©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip Welcome to Israel & the Welcome to Palestinian Territories ... 2 Israel & the Palestinian Highlights Map ............... 4 Territories 20 Top Experiences ....... 6 Need to Know ................. 16 COUNTRY • The original If You Like ........................ 18 • Comprehensive • Adventurous Month by Month ............. 20 Holy Sites tian pilgrims and tourists are welcome to 66 visit sites associated with Jesus’ birth (in The Holy Land, cradle of Judaism and Bethlehem), ministry (in Nazareth and Christianity Dome ofand thesacred Rock to Muslims and around the Sea of Galilee) and cruciÀ xion Baha’is, oՖ ers visitors the opportunity to The À rst sight of the Dome of the Rock (in Jerusalem). For Sunni Muslims, only immerse themselves in the richness and (p 47 ) – its gold cap shimmering above a Mecca and Medina are holier than Jerusa- variety 1 of their own religious traditions – mystical turquoise-hued octagonal base – lem’s Al-Haram ash-Sharif, known to Jews Itineraries ........................ 24 and to discover the beliefs, rituals and never fails to take one’s breath away. Perhaps as the Temple Mount – perhaps the most architecture of other faiths. Ancient Jew- that’s what the architects had in mind more contested real estate on earth. ish sites, found throughout the country, than 1300 years ago when they set to work on include Jerusalem’s Western Wall, which this impossibly gorgeous building. The best Archaeology once surrounded the Second Temple, and view is from the Mount of Olives but don’t miss Byzantine-era synagogues adorned with Human beings have lived in Israel and the chance to see it up close by taking an early sumptuous mosaics. The Roman-era syna- the Palestinian Territories since long be- Crossing Borders ........... 27 morning walk up to the Temple Mount. Dome offore recorded history, and thanks to the gogues around the Sea of Galilee may have the Rock, with Mount of Olives in the background been used by Jews and Christians before painstaking work of archaeologists, you they started thinking of themselves as be- can explore and ponder what they left 20 longing to separate religions. Both Chris- behind. If the 10,000-year-old mud-brick Travel with Children ....... 31 The Dead Sea TOP You pass a sign reading ‘Sea Level’ and then 2 keep driving downhill, eventually catching EXPERIENCES 01-welcome-to-isr7.inddglimpses of the 2 Dead Sea’s (p 284 ) cobalt-blue 11/04/2012 10:39:21 AM waters, outlined by snow-white salt deposits, reddish-tan cliՖ s and tufts of dark-green vegeta- tion. At the oasis of Ein Gedi you can hike through Regions at a Glance ....... 33 unique desert habitats to crystal-clear pools and tumbling waterfalls before climbing to the Judean Desert plateau above – or heading down to the seashore for a briny, invigorating dip. To the south around Mt Sodom, outdoor options 20 include adventure cycling along dry riverbeds. Top Events 1 HANAN ISACHAR/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © IMAGES PLANET ISACHAR/LONELY HANAN Month Passover, April by Easter, April Ramadan, July Month Hanukkah, December Christmas, December Jewish holidays follow the Christmas Purim lunisolar Hebrew calendar z(Orthodox) z Celebrates the and fall somewhere within Commemorates the birth ing of a plot to wipe o a four-week window relative of Jesus in Bethlehem the Jews of ancient Pe DISCOVER PHRASEBOOK to the Gregorian (Western) (celebrated by Eastern Or- Children and adults p calendar. The Islamic cal- thodox churches on 6 and 7 costumes for an eveni endar is lunar so each year January and by Armenians of revelry (23–24 Febr • Best-of festivals arrive 11 or 12 days in the Holy Land on 18 and 2013, 15–16 March 20 03-top-experiences-isr7.indd 6 11/04/2012 10:40:40 AM earlier than the Gregorian 19 January). March 2015; celebrate dates. Jewish and Islamic day later in walled cit Photo-packed holidays begin at sundown including Jerusalem). • Tu Bishvat and last until sundown of z (New Year of the the following calendar day; Trees) Jews plant trees, and Land Day Inspirational the dates given below in- eat nuts and fresh and dried z (Yom al-Ard i • clude the eve of the holiday. fruits (26 January 2013, 16 Arabic, Yom HaAdam Eastern Orthodox churches January 2014 4 February Hebrew) A Palestinian Looking for other travel resources? PAGE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP UNDERSTAND06-month-by-month-isr7.indd 20 11/04/2012 10:41:51 AM 367 ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN Learn about the big picture, so you TERRITORIES can make sense of what you see population per sq km Israel & the Palestinian Israel West Bank Gaza Territories Today .......... 368 ≈ 360 people History ............................. 371 Israel & the Palestinian People of Israel & the Territories Today Prospects for Peace Optimism about peace between Israel and her neighbours was wide- LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE spread among both Israelis and Palestinians in the heyday of the Oslo peace process, in the mid-1990s. But following years of suicide bombings, Palestinian Territories .. 387 rocket attacks from Gaza and calls by Palestinian Islamists for Israel’s de- For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, struction, many Israelis have become pessimistic about the chances for Hummus & peace. Retaliatory strikes from Israel, continuing Israel Defence Forces advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas (IDF) roadblocks, the right-wing composition of Israel’s current govern ment, settlement construction and settler violence have had a similar Hummus & Olives: Olives: Regional im act on the assessment of many Palestinians. chapters Israe i Prime Minister Binyamin Netanyahu has declared his su ort lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine tors for a two-state solution to the Israeli–Palestinian conÁ ict ut since his Food alf of right-wing coa ition government came to power in 2009, it has continue ii Regional Food ............... 393 In the beginning there was food, and lots of it. Yes, a quick Á ick through the Torah, New Testament or Quran will tell you that food has always played a signiÀ cant role in the Middle East. The Scriptures are stuՖ ed with banquets and feasts, and to this day meals mean far more than scheduled daily breaks from work or play. Food is identity, family and Hea Daily Life .......................... 400 tradition. Here, food is home. Hum A relatively small area of land, Israel and the Palestinian Territories » Ali Car STAY IN TOUCH ncompass a veritable universe of cuisine. Within Israel, you can gen Jaffa (p 1 rally divide home cooking into two camps: Ashkenazi (Jews of East » Humm rn Euro ean heritage) and Sephardi/Mizrahi (Jews of Iberian, Balkan, Akko (p 1 North African or Middle Eastern origin). But like its peo le and music, lonelyplanet.com/contact Government & Politics ... 403 » Abu S Israeli food is increasin ly becoming a fusion of cultures. The myriad of Abu Gho Judaism, Christianity AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet & Islam ........................... 406 ISBN 978-1-74179-936-1 facebook.com/ Arts .................................. 410 99425 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes Environment ................... 416 environmentally responsible, socially 23-israel-pt-today-isr7.indd 368 11/04/2012 10:45:08 AM lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781741 799361 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter 26-food-isr7.indd 393 11/04/2012 10:47:15 AM israel-palestinian-territories-7-cover.indd 2 19/04/2012 2:51:06 PM PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 36 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips Upper Galilee & Golan p224 Haifa & the North Coast Lower Galilee & p156 Sea of Galilee p189 West Bank Tel Aviv p254 p108 Jerusalem p38 The Gaza The Dead Sea Strip p284 p333 The Negev p303 Petra (Jordan) p339 Sinai (Egypt) p353 PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 421 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP %1-700-705 022; www.iaa.gov. il), 60km north of Eilat. Airlines Israel’s privatised Á ag carrier, El Al (LY; %03-977 1111; www. Safe Travel ...................... 422 elal.co.il) has direct Á ights to several dozen cities in Eu- rope and the Former Soviet Union, as well as long-haul non-stop services to New York, Newark, Toronto, Los Directory A–Z ................. 425 Angeles, Mumbai, Bang- kok, Seoul, Hong Kong and Beijing; some Á ights to Asian destinations are codeshares. Known for having the tightest Transport security in the business, the company was privatised in Transport ........................ 436 2005, leading to a signiÀ cant GETTING THERE improvement in service. El Al & AWAY Air is not a member of any of the three global airline alliances Israel has land borders and Airports (Star Alliance, OneWorld and peace treaties with Egypt Israel’s main gateway is Ben- and Jordan, so it’s easy to Skyteam). Sundor (www. Gurion International Air- sundor.co.il) is El Al’s charter combine a visit to Israel and port (IATA code: TLV; %arrivals Health .............................. 441 the Palestinian Territories subsidiary. & departures 03-972 3333; with a trip to Petra and/or to Some of the cheapest www.iaa.gov.il), situated 50km Á ights from North America the Red Sea coast of Sinai.