Mahabalipuram's gods of stone The Shore Temple A prominent seaport that finds mention in the works of ancient mariners, historians and travellers, Mahabalipuram (also known as Mammalapuram and Kadalmallai) is one of the oldest sites in India. It has been written about by Ptolemy and Hiuen Tsang and has been marked in a Spanish world map called Carta Catalana in the 14th century, where the site is referred to as Setemelti, probably referring to it as “Sette Templi” or Seven Temples in Spanish. It is said that there was evidence of trade with Rome, China and other Southeast Asian countries and it was a thriving port during the Pallava regime between the 7th and 10th centuries. Another view of the Shore Temple Our history books have taught us that seven pagodas or such temples were initially constructed and the lone survivor is today a UNESCO World heritage Site. Built by the Pallavas, there are three temples here – two dedicated to Shiva and the other to Vishnu. Here the sculpture of Vishnu is found sleeping, hence the deity is known as Sthala Shayana Perumal or Ananthasayana. It is said that Vishnu reclines on the floor listening silently to the sounds of names. It is pretty dark in there and one has to strain to catch the glimpse of the God asleep. An unfinished enclosure, with rows of sculpted Nandis, greets you. Recent excavations have unearthed various sculptures and shrines near the temple. Arjuna’s Penance This is sheer poetry on stone. Carved on a rock face are stories relating to deities and mortals. The scene is supposedly taken from the Mahabharata when Arjuna performed a penance to please Shiva and to obtain a weapon from him to fight the war. There is also the perspective that this carving could represent Ganga’s descent to earth after Bhagiratha’s penance to Shiva. The Five Rathas The five monoliths are a tribute to the Pandavas of the Mahabharatha. The Pallavas built five Rathas or chariots for Dharmaraja (Yudhishtira), Bheema, Arjuna, Sahadeva-Nakula and Draupadi. The monolithic temples are known locally as Rathas, as they resemble the processional chariots of a temple. They were carved out of a single rock and some of them are three- storied (like the Dharamaraja Ratha) and single-storied (like the Draupadi Ratha). Krishna Mandapa Another favourite structure is a mandapa dedicated to Krishna. The bas relief portrays scenes out of the deity’s life, including that of Krishna lifting Govardhana Giri to protect his people from the storm created by Lord Indra. Tiger’s Cave, Yali Mandapam or Durga’s Cave Ringed by casuarina trees, the Tiger’s Cave is actually a misnomer. It is dedicated to Goddess Durga and covered by countless heads of the mythical creature Yali, lending the name – Tiger to this cave temple. It is located 5 km before the Mahabalipuram. Tiger’s Cave – Athiranachanda Cave Temple Massive pillars, columns, carvings and a Shivalinga inside, this is one of my favourite cave temples in Tiger’s Cave. Athirachanda was probably one of the names of the Pallava king Rajasimha and inscriptions say that the king dedicated the temple to Shiva and decided to name it after himself. Butter Ball You would need more than an entire day to spend in Mahabalipuram. Climb up the old lighthouse, try balancing the Butter Ball or spend time at the beach or visit more monuments. My personal favourites are the Pindari Ratha, the Ganesha Ratha, the Varaha Mandapa and the Panchapandava mandapa among others. .