A Memorable Mayfair Meal Text: Fransje van Riel Lunch at Murano should be on anyone’s divine smoked aubergine puree, topped cumin, chickpeas, and raisins; beetroot, gastronomical bucket list. Angela Hartnett, with a swerve of olive oil and a sprinkling radicchio and sweet potato with spiced who received an MBE in 2007 for her of pine nuts. yogurt; or polenta, kale, Taleggio cheese, services to the hospitality industry, opened Matteo Ramazzina, Murano’s head and trompette mushrooms. the doors of the restaurant in 2008, and sommelier, makes knowledgeable within just four short months it was awarded recommendations with regards to white a Michelin Star and four AA rosettes. wine and, choosing a bottle of Fattorie Sono homemade ricotta, which can be served The cuisine is modern European, heavily Montenidoli 2011 from Tuscany, we savour with the wild mushroom and garlic cream the tasting before studying the menu. sauce instead of the sage butter as grew up appreciating and cooking under As befits a restaurant of this calibre, mentioned on the menu. a great deal of attention is given to Although portions are not huge, our grandmother. For years Hartnett was the details of both food quality and service. protégé of Gordon Ramsay, working with him Whatever needs doing – be it clearing the richness and texture of the food. at such dazzling restaurants as Aubergine, tables or responding to a subtle wave of Still, there is the business of dessert. a patron’s hand – gets done by whomever is first at hand, regardless of whether it had my eye on the cheese trolley from at the Connaught Hotel. She is one of only a the moment it was wheeled towards two handful of female British chefs to have been quite impressive to observe the level of businessmen at a nearby table. Having awarded such accolades. teamwork between the staff at opposite spent most of my teenage years in the Nestled at 22 Queen Street, in the heart ends of the restaurant’s hierarchy. of London’s charming Mayfair district, Flexibility, we discover, is also part of trolley to be an institution, the traditional Murano is perfectly poised to cater to the Murano’s immaculate service. My request stalwart of a fine restaurant. But never to handpick certain dishes from both the Huddled beneath an umbrella, shielding set lunch menu and the more extensive à the same way. ourselves from the pouring rain, we almost la carte offerings is immediately obliged. A generous selection of no fewer miss the unassuming entrance that leads to My leek and potato tart starter is the restaurant’s spacious dining room, with beautifully presented, accompanied by a heavenly than the last. Foregoing its modern, subtle décor. small scattering of poached quail eggs. coffees or digestifs, we are nevertheless A basket of freshly baked gourmet Signature dishes such as risotto with presented with an artfully designed bread and extra-virgin olive oil is wild garlic and broad beans; burrata, chocolate spread before we leave. presented, along with shavings of cured Sicilian tomatoes with Puglian olives and To me, it is the perfect ending to a truly meat, which we waive owing to our gastronomic meal. and Parmesan are some of the offerings For more information visit is unfazed, and elegantly swoops it away on the à la carte menu. There are plenty www.muranolondon.com. in order to quickly return with the most 34 PREMIER.