vm»."m .^e^ 'Dcutee THE MtaiZINE OF INTCRNATION/IL FOLK OUNCIlia APRIL 1976 VOL.33 No.4 TABLE OF CONTENTS OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE BLOSSOM FESTIVAL................. 1 FOLK DANCE FEDERATION OF CALIFORNIA, INC. Costumes of the 1776 Era......... 2 EDITOR.........................Linda Horn STATEWIDE '76.................... 4 ASSOCIATE EDITOR.................Max Horn DANCE RESEARCH EDITOR...Dorothy Tamburini Slavic-American Society.......... 5 COSTUME RESEARCH EDITOR.....Eleanor Bacon BUSINESS MANAGER.................Max Horn Apple Blossom Festival........... 6 APRIL CONTRIBUTORS Idyllwild Folk Dance Workshop___ 7 Ruth Ruling Perle Bleadon Publications Corner.............. 8 Virginia Wilder Dee Rossi Eleanor Bacon Berle Woolf Carol Walker Hona Verzi What Has Happened to Squares?.... 9 Margaret Harrison Genevieve Pereira President's Ball.................10 Cathy Jair Bee Whittier FOTEM............................11 Announcements....................14 FEDERATION OFFICERS (North) From the Editor..................15 PRESIDENT.................Ernest Drescher BIG Things are Happening 920 Junipero Serra Blvd., S.F. 94127 VICE PRESIDENT..............Raymond Olson EAST of the Border........16 TREASURER.....................Earl Wi 1 son RECORDING SECRETARY.....Genevieve Pereira Scholarship Article..............17 DIR. OF PUBLICATIONS.............Max Horn DIR. OF EXTENSION............George Marks Dance Descriptions: DIR. OF PUBLICITY...............June Horn HISTORIAN....................Bee Mitchell llbyii,>vU. (Slovenia).........18 Od Buczka Vo 8uczfea(Poland).20 (South) Easy Does It!....................24 PRESIDENT.....................Sheila Ruby 5667 Spreading Oak Dr, Hollywood, 90068 Kolo Kalendar....................25 VICE PRESIDENT............Morris Lechtick TREASURER...................Ray Augustine Fol k Dance Camps.................26 RECORDING SECRETARY........Cynthia Tarvin CORRESPONDING SECRETARY.......Elsa Miller Party PI aces.....................27 DIR. OF EXTENSION...........Virginia Saar DIR. OF PUBLICITY...........Perle Bleadon Echoes From the Southland........30 HISTORIAN.....................Bertha Gold Council CI ips....................33 OFFICES Calendar of Events...............37 EDITORIAL (Letters, Articles, and Advertising)............Linda Horn Classified Ads...................40 3052 Shane Dr, Richmond, CA 94806 Telephone: (415) 223-6702 Advertisers: 3, 11, 14, 15, 16, 26, CIRCULATION..................Vi Dexheimer 29, 32, 36, Back Cover. 4039 Mt. Veeder Road, Napa, CA 94558 Telephone: (707) 226-2645 FOLK DANCE FEDERATION OF CALIFORNIA, INC. 1095 Market Street, Rm. 213 ON OUR COVER: San Francisco, CA 94103 Telephone: 431-8717 or 441-3049 The CHORAL DANCE GROUP, under the Office Hours - Wednesdays - 9 AM - 5 PM direction of Bee Drescher, Performs SUBSCRIPTION RATES: 3.00 per year (Foreign & Canada) ^<..™.SV. $6.00 per year "Lucera De La Manana" at Fresno, Oct 18, 1975. Photo by Jim Kearns. Second Class Postage paid at San Francisco, California. All rights reserved. Any material con¬ tained herein may be reproduced with the written consent, and with due credit to, the Folk Dance Federation of California, Inc., as long as sold material Is not reprinted for monetary gain. LET'S DANCE is published monthly by the Folk Dance Federation of California, Inc., with the ex¬ ception of May-June and July-August Issues, which are released within each 2-month period. San Francisco's 200th Birthday o BLOSSOM FESTIVAL Sunday, April 25, 1976 Kezar Pavilion Stanyan & Waller Streets, San Francisco AFTERNP'OiTPROGRAM — 1:30 - 5:30T^ Siamia Kiojutu Conxldo SaazAZandeA. Qaad/vittt Slutakl [L] To TuA (P) Vol^om PJvi&on Blu^i S>ommhznt My Lov^ Jim Oxford Ho{ibH.aiikaivi, Lae.ndtzA Ray 01 son UoAJvi'i, Wzddlng San Gllg^n flguA^ntanz {?) C-iultandKa (L ] RancheAa {UfLuguay] Ti-iganochka Happy HzoaX. Earl Wilson 3.B. mine, Irene Oxford OfUjtyvt [L] Tango VoqiuXo (P) Te,huantzpe,c MoiaA^co Uzxlcano Walt Baldwin Foznan Obzxzk. Joe Davis ELizabeXh QuadnAlle. Commz Tu Ei BelZe. (P) La Gotondfiina Jota CnloULa. Waltz (F/iee Stylt] la Encantada Tango A TfiAjp To BavoJiia Tino UoKi (L) Hambo EVENING PROGRAM 6:30 - 9:30 PM EXHIBITIONS — 3:00 PM KOLO HOUR - 6:30 to 7:30 PM Ba£ In da. Stnxaat [?] with EDITH CUTHBERT BfiandiiwatzdA El Gaucko Tango ALL REQUEST EVENING PROGRAM GKand Squaxe, 7:30 to 9:30 PM Sdtnia (L) Mex/tco-w SchottLi, Stan Valentine Bill D'Alvy Hosted by THE SAN FRANCISCO COUNCIL OF FOLK DANCE GROUPS Sponsored by THE SAN FRANCISCO RECREATION & PARK DEPARTMENT and THE FOLK DANCE FEDERATION OF CALIFORNIA, INC. Costumes of the 1776 Era The fashions around the 1776 era were greatly influenced by the French and English court styles. Fancy dressed dolls used as miniature models were sent from Europe to the colonies and from these dolls came the high fashion gowns so desired by : the ladies of society. When the colonies began their fight for freedom, they felt , it improper to support British trade, so the rich elaborate fab¬ rics, so much in fashion earlier, became less in vogue as the distaste for the British grew. Although the purchasing of Bri¬ tish imported fabrics diminished, the designs and styles of the fashions remained. This was true of the men's fashions as well as the women's. The women substituted fancy cottons for the silks, brocades and taffetas and the men gave up brocades and velvets for fine wools and linens. Most of the men's clothing resembled the military uniforms, which, in themselves, were very elegant. The long tailed jack¬ ets were blue (red coats were British!) and were worn over tan wool vests and pants. The military jackets were made double breasted and lined to match the vest, and when the jackets were worn open the tan lining became a jacket decoration. The states¬ man's jacket was not meant to button, so their elaborate brocade jackets were edged with fancy braid, and buttons were just an : ornament. The colors of the jackets varied as much as the fab¬ rics, which ranged from silks, velvets, and brocades to cord¬ uroys and wools. The pants would match the jacket or the vest. Buttons that were once used to protect the person from pickpock¬ ets became ornamental decorations, and were of carved wood, glass, metal or fabric covered, and often the fabric was embroi¬ dered. Military men wore boots or off-white linen spats to protect their shins and statesmen wore white or black tights or long white stockings. Their shoes were square-toed and had a large silver buckle. A walking stick was also an important part of a statesman's complete ensemble. "A bit of dandyism" they called it. Statesmen wore wigs from England and France until their re¬ bellious spirits did away with all English influence and they turned to leaving their hair natural or powdered it with corn¬ starch and tied it back with a ribbon. The fashionable and elegant women of Philadelphia had their French and English creations made of imported silk, brocade, damask, or chintz, in either soft delicate colors or lively but not too bright colors. The dress was made in one piece, or a separate underskirt or petticoat was worn if the dress was open in the front. The petticoat was often a masterpiece of needlework art. The over- skirt could hang straight down, or if it had a train it could be pulled up into a bustle for dancing. The gowns were lavishly decorated with velvet ribbons, lace, orpleated or gathered ruf¬ fles. The fabric for the ruffles was either matching fabric or contrasting fabric that had been glued to matching paper or other stiffening and then the edges pinked or raveled. To make the hips look fuller, panniers, or side hoops, were worn. Poc¬ kets were sewn onto the panniers to carry the necessary hand¬ kerchiefs and smelling salts. The pockets were reached through narrow slits in the side of the skirt. The mop cap was, for a long time, an article of head wear common to the middle class woman as a means of keeping the head warm at night and the dust out of her hair in the daytime. Wo¬ men at this time only washed their hair once or twice a month, so means to keep the hair clean were necessary. Martha Wash¬ ington is the one that made the mop cap popular in fashionable lacescircles, and onlyribbons. their caps were made of finer fabrics with added by Ete.anok. Bacon t* AUGUST 8-14,1976* $ l%^eat/iar €^iver c/^amity @amp | I A VACATION FOR THE ENTIRE FAMILY! * ^ ^ ^ * VcLtly ivUitfuxcJxon in fotk VancU-ng ^ * * Dancing iofi Fun tach evzning ¥r H * Sptclal m^kihopi In Hound, Koto, & Tad Dance If % * TZiking, Hiking, HoK&zback Kiding, SMimming ^ ^ * Tot lot * ReAionabti. fanilu Ratu ^ * * I Moonlight Festival Saturday Night, August 14th * * * * INSTRUCTORS: MIIUe & Vern VON KoNsliy* I FOR INFORMATION & RESERVATIONS t ^ (for Full Week or Moonlight Festival Weekend) ^ * Contact: Office of Parks & Recreation * * 1520 Lakeside Drive, Oakland, CA 94612 * t Telephone: (415) 273-3896 * ?^ t ^ ^ 1 fii ^ _j. _j. _i. l/l en 3= O 3 1/) OJ T3 "O CO 0 00 CO -h —|T3 3 O) -h -s D> OJ f-l 00 CL 3=T3 3 •<-a -09- BJ 0 —' CNJ < -s r+ fD 3 0 -s (D a> 0 -5 0 n OJ 3- OJ OJ X! 0 < -s o> OJ fD fD 0 e Qj 00 3 3 fD -hO CTt OS ^ 3 O- Z2 C-+ 0 -5 0 CO 0 =J- -s tT> "O £Z OJ fD S 0 s CO -^ t—' 0- Z3 < o>SI = "SOJ 0 7r 0 oo r+ r— CU 1 - l/l l/l BJ CL 3 3 c-> cr T3 fD fD -s CQ —1 O- o O) __1. tD < 0 fD 3 fD Q- 01 K-* 0 3" CL <-!• Cl. 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