The Limestone Coast lies between Melbourne and Adelaide and is a Off The Road treasure trove of natural wonders. Story and Photography by MIRIAM BLAKER e are parked on the cliff edge with a sive cave, like some mouth of a prehistoric by travelling to a cliff’s edge by four wheel precarious drop to the bottom and beast, which seems to beckon us inside to drive. Such is the dramatic nature of this Wmindful of the signs nearby which explore its musty interior. coastline. From secluded and pristine warn of the obvious dangers of getting too This secluded beach is on the Lime- beaches such as this one to gourmet food Exploring the close. We are content to admire the spec- stone Coast in South Australia which and history and adventure the Limestone tacular view of the coastline from above boasts some of the best beaches in the Coast offers diversity at every turn. until, on closer inspection, we discover a country. But none has the seclusion of this On a recent camping trip we sampled goat track carved into the side of the cliff. one. It is not far from Southend, a small the delights of this region on ten days of Clambering carefully to the bottom we find seaside village on the Southern Ports multi-generational camping with the fam- Limestone a pristine beach and in the distance a mas- Highway and this beach can only reached ily and Doug’s parents. Our trip started Settlers Beach near Cossack. 114 ON THE ROAD March 2015 www.ontheroad.com.au ON THE ROAD March 2015 115 Off The Road Explore the local cave but keep an eye on the tides. Spectacular sunset. Sometimes on the dunes a Driving the trails allowes you winch can be necessary. Take note of the danger. to get to some remote views. from Melbourne with an overnight stop in wildlife can be seen in abundance. Close Highway, which is a 177 kilometre journey Park, a small but extremely friendly cara- Gully Road. see one of the Geltwood anchors placed Hamilton to break up the roughly six and by is Lake Bonney and in the distance gi- in the south of the Limestone Coast. The van park. We met many regulars who had The Cape Buffon Walking Trail is an as a memorial to those who perished at a half hour drive. The temperature was in ant wind turbines dominate the Woakwine highway connects Millicent to Kingston been returning for over fifteen years. Julie easy loop walk that highlights how the sea. the low 40s and scorching and as we were Range skyline and comprise South Austra- via Southend, Beachport and Robe and Palmer, the new resident owner who had forces of wind and caves have shaped From Beachport to Robe also travelling with Harry our dog it was a lia’s largest wind turbine farm. is an alternative to the busy B1 Princes taken over the park the year prior, was the limestone cliffs. The kids thoroughly From Southend it’s just twenty kilo- challenge to find suitable accommodation. About 30 kilometres from Millicent the Highway. All the towns are RV friendly, the most hospitable and friendly host and enjoyed this walk along the cliff tops with metres to the historic old whaling town of Bushfires were burning throughout Vic- town of Glencoe is home to the Leake have some great beachside caravan parks by the end of the week we felt as though plenty of lookouts to take in the amazing Beachport. Beachport offers a great blend toria and in South Australia when we woke Brothers National Trust Woolshed, one of and offer travellers a scenic coastal tour of we had known her forever. The park has a views. The Seaview Hike is a much longer of coastal scenery, historic sites, swim- the next morning but fortunately not in the the largest woolsheds in Australia. Given many points of interest and a fascinating huge camp kitchen and communal hall, is walk, just over twelve kilometres of track ming, boating and walking trails. One of areas we were passing. Our next stop was Natasha’s keen interest (and possible fu- history. pet friendly and, best of all, only a two min- that showcases spectacular coastal fea- the must-dos is a drive along the Bowman Mount Gambier for lunch, home of the fa- ture career path) in agriculture it made an Southend was our chosen base from ute walk from beautiful Tivoli Bay, a safe tures and rock formations and definitely Scenic Drive with lots of stops at the nu- mous Blue Lake, before passing Millicent interesting side-trip. The woolshed was which to explore the area. This laid-back place for swimming and enjoying magical worth the effort. merous lookouts to photograph the spec- and finally Southend which was to be our never converted to electricity and so is still seaside village has a small population of sunsets. You can drive onto the beach here The Willichum Lookout Walking Trail tacular rock formations. base for the next seven days. in its original condition. To visit the wool- about 950 people and is sleepy and re- and keep driving, right up to Beachport is a moderate 1.6km hike which also of- One of the highlights of our trip was a Millicent is the centre of a bustling ru- shed, obtain the key from the local gen- laxed even in the height of summer. Com- and beyond. But that’s for another day, as fers spectacular panoramic views. Venture visit to the Pool of Siloam which is reput- ral area. In the surrounding countryside eral store and for a small deposit you can pared to nearby Beachport the vibe is in- there is lots to enjoy around Southend. anywhere near the coast of Southend and edly seven times saltier than the sea. I had large pine plantations provide pulp to the show yourself through. In 2015, for the first finitely slower with the General Store and The first place to go is to the end of the Canunda National Park and you will be hoped that its therapeutic properties would Kimberley-Clark mill which manufactures time, visitors will have the rare chance to Fish and Chip shop next door the main Cape Buffon Road and explore the cliff awe inspired by the coloured rocks and fix my chronic aching neck but alas, it was much of Australia’s household tissue pa- see blade shearing, as it happened, where hub in town. As you’d expect from a work- top of Cape Buffon. Here you’ll get your cliffs, by the dazzling turquoise hue of the not to be. Still, floating on these buoyant per. Visit the tourist information centre in it happened, with 40 international blade ing lobster port, the seafood here is pretty first taste of the incredible coastline and water and the never ending horizon of sea waters and swimming out to the pontoon town and the acclaimed Living History shearers from across Australia shearing damn good. Take a walk along the pier the spectacular jagged cliff formations of and sky. in the middle of the lake was very relaxing. Museum next door. It is one of Australia’s some 750 sheep in the Woolshed, just as and watch the fishermen catch their fish of Cape Buffon. Rugged sandstone cliffs, sea From the caravan park we were able to Floating on this tranquil lake is as easy as a finest rural museums however, given the they did in the 1880s. the day or throw in a line yourself if you’re stacks and off shore reefs are show pieces walk along the beach and up through the duck taking to the water. Just don’t take it sweltering heat we were experiencing, our From Millicent it’s just fifteen minutes to a keen angler. This quiet lobster fishing of nature that will take your breath away. town until we reached the Geltwood An- too far and duck dive as ingesting a mouth kids were more interested in swimming at Southend which made it a convenient side port hosts one of the largest fleet of Rock Another drive up Boozy Gully Road chor Memorial on Cape Buffon Drive. On full of salt water is not recommended. the local lake. trip if we ran out of necessary provisions, Lobster fishing vessels on the Limestone leads to a walking trail and lookout with 5th July 1876, the Geltwood, a three mast- There are many walks in the area and Just outside town another lake strictly like beer for Doug! Coast so there is always activity here. picnic tables. Southend offers three main ed hull barque, on its maiden voyage from some great fishing at the famed Salmon for the birds, Lake McIntyre offers travel- Southend – on the Southern Ports There are two caravan parks in town, walking tracks which can be accessed England was tragically wrecked a mile off Hole. Before you leave Beachport take lers a respite with a board walk, picnic fa- Highway both within minutes of the water, but our from a number of points, including the top shore, 16 kilometres from Rivoli Bay. There a walk along the jetty. At about 773 me- cilities and a bird hide walk where native Southend is on the Southern Ports choice was Southend Sands Caravan of Cape Buffon and at the end of Boozy were no survivors. At the lookout you can tres long it’s the second largest jetty in u 116 ON THE ROAD March 2015 ON THE ROAD March 2015 117 The 773 metre jetty at Beachport.