ABSTRACT Title of Document: ‘FRIED CHICKEN BELONGS TO ALL OF US’: THE ZOOARCHAEOLOGY OF ENSLAVED FOODWAYS ON THE LONG GREEN, WYE HOUSE (18TA314), TALBOT COUNTY, MARYLAND Amanda Tang, Ph.D. 2014 Directed By: Professor Mark P. Leone, Department of Anthropology This project analyzes the zooarchaeological remains excavated from three slave quarters, located on the Long Green of the Wye House Plantation (18TA314). The zooarchaeological data used dates from about 1650 until 1865. The dissertation focuses on how the late 18th century – archaeologically c. 1770 – was a period of immense change at Wye House and this caused coinciding changes in food consumption. Faunal data is combined with historical and archaeological information to assess the validity of utilizing African-American food patterns. The dissertation interrogates the role of archaeologists in reifying racism and in the reproduction of inferior histories for African-Americans based on dominant narratives. The research incorporates the consideration of other social, political, historical, and economic variables to assess the development of local and regional cuisines. This dissertation evaluates why designations of Soul Food and African-American foodways emerged, how this cuisine compares to Southern Cooking, and the ideologies behind keeping the two cuisines separate. ‘FRIED CHICKEN BELONGS TO ALL OF US’: THE ZOOARCHAEOLOGY OF ENSLAVED FOODWAYS ON THE LONG GREEN, WYE HOUSE (18TA314), TALBOT COUNTY, MARYLAND By Amanda Tang Dissertation submitted to the Faculty of the Graduate School of the University of Maryland, College Park, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy 2014 Advisory Committee: Professor Mark P. Leone, Chair Dr. Holly Brewer Dr. George Hambrecht Dr. Matthew Palus Professor Paul A. Shackel © Copyright by Amanda Tang 2014 Dedication I would have never had the chance to achieve so much without my parents, Ken and Lynn Tang. I dedicate this dissertation to them, my biggest fans. ii Acknowledgements There were so many people who have guided me and given me support on the long road of completing this degree. First and foremost, I have to thank Mark Leone. Mark believed in me and had the confidence in my potential that I did not initially have. Over the years, he has given me more opportunities than I could have ever imagined possible and he taught me how to be a professional scholar. If Mark was the father-like figure in Archaeology in Annapolis, my friends and lab mates were my siblings. They have had the greatest impact on my intellectual musings and personal sanity. Jocelyn Knauf, my work-wife, has been with me from the beginning since that first day of orientation when I asked if the seat next to her was free. Matthew Cochran, Matthew Palus, John Blair (more on him later!), and Stephanie Duensing were there to teach me the ropes of AiA when I first joined. Coming to our project later, I owe many great times to my friends Kate Deeley, Ben Skolnik, Beth Pruitt, Stefan Woehlke, and Tracy Jenkins. And though not part of our project, I owe many conversations about theory and all sorts of silly things to Mike Roller. I would like to thank the Tilghman family for their continuing enthusiasm about our archaeological project at their home. The late Mrs. Tilghman was an incredible woman and an inspiration. Without her, studying cooking on this plantation would have never occurred to me. Richard and Beverly have always been so willing to let us dig holes all over their beautiful landscape. Their staff, Ed, Roman, and their crews, made it possible for us to complete each field season. iii Big thanks also to Harriet Lowery and the community of Unionville. Our project is indebted to Harriet for all the doors she has opened to make our work possible and relevant. I’d like to thank my committee members, Holly Brewer, Paul Shackel, Matthew Palus, and George Hambrecht, for their comments and for pushing me to produce the best dissertation possible. Thanks for your flexibility and for believing in my work. I owe so much to Mindy Zeder for allowing me to join her lab at the MSC. Mindy also loaned me the very first additions to my type collection. Thanks to Adam Watson and Zelalem Assefa for teaching me how to be a great zooarchaeologist and for letting me work on their assemblages. My Intro to Zooarchaeology classes have been such a pleasure to teach. The help of my students in analyzing parts of the assemblage was invaluable. I’d like to especially thank my wonderful TAs, Ashley Dickerson, Zak Andrews, and Justin Uehlein. Of course, I thank the dozens of AiA field school and lab students who processed the huge amount of artifacts that we excavated each season. Jim Gibb has always been incredibly generous with his time and networks in the area. He once told me that he always helps out because so many people have helped him. One of the things Jim did was put me in contact with April Beisaw. Not having ever met me, April gave me her faunal databases and helped me create my own when I was totally stupefied by the one I had. Amy Speckart gave me so much advice and her own transcripts of the Lloyd archival material. I wouldn’t have known where to start without her guidance. iv I have to thank my undergraduate advisor Barrett Brenton. It was because of him that I joined the archaeology program at the University of York to study abroad. Barry encouraged me to attend graduate school and that studying historical archaeology with Mark Leone was the right path for me. He was so right. I could have never done any of this without my family. My parents have done so much to get me to where I am today. I hope that my achievements make them proud since they never had the opportunities to do the same. My brother, Jeffrey, is my permanent partner in crime and his easy-going manner pairs well with my tendency towards anxiety. I’d like to thank my best friends Cassie Burke and Tracy Pho for never allowing me to quit. Tracy also edited my work, and her lawyerly conciseness helped to make me understandable. Though they may not comprehend it, I owe a great deal to my dogs, Remy and Linca. In the final writing stages, they were my co-workers and were a pleasant distraction from hours of staring at the computer. Finally, I thank my soon-to-be husband John Blair. You see credits sprinkled throughout as he created most of the images in this dissertation. He is also cited regularly as he composed many of the early AiA site reports used. Besides for teaching me everything I needed to know about AiA in the beginning, John has always been my greatest ally in the project. His early friendship, advice, and jovial demeanor made AiA something I wanted to be a part of. Later, his love and optimism made the completion of this dissertation possible. He has helped me through the unrelenting number of obstacles and has gently urged me to keep on trucking when I wanted to give up. From day to day, and from start to finish, I owe this dissertation to my partner and love, John. v Table of Contents Dedication ..................................................................................................................... ii Acknowledgements ...................................................................................................... iii List of Tables ............................................................................................................. viii List of Figures .............................................................................................................. ix Chapter 1: Introduction ................................................................................................. 1 Chapter 2: Archaeology in Annapolis on the Eastern Shore ...................................... 22 Project Background and Development ................................................................... 22 Critical Archaeology in the City of Annapolis ....................................................... 24 Archaeology of African-Americans ........................................................................ 29 Archaeology at the Wye House Plantation ............................................................. 34 Chapter 3: Context of Wye House .............................................................................. 40 A Note about the Historical Documentation ........................................................... 42 Before the Lloyds (Pre-17th Century) ..................................................................... 47 Early Lloyd and the Founding of Wye House ........................................................ 50 Edward Lloyd I ................................................................................................... 50 Philemon Lloyd ................................................................................................... 52 Edward Lloyd II .................................................................................................. 54 Edward Lloyd III ................................................................................................. 57 The Lloyds and their Holdings in the late-18th through mid-19th Centuries ........... 61 Edward Lloyd IV ................................................................................................ 61 Edward Lloyd V .................................................................................................. 74 Edward Lloyd VI ................................................................................................ 95 Edward Lloyd VII ............................................................................................