WINDOW ON THE WORLD At the point where three sea lochs meet near the Isle of Skye, Eilean Donan castle has a long and colorful past. Sea Lochs, Castles, Whiskey and Food By Hauke Steinberg or one of the most breath- Donan had become a stronghold of the lacework pattern with the sea along this taking experiences in the Mackenzies of Kintail. (Nowadays it is the coast. Tiny villages are tucked into folds, Scottish Highlands, take home turf of the MacRae clan.) In April on promontories, and along gurgling the A87 highway from Fort 1719 the castle was occupied by Spanish streams. Seafaring is at the heart of William to the Isle of Skye troops as part of a Jacobite uprising. The these coastal communities and there’s Fand descend into Glen Shiel to Loch castle was captured and bombarded by three a fabulous range of boat trips and tours Duich. Royal Navy frigates to ensure it would never available. A few miles farther along the pose a threat again. For the following two The food and drink of Skye lakeshore, you’ll suddenly come across centuries, it lay in ruins until it was restored and Lochalsh have developed an the iconic sight of Eilean Donan Castle between 1919 and 1932 by Lt. Col. John international reputation and you’ll sitting on an island at the point where MacRae-Gilstrap. find famous restaurants here, such three of the great Scottish sea lochs The surrounding area of Lochalsh, as the Three Chimneys, housed in a meet. famous for its natural beauty, is a popular 100-year-old cottage overlooking the Although the little island has been hillwalking destination. Close by is the sea on the shores of Loch Dunvegan inhabited since the 6th century, when village called Kyle of Lochalsh, the gateway in northwestern Skye. If you’re thirsty, an Irish saint lived here, the first to the Isle of Skye, where the stark rise of there’s the Isle of Skye Brewery, which fortified castle wasn’t built until 1220 the jagged Cuillin ridge drops to the gentle you can also tour. If you prefer a more ERG against the Vikings. white of a soft, sand beach. traditional taste of Scotland, you can B TEIN S By the late 13th century, Eilean Inlets, bays, and islands create a complex check out the Talisker Distillery. n E UK A © H 32 INTERNATIONAL LIVING JANUARY 2012.