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Neolithic Dairy Technology at the European-Anatolian Frontier: Implications of Archaeozoological Evidence from Ulucak Höyük, İzmir, Turkey, ca. 7000-5700 cal. BC Canan ÇAKIRLAR Dr. Rer. Nat. (Universitair docent) University of GroningenGroningen Institute of ArchaeologyPoststraat 6, NL-9712 ER Groningen (Netherlands) [email protected] Çakırlar C. 2012. – Neolithic Dairy Technology at the European-Anatolian Frontier: Implications of Archaeozoological Evidence from Ulucak Höyük, İzmir, Turkey, ca. 7000- 5700 cal. BC. Anthropozoologica 47.2 : 79-100. This paper discusses the archaeozoological evidence from Neolithic Ulucak Höyük (İzmir, ca. 7000-5700 cal. BC) in light of current debates on early dairy technologies. The paper aims to add new dimension to the current understanding of the role western Anatolia played in the evolution of early animal husbandry systems towards wider applications of dairy technologies. The evidence from Ulucak can potentially shed important new infor- mation on how these technologies were exchanged across the European-Anatolian frontier. KEYWORDS To explore the appearance and evolution of milk use at Ulucak, the paper evaluates two Neolithic dispersals Anatolia main lines of archaeozoological data: mortality profiles – the most tangible archaeozoologi- Ulucak cal evidence to detect the ways in which domestic animals were exploited (Payne 1973; Vi- archaeozoology gne and Helmer 2007), and diachronic changes in the contribution of cattle to subsistence milk exploitation economy, with reference to Evershed et al. (2008)’s proposal about a cattle-dairy link in secondary products animal husbandry northwestern Turkey. Results from Neolithic Ulucak are assessed in the context of relevant mortality profiles evidence from neighbouring sites in western Anatolia. RéSUMé La technologie laitière néolithique à la frontière de l'Europe et de l'Anatolie (Ulucak Höyük, İzmir, Turquie, ca. 7000-5700 av. BC.) : apports de l'archéozoologie Cet article présente les résultats de l'étude archéozoologique du site néolithique d’Ulu- cak Höyük (Izmir, 7000-5700 av. J.-C.) à la lumière des débats actuels sur la naissance des technologies laitières. Il vise à apporter une nouvelle dimension à la compréhension du rôle joué par l'Anatolie occidentale dans l'évolution des premiers systèmes d'élevage d'animaux vers un développement plus large des technologies laitières. Le site d'Ulucak Höyük peut apporter des nouvelles informations déterminantes sur la manière dont ces technologies ont été échangées à la frontière entre l’Europe et l’Anatolie. Pour mettre en évidence l'apparition et l'évolution de l'utilisation de lait à Ulucak, cette étude prend en MOTS CLÉS compte deux grands types de données archéozoologiques : les profils de mortalité – qui diffusions du Néolithique Anatolie sont les données archéozoologiques les plus fiables pour mettre en évidence les manières Ulucak dont des animaux domestiques ont été exploités (Payne 1973 ; Vigne & Helmer 2007) et archéozoologie l’évolution de la contribution des bovins à l’économie de subsistance – conformément à la exploitation laitière et al. produits secondaires proposition d'Evershed (2008) concernant les relations entre bovins et exploitation du élevage lait en Turquie du Nord-Ouest. Les résultats du Neolithique d’Ulucak sont interprétés dans profils de mortalité le contexte des connaissances acquises à propos des sites voisins d’Anatolie occidentale. ANTHROPOZOOLOGICA • 2012 • 47.2. © Publications Scientifiques du Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle, Paris. Çakırlar C. Introduction AND background sistence in present European populations and research suggesting its relation to Neolithic One of the most important debates in population movements (Burger et al. 2007; Eurasian prehistory concerns the origins and Gerbault et al. 2009; Itan et al. 2009) have both intensification of secondary products use, fuelled and complemented the production of i.e. the innovation and development of ways data testing the dairy aspect. The recently ac- to exploit life-time products (milk, fleece or quired ability to distinguish carcass fat from wool, and traction power) from domesticated milk fat in archaeological lipid residues using bovids. Although whether secondary products stable carbon isotopic signatures was first put to were used by ancient societies has been a test in Europe, revealing that dairy production topic of primary interest for a long time was an aspect of early Neolithic economies in (Flannery 1965; Payne 1973; Bökönyi 1974), southeastern Europe before 5000 BC (Dudd & the so-called “Secondary Products Revolution” Evershed 1998; Copley et al. 2003, 2005). Pot- model formulated by A. Sherratt (1981) has tery remains from a number of Neolithic sites become the trigger for much of the debate between southeastern Europe and the southern thereafter (for the most recent discussions, Levant analysed with this method showed vig- see: Greenfield 2010; Marciniak 2011). While orous lipid residue evidence for dairy process- the success of Sherratt’s model came from its ing in northwestern Turkey, some dating to ca. theoretical integrity emphasizing a complex, 6400-6200 BC (Evershed et al. 2008; Thissen supra-regional process involving a chain of et al. 2010). Estimations of the contribution of novelties in farming and transport technology beef to the meat yields based on faunal remains that led to the emergence of chiefdoms and from these sites led Evershed and his colleagues state-level societies (Sherratt 1981), much of (2008: Fig. 4) to link the strong milk signature the research stimulated by Sherratt’s ideas has from these sites with the relative importance of deviated from the model’s framework into a cattle herding in the Neolithic of this region in quest for the chronological and geographical comparison to other Neolithic settlements that origins of secondary products. Differences in displayed weaker evidence for dairy processing. approach and priority (origins vs. intensification The impact of this research was immediately leading to large-scale social impact) generated a reflected in recent theoretical discussions about growing corpus of research suggesting that the the role western Anatolia played in the dispersals use of secondary products may not have been as of Neolithic subsistence systems from south- negligible prior to ca. 5000-4000 BC as Sherratt’s west Asia into Europe (Çilingiroğlu 2009a: 74, model had proposed (e.g., Vigne & Helmer 357; Brami & Heyd 2011; Düring 2011: 197; 2007). Unlike earlier discussions concerning Özdoğan 2011). secondary products (e.g. Bogucki 1984, 1986; These discussions focused mainly on the northern Greenfield 1988; McCormick 1992), recent parts of western Turkey, where subsistence evi- arguments are equipped with large series of dence has been available since the 1970s (Buiten- coordinated analyses of archaeozoological huis 1995). Central western Anatolia (Fig. 1), assemblages from early farming contexts a niche of crucial interest to the transformation in southwest Asia and western Europe that and transmission of Neolithic life ways (French demonstrates the diachronic diversity of human 1965; Perlès 2001; Özdoğan 2005), has remained preferences in applying animal husbandry marginal to these debates, primarily due to the technologies (Helmer et al. 2007). underdeveloped state of research in this area. Amongst these debates, the issue of dairy tech- Neolithic settlements in this area have been ex- nology has attracted arguably the most atten- plored only since the mid 1990s (Çilingiroğlu et tion. The question of the origin of lactase per- al. 2004; Çilingiroğlu & Abay 2005; Çilingiroğlu 78 ANTHROPOZOOLOGICA • 2012 • 47. 2. Neolithic Dairy Technology at the European-Anatolian Frontier Figure 1.– Location of sites mentioned in the text. & Çilingiroğlu 2007; Derin 2007; Sağlamtimur debates, to add a fresh dimension to the cur- 2007; Derin et al. 2009). Moreover, the system- rent understanding of the role Anatolia played atic investigation of subsistence in Neolithic cul- in the evolution of early animal husbandry tures of the region was initiated as late as 2008; systems towards wider applications of dairy and then only at Ulucak Höyük, where excava- technology and how these technologies were tions since 1995 are largely responsible for stimu- exchanged across the European-Anatolian fron- lating most of the subsequent Neolithic research tier. To achieve this aim, the paper explores two in central western Anatolia. main lines of archaeozoological data: mortality This paper discusses the archaeozoological evi- profiles – the most tangible archaeozoological dence from Neolithic Ulucak Höyük (ca. 7000- evidence to detect the ways in which domestic 5700 cal. BC) in light of the above mentioned animals were exploited (Payne 1973; Vigne & ANTHROPOZOOLOGICA • 2012 • 47. 2. 79 Çakırlar C. Helmer 2007), and diachronic changes in the surrounded by ashy deposits. All Level VI de- contribution of cattle to subsistence economy posits are entirely devoid of pottery and other with reference to Evershed et al. (2008)’s pro- clay objects (Çilingiroğlu & Çevik, forthcom- posal about a cattle-dairy link in northwestern ing), representing the only radiocarbon dated Anatolia. Results from Neolithic Ulucak are ‘aceramic’ Neolithic in western Anatolia. Pot- evaluated in the context of relevant evidence tery at Ulucak appears in the subsequent from neighbouring regions in Anatolia. Level V, along with wattle and daub architec- ture. An exception to the architectural styles

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