultivated, yielding both olive oil and table olives, are the Tonda di Cagliari, the Nera di Gonnos, the Nera di Villacidro and the Pitz'e Garroga. Excellent extra-virgin olive oils come from these varieties, with slightly fruity olive flavours and mild taste, especially well- matched with delicate-flavour dishes and fish recipes. In northern Sardinia, the Sassari area sees the predominance of the Olive groves in Sardinia Bosana variety which is also the most common in Sardinia. Here, the cover in all more than two main olive-growing areas are the Nurra, between the cities of Alghero and Sassari, and the territories of Ittiri, Sorso and Sennori, 40,000 hectares, where major processing and marketing operations have also including mixed and single developed. The extra-virgin olive oil from these areas has the growth, on both the plains characteristic Bosana flavour: an intense, fruity note with grassy hints, fresh, slightly bitter, tangy and with notes of artichokes and cardoons. and hilly areas, under The inner areas of the Barbagia, Baronia, Marghine and Planargia varying soil and climate districts are also marked by the cultivation of the Bosana variety and to conditions. a lesser extent the by Nera di Oliena or Ogliastrina. The oils from these areas are intensely fruity, with a bitter, tangy flavour and overall grassy notes. A Lampadas tràmula ebbia, a Nadale est cotta s’olia. No more than blossoms in June – the olive ripens at Christmas. 5 6 OLIVES AND EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OILS The olive-growing areas round Oristano are concentrated along the coast and in the hilly areas of the Montiferru, in particular in the countryside round Cuglieri and Seneghe, home to an important national extra-virgin oil competition. The varieties grown in this area are mainly the Bosana and the Semidana with an intensely fruity flavour, slightly bitter taste and overall grassy notes. Over the last two decades, despite its relatively small olive production, Sardinia has made substantial investments to improve its oil production, achieving high quality standards and growing commercial recognition. Sardinia-produced oils have reaped many major awards in national and international competitions, and have been praised by world-famous gourmets. The key of this success lies in the combination of territory, varieties and processing techniques. Ideal soil and climate conditions, unique and distinctive local varieties and pressing techniques that preserve the full flavour of the olive, yield a scented, fresh product, unique in the world. Since 2006, the EU has protected the region’s oils with the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) label “Extra-Virgin Olive Oil from Sardinia” – Over the last two DOP Olio extravergine di oliva di Sardegna. decades, despite its relatively small olive production, Sardinia has made substantial investments to improve its oil production, achieving high quality standards and growing commercial recognition. Dognunu friet in s’ozu sou. Let each man fry in his own oil. 7 8 TRADITIONAL TYPES OF BREAD “Saludi e trigu” (Good health and wheat), is an ancient Sardinian greeting, a wish for prosperity coupling two fundamental elements of life: good health and a full granary, symbolising sustenance. A basic foodstuff of all Mediterranean peoples, a material symbol of both pagan and religious rites, wheat has been grown in Sardinian since Nuraghic times and for centuries has been a staple cultural and social – not to mention economic – asset for the island. Its production, consisting exclusively of durum wheat, is concentrated primarily in the plains of Campidano and Nurra and in other territories of ancient wheat-farming tradition, such as Trexenta and Marmilla whence, under the Roman Empire, its abundant harvests were also exported to the The breads belonging to mainland, resulting in the island being nicknamed the “granary of Sardinian tradition are very Rome”. Today the production of excellent-quality durum wheat is still a significant economic resource for the island, providing the basic numerous – by blending ingredient for several local food specialities, in particular various types simple ingredients such as of traditional bread and pasta, whose link with the territory is becoming increasingly recognised. Over the centuries, this ancient cereal crop flour, water, salt and yeast, has been an important element of social life. The craft of bread-making over time the housewives is steeped in traditions stretching back thousands of years and which (sa meri 'e domu) created still today, thanks to an enduring culture, maintain a strong continuity with the past. In many areas of Sardinia, the tradition of home-baking a whole host of breads still survives, often using sourdough, known as fermentarzu, that is a differing from village to portion of the dough which is preserved and carefully stored from one village as to baking, shape baking session to the other. The evening before the bread baking, it is soaked in water and mixed with a small quantity of flour to form sa and religious or civil feast madrighe or mother, that is the leavening which will be used to make days. the bread and which will produce its distinctive flavour and taste. The breads belonging to Sardinian tradition are very numerous – by blending simple ingredients such as flour, water, salt and yeast, over time the housewives (sa meri 'e domu) created a whole host of breads differing from village to village as to baking, shape and religious or civil feast days. Everyday bread, or holiday, ritual or ceremonial bread, often beautifully and artistically shaped. Coccoi, cozzula, carasau, pistoccu, zicchi, chilbarzu, civraxiu, moditzosu, pillonca, tundas, pan'e scetti, pan'e simbula, pani biancu, lada, civraxieddu to quote just a few Pane pius saboridu types. But there are also other special types of bread, enriched with cand’est cun suor’’e cuidu. additional ingredients: lard, potatoes, pork rind, ricotta cheese, onions, Bread is tastier when it’s tomatoes and again eggs, cooked must, nuts, honey and raisins. made with elbow grease. 9 10 TRADITIONAL TYPES OF BREAD The great variety of types of Sardinian bread may be classified according to different qualities, such as type of flour, dough consistency, rising, baking method. However, a first broad distinction can be made between breads with crust and a soft, more or less compact, interior, and those produced in sheets or flat disks, either soft or crisp. To the first group belongs moddizzosu, a small round loaf with soft porous interior found under different names throughout the island.