Welcome to Rome Even in a country of exquisite cities like Italy, Rome is special. Epic, hot-blooded and achingly beautiful, it’s a heady mix of haunting ruins, awe-inspiring art, iconic monuments and vibrant street life. Rome’s historic cityscape, the result of 3000 years ROME of ad hoc urban development, is an exhilarating spectacle. Ancient icons such as the Colosseum, TOP SIGHTS, AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES Roman Forum and Pantheon recall its golden age as caput mundi (capital of the world), while barn- storming basilicas testify to its historical role as seat of the Catholic Church. The city’s artistic heritage is also astonishing. Throughout history, Rome has starred in the great upheavals of Western art, drawing the top artists of the day and inspiring them to push the boundaries of creative achievement. The result is a city awash with priceless treasures. Ancient statues adorn world-class museums, Byzantine mosaics and Renaissance frescoes dazzle in art-rich churches, baroque fountains embellish medieval piazzas. Walk around the centre and without even trying you’ll come across masterpieces by the likes of Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Raphael and Bernini. But a trip to Rome is as much about lapping up the dolce vita lifestyle as gorging on art and culture. Whiling away hours at streetside cafes, idling on pretty piazzas, dining in boisterous neighbourhood trattorias – these are all an integral and enjoyable part of the Roman experience. Rome is special...epic, Duncan Garwood, Nicola Williams hot-blooded and achingly beautiful St Peter’s Basilica at dusk MAPICS/SHUTTERSTOCK © 000-title-opener-bo-rom3.indd0-title-opener-bo-rom3.indd 1 223/05/20183/05/2018 115:11:485:11:48 2# 0500m N# 00.25miles 2 PLAN YOUR TRIP ROME Villa Borghese & Northern Rome A Villa BorgheseEncompasses & the glorious park of Villa Museo e Basilica di NorthernBorghese Rome and the A Galleria Santa Maria city’s cultural hub. RMKE CITY Borghese 2# NEW RYO del Popolo (Map p256) A Tivoli Contents (32km) 2# A r Tridente, Trevi & the Via Plan Your Trip Margutta Quirinale Dining Out ................................117 Vatican A Tridente, Trevi This Year in Rome .................................4 Glamorous, debonair The Best .............................................120 A Museums Spanish A and touristy – this is Hotspots for… .....................................18 & the Quirinale Ancient Rome .........................................122 Steps Rome’s designer-clad A Top Days in Rome ............................. 20 Centro Storico ........................................122 2# Museo Nazionale soul. (Map p250, p252 St Peter's Palazzo A Need to Know .....................................28 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale .............. 126 Romano: Palazzo A & p256) What’s New ....................................... 30 Basilica Tiber River Trevi Barberini Massimo alle Terme Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ................... 129 For Free ...............................................31 Fountain A A Stazione Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ............ 131 2# Vatican City, Borgo Termini Family Travel .......................................32 Trastevere & Gianicolo ..........................134 Vatican Piazza & Prati Pantheon San Giovanni & Testaccio ......................137 City, NavonaA A Galleria Doria Home to aStazione stunning A Monti, Esquilino & Villa Borghese & Northern Rome......... 139 wealth ofSan artistic Pietro Pamphilj A Borgo 2# A San Lorenzo Top Experiences ....................... 35 Southern Rome .....................................140 treasures. (Map p253) Basilica di Monti, EsquilinoBusy areas, speckled & Prati A Colosseum .......................................... 36 Santa Maria & San withLorenzo glittering churches Vatican Museums ...............................40 and some cool Capitoline Maggiore St Peter’s Basilica .............................. 46 Treasure Hunt ........................ 143 restaurants. Basilica di Museums A Pantheon ............................................. 50 (Map p252 & 255) The Best .............................................146 Santa Maria A Museo e Galleria Borghese ............... 54 Centro Storico ........................................148 Isola Roman in Trastevere Tiberina Forum Colosseum o Palatino ................................................58 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale ...............152 A A Basilica di niam A Piazza Navona .....................................62 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ................... 156 A Palatino A San Clemente otto Nero Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ............157 A qued Ac Massimo alle Terme ........................... 66 Trastevere & Gianicolo ...........................159 Basilica di Capitoline Museums ...........................70 San Giovanni & Testaccio ......................161 San Giovanni A Via Appia Antica ..................................74 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome.......... 161 in Laterano Roman Forum.......................................78 Ancient Trevi Fountain ..................................... 84 Centro AncientRome Rome Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo ... 86 Bar Open ................................. 163 Centro Storico Basilica di San A Terme di No other city has The Best .............................................166 StoricoThe city’s tangled Giovanni in Laterano ..........................88 historic centre is Caracalla such an evocative Ancient Rome ........................................168 A ancient heart. (Map Spanish Steps..................................... 90 packed with incred- 2# Centro Storico .......................................168 r Day Trip: Ostia Antica .........................92 ible sights. (Map Ciampino Airport p246) Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale ...............170 (12km) Basilica di San Clemente .................. 94 p250) Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ....................170 Terme di Caracalla ............................. 96 Ostia Antica (22km) Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ............ 171 2# Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) r Modern Architecture.......................... 98 Stazione Trastevere & Gianicolo ...........................175 International Airport (26km) Basilica di Santa Roma-Ostia San Giovanni & Testaccio ......................177 Maria Maggiore .................................102 2# 2# Villa Borghese & Northern Rome..........179 Trastevere Treasures .........................104 Trastevere & Gianicolo San Giovanni & Southern Rome Southern Rome ......................................179 Enchantingly pretty, Testaccio Encompassing the Galleria Doria Pamphilj .....................106 with tangled lanes, Monumental basilicas, beautiful, historic Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica – AVia Appia ochre palazzi (palaces) Santowering Giovanni ruins, Antica SouthernVia Appia Antica and Palazzo Barberini ..............................108 Trastevereand a boho vibe. (Map traditional trattorias ancient catacombs. to Testaccio A Day Trip: Tivoli ................................... 110 & Gianicolop254) and thumping nightlife. Rome Centro Storico Piazzas .....................112 (Map p255) Literary Footsteps .............................114 000-title-opener-bo-rom3.indd0-title-opener-bo-rom3.indd 2 223/05/20183/05/2018 115:11:525:11:52 ROME PLAN YOUR TRIP 3 * Showtime .................................181 In Focus Rome Today .....................................208 Centro Storico .......................................184 History ..............................................210 Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale .............. 184 The Arts ............................................218 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati ................... 185 Architecture .................................... 222 Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo ........... 185 The Roman Way of Life ....................227 Trastevere & Gianicolo ..........................186 San Giovanni & Testaccio ......................187 Villa Borghese & Northern Rome......... 188 Southern Rome ..................................... 189 Survival Guide Directory A–Z .................................. 230 Active Rome ............................191 Transport ......................................... 234 Language ......................................... 238 Spectator Sports .................................. 194 Index ................................................ 240 Tours ...................................................... 194 Rome Maps ..................................... 245 Courses ..................................................197 Symbols & Map Key .........................257 Spas ........................................................197 Rest Your Head ...................... 199 Map Section Accommodation Types .........................202 Ancient Rome .........................................246 Seasons & Rates ...................................203 Getting There ........................................204 Centro Storico ........................................250 Useful Websites .....................................204 Trevi & Esquilino .....................................252 Vatican City, Borgo & Prati .....................253 Trastevere & Gianicolo ........................... 254 San Giovanni & San Lorenzo .................. 255 Villa Borghese ........................................ 256 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©, JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©, KIEV.VICTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, S.BORISOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JANNIS WERNER/GETTY IMAGES ©, MARCO RUBINO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, CATARINA BELOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK