CHINA HOW TO HIT THE HOTSPOTS From the Wall to the Warriors, China has something to offer every visitor. Here’s our guide to making the most of your time in the Middle Kingdom. By Katie Roberts and Monica Pitrelli October14 259 TRAVEL BEIJING The Forbidden City SEE China’s capital is a sprawling mega-city partitions do not allow much privacy.) T IP: Seeing any city of 21 million people and five-and-a-half An intriguing custom to follow with a local resident as guide can make million cars (not all on the road at the when passing through the doorway for a more meaningful – and less stressful! same time, thanks to the “odds and of a home or temple is to avoid – experience. The ultra-professional team at evens” number-plate system). But it’s standing or stepping on the a city of contrasts: away from the wide wooden threshold, known as Bespoke Beijing offers set and customised boulevards lined with grand, statement “the edge of difficulty”. It’s meant itineraries around Beijing with knowledgeable buildings, which feel more akin to a to keep out the evil spirits, who and caring guides who speak excellent English. European capital, are the narrow, grey have no knees and cannot jump. (Frank and Michael are highly recommended.) hutongs, or traditional neighbourhoods. Kids will be fascinated to meet While the tours are not cheap, they do Many of these historic warrens some of the personalities who call the maximise the Beijing experience. are within walking distance of two hutongs home, but a guide is essential bespoke-beijing.com of Beijing’s best-known sights: the for translation. Retired cricket-trainer Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. (the insect, not the bat-and-ball sport), The central area that includes these 64-year-old Mr Liu, welcomes people into eight years will enjoy, and be prepared landmarks is one of just a handful that his home for insights into the thousand- for walking, walking and more walking. tourists should concentrate on. Others, year-old tradition of cricket-fighting. He The “city” itself is 750 meters from east a taxi ride away, include the shopping proudly shows off the champion status to west, and 960 meters from north and night-life enclave of Sanlitun, the of his crickets, and the accoutrements to south. There are reportedly 9,999 art galleries of quirky 798 district, and required for breeding them. There’s even rooms, the moat is 52 metres wide and the renowned Summer Palace. a tiny wedding chamber and, of course, there are 308 copper pots that were Though many hutongs were coffins. Hugely popular, the fights are used to hold water for fire-fighting. demolished a decade ago in the rush legal, though gambling on them is illegal. Once you’ve finished in the Forbidden to modernisation, the 25 that remain Eating dumplings for lunch and riding City, if it’s a clear day and you’ve still standing are protected. One of these is a rickshaw through the narrow alleys is got some stamina, walk directly across Wudaoying, close to the Forbidden City a fun way to take in the pace of hutong the road from the northern exit to the and home to the Drum Tower, once the daily life. Stunning Lama Temple, lookout in Jingshan Park. The view city’s time-keeper. While many residents Houhai Lake and Beihai Park are over this part of Beijing is stunning and have sold and moved out to high-rise all easily accessible from Wudaoying, you will understand, seeing the size of developments, there’s a certain feel to and a boat ride across the lakes of the Forbidden City, why your feet are the hutongs that no apartment complex Houhai or Beihai at sunset is highly throbbing. can replicate. recommended. It’s probably sensible to visit Tiananmen The narrow lanes, high walls and In a half day it’s possible to take Square before all of this (it’s directly across large, forbidding wooden doors conceal in Tiananmen Square after a self- from the southern entry point), but if you’re quaint courtyards shared by residents, guided visit to the enormous 73-hectare happy to retrace your steps, or hail a taxi, often extended family. Also shared, Forbidden City (40 RMB, S$8). Get it’s interesting to see the square at sunset, by tourists and residents alike, are kitted out with an audio guide (an when the Chinese flag is lowered by the public toilets. (Warning: the low additional 40 RMB), which kids above soldiers in a patriotic ceremony. 260 October14 CHINA KID-FRI ENDLY Hotel Highlight: Kerry Hotel Beijing CALLING ALL KIDS Located in the ROOM Contemporary comfort is probably ultra-modern CBD district, littered with the best description for the 486 rooms corporate offices and the eccentrically decorated in soothing silver and grey designed CCTV Tower (nicknamed tones with sumptuous furnishings and “underpants” by locals for obvious soft carpet underfoot. Nothing has reasons), the Kerry Hotel is geared been forgotten: complimentary up for families and energetic kids. mini-bar, BOSE Unpretentious and ultra-comfortable, this sound dock, five-star Shangri-La offshoot has a new Nespresso coffee shower, bathroom adventure and sports centre. machine, rain mirror with built- in television, and a toilet that eerily seems to second guess every (ahem) movement. Guests on Club Floors are entitled to 24-hour access to the 18th- floor Club Lounge with complimentary cocktails and canapés every evening. Breakfast is served there daily, too. RESTAURANTS: As the first Beijing restaurant with an open kitchen, Kerry’s Kitchen is renowned for its huge buffet breakfasts, easy lunches and a dinner selection of international favourites. To satisfy a craving for the legendary Beijing dish, Peking duck, visit The Horizon where Chef Yuan Chao Ying grills the finest farmed ducks over jujube wood for a crispy, melt-in-the-mouth experience. For night owls, Centro is a popular bar with live music. RECREATION Within the hotel, Kerry Sports is a state-of-the-art gym with fitness classes and a 35-metre swimming pool. The best bit, as far as kids are concerned, is the Adventure Zone. Children from six months to 12 years will burn off energy on the challenging slides, soft play equipment and high-quality toys. RATING This is a brilliant hotel with something for every member of the family, and unbeatable value for a five- star property. Within easy reach of the hotel are the Silk and Sanlitun markets and the embassy district. The Forbidden City is about a 15-minute taxi ride. From S$300 per night. thekerryhotels.com October14 261 TRAVEL 262 October14 CHINA Hotel Highlight: LUXURY Aman Summer palace Aman Summer Palace is a tranquil shelter T IP: from the bustle of Beijing, though just one wall away from one of the city’s biggest attractions. Hotel guests get private access to the Summer Palace through a secret door LOCATION: It is located in northeast Beijing – about that links the two properties. Not only 40 minutes by car from the city centre – in a walled compound to the east of the famous Summer Palace. do you avoid entrance fees and queues, but you can go before or after official A wall separates the hotel from the former imperial opening times to living quarters inside the palace. escape the crowds. LOOK: Think weeping willows, bamboo-lined stone paths, painted corridors and Chinese courtyards. The hotel blends seamlessly with the imperial architecture of the classes (with or without Reformer machines), a grand spa Summer Palace – as it should: many of the buildings experience, a luxury gym workout and a nightly film in the are over 100 years old. There are no lifts, no signs of any hotel cinema. Three on-site restaurants offer traditional kind, no grand ballrooms and no tour groups. It’s a quiet, Chinese (including an absolutely exquisite platter of regal place – a place to reflect after days spent battling Peking duck), French and kaiseki-style Japanese fare. legions of tourists at the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Breakfasts are, of course, made to order. Square, a place where you can expect to dine, swim and stroll in peace. LASTING IMPRESSIONS: A few things not to miss at Aman Summer Palace: afternoon tea on the terrace LUXURY: Rooms boast carved Chinese walls, gabled of the lotus pond, learning Chinese calligraphy ceilings, fine Chinese porcelain and Bose speakers in the Cultural Pavilion, participating in the daily from which emanate the soft sounds of mandolin strings. tea ceremony, and enjoying a morning picnic of Chinese tea, baked goods and complimentary mini-bar viennoiseries and smoked salmon on the palace drinks are replenished daily. There are only 50 rooms grounds before the gates open to the general public. and suites, though guests can still enjoy private Pilates amanresorts.com WHAT IS THE SUMMER PALACE? Building of the former summer home of the Chinese imperial family was started in 1153 and not completed until the mid-1700s. It was abandoned in the 1920s and 30s after the fall of the last emperor, and renovated from head to toe before the 2008 Beijing Summer Olympics. The site – which is dominated by the man- made Kunming Lake – features gardens, former imperial living quarters and a temple, and is now one of Beijing’s main tourist draws. Summer Palace Amanresorts by Photos October14 263 TRAVEL THE GREAT WALL It’s a wall steeped in legend, myths and, well… shockingly steep inclines. It’s also one of the biggest tourist attractions in the world. SEE Popular sections of the Great Wall include: • Badaling – the most visited section of the Wall.