DENALI PREP COURSE Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS) promotes excellence in responsible mountaineering and wilderness travel by educating and guiding others. Our core curriculum focuses on safety, leadership, teamwork, climbing skills, “Leave No Trace” ethics, and fun. Every AMS program incorporates the core curriculum. Our class progression and hands-on approach gives participants the confidence and knowledge to repeat on their own what they learn with AMS. Our ultimate goal is to build a strong foundation for a lifetime of enjoyment in the backcountry. THIS COURSE SPECIFICATIONS This Denali Prep Course has the unique distinction of Experience level: Beginner and Intermediate having a specific and committed peak objective and 5,325 feet elevation gain, 20 miles, 12 days course location, the southeast fork (base camp) and Deposit: $500 upper Kahiltna Glacier. The peaks surrounding these Course balance due: 60 days prior to the starting date Kahiltna Glacier locations are training climbs in Group limit: 9 students, 3 instructors preparation for Denali’s West Buttress route. Tuition includes: Professional instructors, roundtrip This course’s goal is specifically focused on preparing glacier flight; all food during your course and team participants for a Denali climb. It differs from our lunch at AMS headquarters on day 1; all group regular mountaineering courses, which includes a camping and climbing equipment: ropes, tents, more thorough avalanche curriculum. In many ways pickets, technical climbing gear, snow saws, wands; this course mirrors the first days of our Denali climb: it sled for each student, pre-rigged for roped glacier is outfitted the same, flies to the same glacier landing travel for use during the climb; snow kitchen strip, and shares the lower portion of the West equipment: kitchen tents, cooking stoves, utensils, and Buttress route from 7,200 feet to 10,000 feet. At AMS, fuel; mountain communications: emergency use we can take a beginner or experienced climber, outfit satellite phone, FRS on-mountain radios, Delorme them from head to toe, teach them the obvious and inReach; maps, GPS; medical protocols, first aid, the subtle, and help them to become Alaskan medication and repair kits; fully equipped staging area mountaineers. at AMS HQ and AMS Mountain Gear Shop in The prerequisite is that participants arrive in excellent Talkeetna; 24/7 support from staff at AMS in mental and physical condition and have a strong Talkeetna during your climb; regular social media desire to learn and practice as much as possible updates during your climb; luggage storage and free during the course. parking during your course; camping at AMS HQ campground (tents are not provided); 10% discount at The Denali Prep Course is for beginner and the AMS Mountain Shop in Talkeetna; welcome-back intermediate mountaineers. Our glacier travel and table with fresh foods and drinks after your course; crevasse rescue techniques are refined and new to knowledgeable staff to assist with lodging and shuttle many people, and we know how to glacier snow camp logistics. in style. Nearly everyone who comes off any AMS course, including the Denali Prep, looks, acts like, and You are responsible for: Transportation to and from is a responsible, organized, and competent climber. Talkeetna, lodging, Denali National Park entrance fee ($10) to be paid in Talkeetna during the first day of the course (or show your Annual Pass), travelers cancellation insurance (highly recommended), ALASKA MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL, LLC P.O. BOX 566, 3RD ST., TALKEETNA, AK 99676 | P 907.733.1016 | F 907.733.1362 | [email protected] | WWW.CLIMBALASKA.ORG 1 personal equipment and clothing, and AMS equipment Radio Tower, to name a few. We will ferry loads rentals. throughout the trip in true expedition style, all the while becoming better mountaineers. Conditions will FEATURES determine our objectives. Expect to be on snow for the duration of the course and be prepared to encounter ▪ 1:3 instructor/student ratio, up to 9 students all types of weather and conditions. Alaska is full of ▪ Mountaineering expedition-style skills surprises! progression specific for the West Buttress climber WILDERNESS ETHICS ▪ Crevasse rescue, roped glacier travel, and moving camp Preserving the wilderness character of the terrain we ▪ Glacier snow camping and winter survival live and work in is a long standing priority at AMS. We skills have climbed on all continents and Alaska’s ▪ Multiple snow peak ascent opportunities mountains remain among the world’s cleanest; and we ▪ Expedition skills: leadership, climbing styles, want to do all we can to keep it that way. Our courses expedition behavior and managing group practice Leave No Trace camping and climbing dynamics, moving camp, trip planning techniques and follow current and progressive human ▪ Snowshoeing waste and trash removal management techniques. To ▪ Glaciology, natural and human history classes enhance the wilderness experience and take ▪ High altitude illnesses and cold injury classes advantage of better climbing conditions, we often travel in the cooler temperatures of the night and early EXPEDITION STYLE & REMOTENESS mornings; this allows us to climb and travel on firmer snow conditions and to enjoy undisturbed mountain AMS mountaineering courses are self-reliant soundscapes. To be considerate of others, we avoid expeditions that travel within remote mountain ranges broadcasting music and are strategic in our choice of of Alaska. Throughout the course, students learn to campsite locations. Our instructors work closely with live safely in a glaciated environment, prepare their NPS mountaineering rangers to identify current own meals, care for themselves, and climb mountains. mountain hazards and to document and report The course format emphasizes hands-on learning and unethical camping and climbing teams. We believe the application of new skills in a variety of terrains. It that our national park lands are treasures of North also teaches self-reliance: If the weather is unflyable, America, and we practice clean visitation practices evacuation to modern medical facilities can be difficult and wilderness preservation education through the and may take up to several days. AMS courses model duration of all of our climbs and programs. climbing and camping techniques that prepare students to pursue mountaineering in the most severe COURSE PROGRESSION environments. The goal of this course is to develop the skills and ENVIRONMENT & COURSE LOCATION judgment necessary to pursue mountaineering in a remote, glaciated environment, with specific attention Mountaineering courses fly into Denali National Park paid to the logistics and movement required for a and Preserve, home to America’s biggest and wildest Denali expedition. We truly love it when we have mountains. The Kahiltna Glacier is a 45-mile-long returning climbers who choose to climb with AMS for glacier that begins on the southwest slope of Denali. It years and trust us with generations of the family. We was named by Lt. J. S. Herron in 1902, Kahiltna being want to prepare students so that they can return to the the Tanaina native people’s name for the river coming Alaska Range or other remote environment without off the glacier. Climbers attempting Denali follow this instructors and repeat what they accomplished during glacier from 7,200 feet to its pass at 10,000 feet. We the course. To help fulfill this goal, instructors follow will be travelling on the same route as Denali climbers. an extensive class list and carefully thought out course There are several options for peak ascents including progression. From day one, you will be fine-tuning Mount Capps, Kahiltna Dome, Mount Frances, and glacier camping techniques for winter conditions. The ALASKA MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL, LLC P.O. BOX 566, 3RD ST., TALKEETNA, AK 99676 | P 907.733.1016 | F 907.733.1362 | [email protected] | WWW.CLIMBALASKA.ORG 2 first two days focus in on teaching the skills necessary kitchen set up, stove use and care, and, of course, for everyone to route-find safely on a glacier, and to dinner! self-rescue and to rescue others in the event of a crevasse fall. With several Kahiltna Glacier peak WEATHER ascents being the final objectives, the course progresses to more advanced terrain and steeper The course takes place in the middle of the southern snow, incorporating avalanche awareness, crampon Alaskan mainland, 200 miles south of the Arctic Circle techniques, and running belays. Depending on at 63° North Latitude. This is 35° farther north than Mt. conditions, ice or rock climbing is also taught. Everest; it is the same latitude as northern Hudson Transference of skills leads to transference of Bay and central Scandinavia. The weather in the responsibility; and by the end of the course, students Alaska Range will dictate our every move; it is fickle are leading rope teams and making route-finding and unpredictable. It will force us to learn to be flexible decisions under the watchful eyes of instructors. You and patient—and sometimes spontaneous. The will also receive personalized written evaluations at weather is something we cannot change, we can only the end of the course to provide guidance for future accommodate it; and living with all of the weather climbs and to compliment your resume. variation is part of the learning experience. THE FIRST DAY UNFLYABLE WEATHER On the starting day of the course, students and Be aware that Alaska’s weather is often unpredictable instructors meet at 8:00 a.m. at AMS. We will have and can possibly prevent flying into or out of the muffins and fresh brewed coffee, tea, and juice waiting mountains on schedule. Bush planes only fly when the for you; but you may want to enjoy the popular weather is safe and suitable. In the event that courses breakfast at the Talkeetna Roadhouse before meeting are unable to fly to the glacier at the scheduled time, time. It is a busy day, and we ask you to please be on we base activities out of the AMS Talkeetna facilities, time and take care of all personal business which consist of the office and staging area, beforehand.