BRAND EXTENSIONS INTO THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY BY LUXURY FASHION LABELS AND NATIONAL IDENTITY: THE CASES OF HOTEL MISSONI EDINBURGH AND MAISON MOSCHINO Alice Dallabona A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of Nottingham Trent University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy November 2014 1 Copyright statement This work is the intellectual property of the author. You may copy up to 5% of this work for private study, or personal, non-commercial research. Any re-use of the information contained within this document should be fully referenced, quoting the author, title, university, degree level and pagination. Queries or requests for any other use, or if a more substantial copy is required, should be directed in the owner of the Intellectual Property Rights. 2 Table of Contents Copyright statement...............................................................................................................2 List of Figures........................................................................................................................7 Acknowledgements..............................................................................................................11 Abstract................................................................................................................................12 Chapter One Introduction..........................................................................................................................13 Chapter Two Hotel Missoni Edinburgh and Maison Moschino: from fashion to nation...........................25 2.1 Introduction...............................................................................................................25 2.2 Spaces of fashion.......................................................................................................26 2.3 From fashion to lifestyle............................................................................................28 2.4 Stretching the brand...................................................................................................30 2.5 Hotel Missoni Edinburgh and Maison Moschino: luxury, masstige and the symbolic power of brands..........................................................................................................................36 2.6 Beyond the brand.......................................................................................................44 Chapter Three Methodology........................................................................................................................48 3.1 Introduction...............................................................................................................48 3.2 Rationale for the methodology..................................................................................49 3.3 Semiotics and Socio-semiotics..................................................................................51 3 3.4 Case studies...............................................................................................................54 3.5 Data and materials.....................................................................................................58 3.6 Limits of the study.....................................................................................................62 Chapter Four Hospitality Missoni style......................................................................................................66 4.1 Introduction...............................................................................................................66 4.2 A case of Missonification..........................................................................................67 4.3 Family matters ..........................................................................................................77 4.4 At home with the Missonis........................................................................................84 4.5 Conclusions...............................................................................................................91 Chapter Five Italia in Cucina.....................................................................................................................92 5.1 Introduction...............................................................................................................92 5.2 Italian language..........................................................................................................93 5.3 Local dishes and recipes............................................................................................96 5.4 Italian ingredients and produce..................................................................................99 5.5 Italian gustatory isotopy and Italian culinary style..................................................103 5.6 Family and the domestic..........................................................................................106 5.7 Sociality, conviviality, informality and friendliness................................................108 5.8 Conclusions..............................................................................................................111 Chapter Six Hospitality Moschino style.................................................................................................113 6.1 Introduction..............................................................................................................113 4 6.2 A Moschino's world.................................................................................................114 6.3 The context of Maison Moschino............................................................................125 6.4 From fashion to design: the pillars of “Made in Italy”............................................128 6.5 Conclusions ............................................................................................................135 Chapter Seven Clandestino Milano............................................................................................................137 7.1 Introduction............................................................................................................137 7.2 Moschino & Food....................................................................................................138 7.3 Fashion & food at Clandestino Milano....................................................................143 7.4 Clandestino Milano & Italianicity...........................................................................152 7.4a Use of Italian ingredients and references to the Italian gustatory isotopy........154 7.4b Deconstruction of traditional recipes ...............................................................155 7.4c Of /being/ and /seeming/ Italian........................................................................157 7.5 Conclusions.............................................................................................................160 Chapter Eight Hotel Missoni Edinburgh, Maison Moschino and Italianicity...........................................163 8.1 Introduction.............................................................................................................163 8.2 The importance of being Italian...............................................................................164 8.2a Differentiation .................................................................................................165 8.2b A competitive advantage...................................................................................166 8.2c A reserve for brands..........................................................................................170 8.3 A tale of two Italies..................................................................................................172 8.3a Missoni and the Italian family...........................................................................173 8.3b The creativity of Moschino...............................................................................176 5 8.3c Know-how.........................................................................................................178 8.4 Conclusions.............................................................................................................183 Chapter Nine Conclusions........................................................................................................................185 Appendix 1 Full profile of respondents.................................................................................................193 Appendix 2 Profile of Hotel Missoni Edinburgh...................................................................................194 Appendix 3 Profile of Maison Moschino...............................................................................................195 Bibliography.......................................................................................................................197 6 List of Figures Figure 1: Detail of the Missoni Hotel Edinburgh logo engraved in stone on the façade. Figure 2: detail of the elevator at Missoni Hotel Edinburgh (Copyright Alice Dallabona 2010). Figure 3: detail of the elevator and toilet sign at Missoni Hotel Edinburgh (Copyright Alice Dallabona 2010). Figure 4: detail of the signature zig-zag pattern of Missoni Hotel Edinburgh. Figure 5: Staff in kilt at Missoni Hotel Edinburgh (Copyright Alice Dallabona 2010). Figure 6: The curved Missoni decorative canvas in Cucina