Food Preparation and Presentation Fourth edition M. J. Leto, MHCIMA W. K. H. Bode, Mphil, MHCIMA DipHot(Göt) AMSTERDAM • BOSTON • HEIDELBERG • LONDON • NEW YORK OXFORD • PARIS • SAN DIEGO • SAN FRANCISCO SINGAPORE • SYDNEY • TOKYO Butterworth-Heinemann is an imprint of Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann is an imprint of Elsevier Linacre House, Jordan Hill, Oxford OX2 8DP, UK 30 Corporate Drive, Suite 400, Burlington, MA 01803, USA First published 1969 Second Edition 1975 Reprinted 1977, 1980, 1981, 1984, 1985, 1986 First published as a paperback edition 1987 Reprinted 1988 Third edition 1989 Reprinted 1990, 1992, 1993, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 2000 Transferred to digital printing 2003 Fourth edition 2006 Copyright © 1969, 1975, 1989, 2006, M. J. Leto and W. K. H. Bode. Published by Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved The right of M. J. Leto and W. K. H. Bode to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the publisher Permissions may be sought directly from Elsevier’s Science & Technology Rights Department in Oxford, UK: phone (+44) (0) 1865 843830; fax (+44) (0) 1865 853333; email: [email protected]. Alternatively you can submit your request online by visiting the Elsevier web site at http://elsevier.com/locate/permissions, and selecting Obtaining permission to use Elsevier material Notice No responsibility is assumed by the publisher for any injury and/or damage to persons or property as a matter of products liability, negligence or otherwise, or from any use or operation of any methods, products, instructions or ideas contained in the material herein. Because of rapid advances in the medical sciences, in particular, independent verification of diagnoses and drug dosages should be made British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Leto, M. J. (Mario Jack), 1910–1994 The larder chef : food preparation and presentation. – 4th ed. 1. Cookery 2. Quantity cookery I. Title II. Bode, W. K. H. (Willi Karl Heinrich), 1931–641.5 ISBN–13: 978-0-75-066899-6 ISBN–10: 0-75-066899-7 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Library of Congress Control Number: 2006922294 For information on all Butterworth-Heinemann publications visit our web site at books.elsevier.com Printed and bound in Great Britain 060708091010987654321 Contents Preface ix 1 THE LARDER CHEF 1 The Function of the Larder Department 1 Breakdown of Work 1 Responsibilities of the Chef Garde-Manger 2 Larder Control 2 Stock Sheet 2 Liaison with Kitchen and Pastry Department 3 Use of Refrigerators and Freezers 7 Refrigerators 7 Use of Deep Freezers 7 Types of Deep Freezer 10 Freezer Management 11 Withdrawal 12 Use and Care of Machinery and Utensils 13 2 STARTERS 19 Classification of Starters 20 Single Starters 21 Some Classical Single Cold 21 Mixed Starters 59 3 SALADS, SALAD DRESSINGS AND COLD SAUCES 61 Salad Dressings 61 Salad Presentations 62 Suitable Dressings 65 Leaf Salads 65 Single Vegetable Salads 68 Mixed Vegetable Salads 68 Compound Salads 72 Service of Salads 84 Hot Salads 84 Cold Sauces 85 Mayonnaise 85 Cocktail Sauce 86 The Coulis 86 Divers Cold Sauces 89 v vi Contents Compound Butters 92 Marinades 93 4 FISH, SHELLFISH AND CRUSTACEANS 95 Fish 95 Nutritional Value 96 Types of Fish 96 Quality and Storage of Fish 97 Classification of Fish 98 Preparation of Fish for Cooking 98 Shellfish and Crustaceans 104 Different Preparations for Culinary Use 106 Boiled/Poached Fish 106 Grilled and Fried Fish 118 Other Preparations 120 5 POULTRY AND GAME 122 Poultry 122 Quality 122 Market Types 122 Preparation of Chicken 123 Preparation of Turkey 130 Ducks and Ducklings 131 Geese 132 Guinea Fowl and Pigeon 132 Game 132 Feathered Game 133 Furred Game 135 6 BUTCHERY 140 Beef 141 Skeletal Formation 141 Jointing or Dissection 143 Preparation and Use of Joints and Cuts 146 Veal 155 Dissection 156 Preparation and use of Joints and Cuts 156 Lamb and Mutton 162 Dissection 164 Preparation and Use of Joints and Cuts 165 Pork 170 Dissection 171 Contents vii Preparation and Use of Joints and Cuts 171 Preparation of a Boar’s Head for Buffet Display 175 Bacon, Gammon and Hams 177 Preparation of Joints and Cuts from a Side of Bacon 177 Gammon 178 Hams 179 The Offals 183 7 FORCEMEATS, GARNISHES AND SEASONINGS 188 Raw Fish Forcemeats 188 The Fish Farces 189 Raw Meat Forcemeats 194 The Simple Forcemeats 195 The Finer Forcemeats 199 Meat Quenelles 201 The Mousses, Mousselines and Soufflés 201 Simple Cooked Forcemeats 203 Cooked Meat Forcemeats 204 Cooked Fish Forcemeats 205 Garnishes 207 Fruits of the Sea 209 Content 209 Seasonings 210 Salts and Single Spices 210 Mixed or Compound Spices 214 Herbs 217 Condiments and Sauces 220 Brines, Marinades and Pickles 221 8 THE BUFFET CHEF 225 Preparations 225 Cold Buffets 226 The Finger Buffet 226 The Fork Buffet 227 Aids to Preparation and Presentation 230 The Modern Cold Buffet 234 The Classical Buffet 234 Room Layouts and Buffet Shapes 246 The Scandinavian Buffet or Smörgåsbord 246 Sandwiches 253 Open Sandwiches (Smørrebrød) 259 viii Contents 9 THE CHEESES 270 Varieties of Cheese 271 Fresh White Cheeses 271 Soft Cheeses 271 Blue Cheeses 271 Semi-Hard Cheeses 276 Hard Cheeses 277 Cheese on the Menu 279 The Cheese Board 280 Cheese Dishes 280 10 LARDER ADMINISTRATION 281 The Costing Sheet 281 Explanation of the Costing Sheet 281 Classical European Menu Structure 282 Culinary Terminology and Vocabulary in Six Languages 288 Foods in Season 307 Plated Service 312 Index 314 Preface It is now 35 years since The Larder Chef was first published. Since its first edition in 1969 we have had a Second Edition in 1975 with several reprints, then in 1988 the new Paperback Edition was published, and a metric Third Edition followed in 1989, when Jack Leto was still with us for help and guidance. The Larder Chef has sold worldwide in most English-speaking countries, and some that are not. Personally I have been asked to sign often long-held copies in Boston, Budapest, Hamburg, London, New Orleans, Stockholm, and in the depths of Dorset. The book was intended as a text for catering students of all types and levels, and we were thus pleasantly surprised when a good percentage of copies were bought by the general public, as well as hotel, restaurant and butchery managers and staff. We have always been grateful for their comments, suggestions for inclusions or changes, and criticisms received over the years. These were always considered when a new edition was prepared. But for some time now I have felt that The Larder Chef needed a more radical update, to reflect the considerable changes that have taken place in our industry. For this purpose I approached 80 chefs and their managers with a questionnaire, asking for answers to 30 questions. I contacted establishments in an area roughly bounded by Exeter and London, Oxford and Bournemouth. I had a remarkable 84% response, with very honest answers and very reflective comments. My grateful thanks to you all. The results of my survey clearly showed a split in the approach to preparation and service of food in our industry today. Food Service may contrast between the very fast, medium fast and slow, and Food Quality and Presentation may range from the very poor, acceptable to good, and very good and expensive. These different approaches are well expressed in two drawings reproduced here from the observant eye of Swiss artist Paul André Parret. My survey also showed that today: • 4% still bought a hindquarter of beef or carcass of lamb on a weekly basis • 72% bought most of their joints ready for the oven • 78% bought all of their different types of steak ready cut to required size or weight • 30% bought their steaks frozen • 80% bought only frozen fish, a necessity in many places as very little good fresh fish is available. Given this information, how was I to write or bring up to date a cookery textbook that would be of help to all and meet most needs? Clearly with some difficulties! Looking at the rest of the answers to my survey, the picture looks much better: 90% of all hors d’oeuvres were prepared fresh, most of the salads, all of the vegetables and most potatoes, and all buffets, if simpler Modern versions, were made fresh in house. I am well aware that today many of the tasks described in this book have been taken over by manufacturers who, by applying mass production techniques, are able to supply many of the partly prepared needs of the caterer in some form or other. But The Larder Chef has been written primarily as a textbook for students, or young chefs who wish to widen their knowledge, or check on facts or approach in respect to a given task in hand. Both should learn to distinguish between a spring chicken or a ix x Preface The intimidated guest The intimidated waiter Preface xi boiling fowl, a pheasant and a guinea fowl and how to prepare them for the pan or pot. He or she should know the difference between a sardine or a sprat, a lemon sole or a Dover sole, whether fresh or frozen. It will be useful to them to be able to distinguish between a rump and a sirloin, to have a good knowledge of other cuts of meats, their size, weight and cost, the quality, and portions to be had, from said weight.