POST 11 – MONDAY JULY 31ST 1865 – from Zermatt JULY N°11 31ST 2015 The Story So Far The Ofcial Enquiry into the his footing, slipped, and the tragedy that followed the rope that tied him to Michel first ascent of the Matterhorn Croz, Charles Hudson and took two days to reach a Lord Francis Douglas pulled verdict. No details have been them all to their deaths. Mr released but it was established Whymper has been allowed that an accident occurred to return home. after Douglas Hadow lost MATTERHORN 2015 Newsletter Something strange is going on hrough my contacts I managed a glance at the transcripts of the Post 11 — Monday July 31st 1865 T from Zermatt court sessions, but now it seems those documents are hidden Something strange is going on away as if they did not exist. Mr Whymper was most upset when Herr Clemenz, the presiding Judge, reneged on his promise 150 Years Ago — to supply to him the answers First Ascent of the that Peter Taugwalder gave. I fear I must take care not to be Matterhorn too public about my privileged information, but would say that I find the evidence most frustrat- ing. Possibly Herr Clemenz was The Rope that Broke trying to be kind to Taugwalder by not pursuing the issue of the It is Summer 1865 choice of rope, but I feel these otherwise. I find it unlikely that ugly rumours would have been Old Peter maliciously used a more easily squashed if clarifi- weaker rope between himself And how many un- witness their achievements cation had been obtained and and Lord Francis Douglas from climbed Alpine peaks will and post back my reports. published. the fact that they enjoyed an have been conquered by Many of the summits of Europe excursion together on the the time the cool damp have been conquered over Old Peter’s Choice Gabelhorn only a fortnight air of Autumn returns? the last fifty years, those of Rope ago. Would he condemn to left must rank as among the I was talking to some locals death so excellent a client? Mountaineers, many of them most challenging. Grandes about what Peter Taugwalder And the party had with them British, are planning their Jorasses, Aiguille Verte, said about the rope. It seems copious amounts of rope. routes and engaging their Matterhorn – who will be the that the word I understood Even if the men in front had favourite local guides to first to set foot on your proud in English as “special” might used up one length, he still had assist. So I, whose scrib- peaks? have been the word they a choice of types of rope. But blings usually cover London use in their dialect meaning he called this rope “special”. society events and gossip, simply “another”. Even so, my Here’s a theory – have packed my notebooks conclusion is that Taugwalder and pens with my climbing believed the rope he used to Last Monday, the Marquess ropes and nailed boots. I will be sufciently strong, and Queensberry, brother of follow those intrepid climbers, there is no reason to think Lord Francis, arrived in town. POST 11 – MONDAY JULY 31ST 1865 – from Zermatt While sorting through his lost sibling’s afairs, he found Leaving Zermatt and reaching the an article Lord Francis had town of Visp penned about the Gabelhorn ascent with Taugwalder. It almost ended in tragedy when the cornice on the peak broke. They would both have tumbled to their deaths but were saved by the rope that tied them to the other guide, Viannin from Zinal. It is highly possible that this was the same sort of rope as that which broke on the Matterhorn. If such a rope had so recently saved his life, it is hardly surprising that Old Peter would consider it “special”. still alive on some rocky ledge. All night he roamed and it is miraculous he had not met his Jean Baptiste own death on the unforgiving Kennington Road near Whymper’s home in Lambeth Croz is lamen- mountain. ting loudly that brought about the slip, Also bewitched by grief is and Mr Whymper’s reticence the loss of his Jean Baptiste Croz, who to say anything further is brave brother. has been here to collect the allowing much imaginative belongings of Michel. He is conjecture. lamenting loudly the loss Inconsolable Grief of his brave brother and the The Leader in The Times has Lord Francis’ brother is quite argued stridently how such www.matterhorn2015.ch deranged in his sorrow and adventures in the mountains Experience the 1st we fear for his safety. On result in such tragic waste of The furore Ascent of the Friday last he went missing. lives. A public thrilled by the has reached Matterhorn “live” on Mr McCormick organised spectacle of violent death the web. a search which found the London. – especially I might venture Marquess high up on the when it involves a member Imprint Hörnli, hysterical and calling of an aristocratic family and Contact to his brother as if to find him impact this will have on the a respected clergyman – is [email protected] whole family. He returned joining in. www.matterhorn2015.ch yesterday to Chamonix, and Copyright 4iS Four Eyes Ltd. I fear that the rest of that I have no heart Dufourstrasse 118 town will pick quickly up on anymore to remain in Postfach 1446 9001 St. Gallen the accusations being made these mountains Chief Editor against the Taugwalders. This But having been so close to Sara Randell will do nothing for the tension such tragic events, I shall keep Editorial Advisors already manifest between the an open ear for information Dr. Hermann Biner Matthias Taugwalder inhabitants of these mountain that will fill the gaps. Surely the Stephen Venables towns. Report of the Enquiry will be German translation published soon and properly Nathalie Steindl Debate among our Alpine studied, or some other evi- Daniela Rodriguez-Bonelli Design Club members focuses on dence come to light. It is my www.plus-gestaltung.com the mountaineering mistakes suspicion that what happened on the Matterhorn in July 1865 will continue to be debated for Supported by Venture onto a many years to come. snow cornice on the top of the mountain and there is a good chance it might break beneath you www.tissot.ch.