SOME PERSONAL OBSERVATIONS ON CULTIVATING THE HELIAMPHORA by Robert R. Ziemer (P. O. Box 4562, Arcata, CA 95521) The following note is based on some 7 plants easily topple. I have tried clay years experience growing three species of pots, but, for some reason, the plants in Heliamphora - H. heterodoxa. H. nu- plastic pots have grown much better. I tans, and H. minor. This information is have also tried 25 x 40 cm plastic dish not intended to be a definitive or even a tubs with the bottom filled with perlite comprehensive guide to the cultivation of and the top 3/4 with live sphagnum. Again, these species, but simply some observa- the plants in the 20 cm pots grow much tions on what I have found to work for me better. through trial and error. I have not My Heliamphora absolutely do not conducted any rigorously controlled ex- grow well in water-logged conditions. periments on either potting mixture, They also do not like to be subjected to light, or temperature. Since these plants standing water. Drainage is a must. One are sufficiently difficult to obtain, every problem I have found with live sphag- death is a traumatic experience for me num is that even though the surface is and I have not wanted to repeat the se- green and growing, a few cm below the quence simply to study the reasons for surface the moss begins to break down failure. My main objective has been to and, within a year, forms a rather water- keep the little fellows alive rather than logged medium. I have found it best to risk losing some through experimenta- repot the plants in fresh live sphagnum tion. In general, however, I have found once a year - preferably in the spring. that all three species are about equally If left in the old material they seem to easy to grow and propagate, except, to progressively become less thrifty and date my H. minor has failed to produce more susceptible to rot. I water the plants flowers. from the top every several days so that SOIL MEDIUM AND WATER: I have water freely flushes through the medium found that my plants grow best in a light, and the pitchers remain full of water. well-drained soil medium. Live sphag- Once, through a lack of attention, I al- num moss seems to be best. I have tried lowed the sphagnum to dry to the point a mixture of live sphagnum and perlite, where the plants wilted. However, with but the plants have generally done some- a thorough rewatering, the plants sur- what poorly. On the other hand, a sphag- vived, although the tops of the mature num and peat mixture seems to be too pitchers were killed. I believe it is better heavy to allow good root pentration. Since to keep Heliamphora slightly on the dry the plants, except for H. minor, are fairly side rather than too wet. large ( 15 - 2 0 cm pitcher), I have found a TEMPERATURE AND LIGHT: I live 20 cm diameter plastic pot to be a good along the foggy Pacific Coast of extreme size. Ten cm pots are too small and the northwestern California (41° latitude) 90 Carnivorous Plant Newsletter in the land of the Redwood. The area three species of Heliamphora fairly easy to has the reputation of being one of the propagate although they grow rather slowly. foggiest places on earth. Summer day The best method is through crown time temperatures may occasionally reach division, as with Sarracenia. As the plant 22°C, but generally remain below 20°C matures, pitchers begin originating from and summer night temperatures remain several distinct points. Every 6 months or around 13°C. My plants are grown in a so the plants can be separated very easily greenhouse where the daytime tempera- by carefully breaking them apart. Both ture seldom exceeds 25°C. The green the roots and the pitchers of Heli- house is located under some Redwood amphora are extremely brittle and break at trees, so it receives direct sun only about the least provocation. The roots are very 2 hours a day. In addition to the diffuse easily damaged by transporting and often sunlight, the plants are located about 1 m break near the plant, leaving a root under four 4-foot vitagrow fluorescent less group of pitchers. The pitcher leaves are lamps. These are operated on a 10-hour equally susceptible to breakage - which photoperiod all year. In winter, a heater in makes shipping mature plants a the greenhouse is set to operate if the somewhat chancy venture. temperature drops below 12°C. I believe I usually divide the plants in early the plants grow best at temperatures between summer. Last fall I gave in to temptation 13°C and 22°C and under less than full and, separated my plants in late fall. Out sunlight. Once the temperature in the of 50 divisions, only 7 survived the win- greenhouse dropped so that water in the ter. Most of the plants progressively rot- pitchers froze - probably an air temperature ted, despite frantic attempts to save them. I of -2°C. Although there was some frost now believe this disaster was due to the damage to the pitchers, all plants recovered. wintertime stresses discussed above under dormancy. When I have separated plants DORMANCY: I have not found the in the summer, they have become well Heliamphora to enter a true dormancy established by fall. I cannot recall losing period under my growing conditions. even one of those plants. Dividing the New leaves continue to be produced in the plants in early summer is generally in- winter, though at a lower frequency. compatible with producing seed and some However, flowering is confined to late compromise is necessary. This is the reason I spring through summer. Most of my attempted fall divisions last year. plant losses have occurred in winter. This I have found propagation by seed is may be the result of variable greenhouse difficult and growth of the seedlings is conditions. The plants definitely enter a very slow. Seed is not terribly difficult to period of reduced activity in winter. Typ- produce, given some patience, although, ically in winter, we have a week or so of as I stated earlier, my H. minor has never rainstorms followed by several days of flowered. Obtaining pollen while the stig- clearing before the next series of storms. ma is receptive is the greatest problem. During the storms, temperatures are cool The anthers ripen a week or so after the and light levels are quite low. During stigma ceases to be receptive to pollen. I the clearing periods, light levels increase have found that the stamens of H. nu- dramatically and the daytime temperature tans remain firmly attached to the flower in my greenhouse can reach 25°C. I feel even as the ovaries become enlarged, this variability in temperature and light whereas the stamens of H. heterodoxa during the winter stresses the plants and become detached shortly after the anthers predisposes them to disease. ripen. Pollen from H. nutans can be easily obtained by lightly teasing the PROPAGATION: I have found all anthers with a small stick. The same ac- Volume 8 • September 1979 91 tivity simply detaches the stamens of H. ly slowly and eventually will die within a heterodoxa without yielding pollen. How- year, having reached a size of less than 5 ever, pollen can be extracted from H. mm. If the seedlings are transplanted to heterodoxa by breaking the anther in half live sphagnum, they become quickly over and twirling the halves between the fin- topped by the moss. I have had such gers. Pollen, once obtained, can then be seedlings which, at the end of 2 years, placed on a new flower in which the pet- were only about 15 mm tall. The very als have just opened. I have found the small and brittle root of the seedling is stigma to be receptive for only a couple of very easily damaged. Even a drop of wa- days after the petals open. ter can break it. Thus, I have had very poor success growing Heliamphora from Last year I attempted to produce H. seed. heterodoxa x nutans* and H. nutans x heterodoxa hybrids. I was successful in AVAILABILITY: I have a very limited obtaining mature seeds which appeared number of Heliamphora plants for sev- normal in all respects, but none of the 6 eral reasons. First, I have very little space in persons I sent the seed to were able to which to grow them. However, the primary germinate it. There also appears to be reason is that I feel this is a very some differences in success in pollinating the beautiful plant and I would like others two species. Assigning a value of 100 for a to have the opportunity to grow it. Over full complement of mature seed, actual the years I have given away several hundred seed production from H. heterodoxa x plants to CPN members. I have no idea heterodoxa would rate a value of about 80, how many of those plants are now alive. I no longer have the time to correspond, H. nutans x nutans about 40, H. heterodoxa package, and ship plants, so now all of my x nutans about 60, and H. nutans x plants are distributed through WIP as heterodoxa about 20. I must reiterate that they become available. Any requests for these are uncontrolled and limited results the plants should be directed to WIP.* based on one season's observations.