Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Zagreb Winter 2019-2020 COOL-TURE The best of culture and events this winter N°98 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com Contents ESSENTIAL CIT Y GUIDES Foreword 4 Zagorje Day Trip 51 A zesty editorial to unfold Beautiful countryside Cool-ture 6 Shopping 52 The best of culture and events this winter Priceless places and buys Restaurants 32 Arrival & Getting Around 60 We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here Coffee & Cakes 43 Maps “How’s that sweet tooth?” Street Register 63 City Centre Map 64-65 Nightlife 46 City Map 66 Are you ready to party? Sightseeing 49 Discover what we‘ve uncovered Bowlers, Photo by Ivo Kirin, Prigorje Museum Archives facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2019-2020 3 Foreword Winter is well and truly here and even though the days are shorter and the nights both longer and colder, there is plenty of room for optimism and cheer and we will give you a whole load of events and reasons to beg that receptionist back at the hotel/hostel to prolong your stay for another day or week! But the real season by far is Advent, the lead up to Christmas where Zagrebians come out in force and Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb devour mulled wine, grilled gourmet sausages, hot round ISSN 1333-2732 doughnuts, and many other culinary delights. And since Advent is in full swing, we have a resounding wrap up of Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić what to do and see. Of course, the rest of the winter in Zagreb In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia the city is a buzz and you can expect a lot of interesting Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com exhibitions, concerts and festivals. City museums are a Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o. fave, even with kids. The winter months never have to be Printed by Kerschoffset d.o.o., Zagreb boring because the city is full of events. Already in January, Editorial following the holidays, you can look forward to the Night Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan of Museums. In March, the ZagrebDox - International Bousfield, Lee Murphy Documentary Film Festival and the Zagreb Festival of Lights Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac await you. So, let the bells jingle, let the food tingle, and we Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Design Moontage, Ivana Mihoković would love for you get out and mingle whilst in ZG! Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Petra Grozaj’s work ‘Getting Ready’ Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić COVER STORY [email protected] Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copy- The cover contains a photograph of Petra Grozaj’s work right cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication that is currently being exhibited at the Galženica Gallery may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the pur- in Velika Gorica and can be viewed until 21 December. pose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under The work is called ‘Getting Ready’, or (Spremanje) in license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania Croatian. More about the artist can be found at www. tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zagreb (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not re- sponsible for any information which might change after publication. petragrozaj.com. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt. 4 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Zagreb Advantages of Zagreb Card: Card24 — Unlimited access to public transportation 98 kn —Free admission to city attractions It also includes discounts at more than 55 locations such Zagreb as museums, galleries, restaurants, shops, and others. Card72 From now on, Zagreb Card can be purchased online, 135 kn at the Tourist Information Center on Zagreb`s main square and at Franjo Tuđman Airport. Free admission to the Museum of the City of Zagreb, the Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb 360° – Zagreb Eye observation deck, and the Zagreb ZOO. For more information, visit our website at www.zagrebcard.com Alem Korkut @ Lauba – The House for People and Art Archives Cool-ture THE BEST OF CULTURE AND EVENTS THIS WINTER Cool-ture Bribir. The visible ruins on Bribirska Glavica have attracted CROATIAN HERITAGE AT ITS much archaeological interest for over 100 years and the FINEST exhibition is based on excavated archaeological material 30.11.2019 - 02.02.2020 » VISOVAC – SPIRITU- and findings; fit for any passionate historian. QB‑1, Croa‑ RALITY AND CULTURE ON LAPIS ALBA tian History Museum, Matoševa 9, www.hismus.hr. Why It’s Must See: For the very first time, the treasures of Nearby: As you are in the heart of the Old Upper Town, the Treasury of the Franciscan Monastery ‘Our Mother of visit the Croatian National Parliament and St. Mark’s Mercy’ on the Visovac Island will be presented to the gen- Church. At first dusk when the stars and moon become eral public. For over 600 years of stormy history, Franciscan clearer, light bearers appear and you can follow them light monks have offered help to the local population in times up 217 age old gas lamps which illuminate the streets. Re- of enemy attacks, famine, and poverty. Simultaneously, ward yourself with a beverage in the ‘Under the Old Roofs they have gathered an immense amount of artefacts Inn’, the oldest such inn which opened in 1830. which have now been restaurated and over 500 of these 17.01 - 10.04 » CROATS – THE NATION BEHIND archived treasures including historical church linens and THE MYTH dishes, incunabulas, paintings, sabres, jewellery, weapons, Why It’s Must See: An exhibition dedicated to the elite decrees and more. QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg 16th century Croatian guards and light cavalry who fought Republike Hrvatske 10, www.muo.hr. in the Thirty Years’ war along with the irregular guerrilla Nearby: Seeking a great pit stop after attending the Visovac soldiers named ‘Uskoks’. They fought the Ottomans and exhibit, then head to Cafe Gymnasium with its super elegant Venetians and gained a reputation of being skilled and interior that oozes cosiness. Coffee and cakes are in abundance fearless warriors. In addition, the exhibition also tells the here and once done, another tip is to head over to the Zagreb story of the unique Croatian horsemen’s necktie, the kra- Music Academy as it often hosts a solid concert program. vat which quickly spread throughout the world and is now known as the modern day tie. Exclusive exhibits, maps, 21.11.2019 - 24.05.2020 » VARVARIA / BERBE- weapons and multimedia content! QB‑3, Ethnographic RIUM / BRIBIR: HISTORICAL LAYERS REVEALED Museum, Trg Mažuranića 14, www.emz.hr. Why It’s Must See: The Croatian History Musuem pres- Nearby: After viewing the exhibition, both the Croatian Na- ents Bribirska Glavica, one of the most important archaeo- tional Theater and the Croatian National Archives buildings logical sites in Croatia. It was the site of Liburnian and Ro- are a must with their arhchitectural and historical features. The man Varvaria as well as medieval Breberium, a seat of the Botaničar Bar is tip-top for chilling out amidst its green and art most powerful Croatian medieval kindred, the Šubići of noveau surroudings. Even young artists get to exhibit here! facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2019-2020 7 Cool-ture AMAZING SPACES CROATIAN INSTITUTE OF HISTORY Even though the heart of the institute is with its scholars who carry on with their research into Croatian history at a national and European level, the Croatian Institute of History is an at- traction due to the sheer beauty of the build- ing. Highlights include the Golden Hall, the Pompejanska Hall and the Renaissance studio which are rich in artistic and architectural splen- dor. QC‑1, Opatička 10, www.isp.hr. THE CROATIAN STATE ARCHIVES (HRVATSKI DRŽAVNI ARHIV) On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, archi- tecturally planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nouveau building - one of the fin- HDLU Archives est piece of architecture in Zagreb. This build- ing now houses the Croatian State Archive, the home of documentation of state importance. The Reading Room, which has undergone a full restoration completed at the end of 2004, is particularly fine. Guided tours are available in English, German or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00 and 14:00. 20kn per person.QB‑4, Marulićev trg 21, tel. (+385‑1) 480 19 99/(+385‑1) 482 92 44, 480 19 21, fax (+385‑1) 482 90 00, www. arhiv.hr. Open 08:15‑15:45; Thu 08:15‑17:45; Fri 08:14‑14:45; closed Sat, Sun. THE CROATIAN SOCIETY OF ARTISTS Photo by Viktor Juric on Unsplash - Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this Mirogoj Cemetery, Zagreb, Croatia building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popu- lar name džamija testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of vi- sual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood.QTrg žrtava fašizma 16, tel. (+385‑1) 461 18 19/(+385‑1) 461 18 18, fax (+385‑1) 457 68 31, www.hdlu.hr.