The 2019 Ethical Fashion Report THE TRUTH BEHIND THE BARCODE THE 2019 ETHICAL FASHION REPORT THE TRUTH BEHIND THE BARCODE Date: April 2019 Project Leads: Libby Sanders, Jasmin Mawson, Claire Hart Lead Researchers: Jessica Tatzenko, Annie Hollister-Jones Researcher Support: Meredith Ryland, Luke Medic, Emily Taylor Behind the Barcode is a project of Baptist World Aid Australia. New Zealand headquartered companies researched in partnership with Tearfund New Zealand. tearfund.org.nz/ethicalfashion Report Design: Susanne Geppert Front cover photo: © Baptist World Aid Australia World © Baptist photo: cover Front Infographics (pp 10–11): Cadence Media 2 CONTENTS 1. Executive Summary .......................................4 2. Methodology ............................................... 13 3. Industry Influences ...................................... 18 4. Policies ........................................................26 5. Traceability and Transparency ....................29 6. Auditing and Supplier Relationships ...........34 Appendices 7. Worker Empowerment ................................38 Statements from non-responsive brands 91 Letter from auditor 95 8. Environmental Management ....................... 41 Sources 96 ................................................. 9. Brand Index 46 About Baptist World Aid Australia 97 10. Survey Data .................................................65 Acknowledgments 98 3 Executive Summary This section outlines the research aims and scope; data collection and findings; 1and overall results of all companies. 4 OVERALL GRADE OVERALL O andexploitation intheir supplychains. labour, child labour, mitigate againstthe risksofforced oftheir systemsto based onthe strength A+toF, Report grades130companiesfrom fashion industry.The2019Ethical Fashion managementsystemsinthe environmental onlabourrightsand consecutive report Aidispleasedtodeliver itssixth Baptist World INTRODUCTION EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Transparency and Transparency verall Grades empowerment Environmental Environmental management Auditing and Auditing relationships Traceability supplier Policies Worker Worker D F D– D– B– Abercrombie & Fitch* D– A B– B+ A+ A+ adidas A : A–M A– D– B– A– A+ ALDI Stores B– F F F F F Ally Fashion* F F C– C– D+ A+ Anthea Crawford* C B B– A A+ A+ APG & Co. A– C D– C– B A+ Arcadia Group C+ A– B– A– A+ A+ AS Colour A– B D– C B A ASICS C B C– B A– A+ ASOS B F F F F F Baby City* F F F D– C– A– Bardot D+ C+ D D+ B+ A+ Barkers Clothing* C+ F F F F F Bec and Bridge* F F D– C– C– A– Ben Sherman Australia D+ C+ D– C C+ A+ Best & Less C F F D D+ A– Betts Group D C– D+ C B+ A+ Big W B– F F F F F Bloch* F B+ D C+ C+ A+ Blue Illusion C+ C– D C C– A– Boardriders C– D D+ C+ B+ A+ Boden C+ Excitingly, in addition to its traditional focus on focus itstraditional inadditionto Excitingly, C D– C C– A– Boohoo C– theworld, millions ofothersacross andfor region, intheAsiaPacific the43millionworkers For management. environmental oflabourrightsand inthearenas performance industry’s shedding lightontheglobalfashion process, engagedintheresearch actively assessed ofcompanies 75% In2019, criteria. assessment managementmetricsinthe environmental new alsoincorporates research labour rights,thisyear’s D D D+ C+ A+ Brand Collective (Apparel) C D C– C B A+ Brand Collective (Footwear) C+ F F F F F Camilla and Marc* F D+ D C A– A+ Canterbury NZ C+ D C+ A– A A+ City Chic Collective B+ F F D C+ A– Coles* D+ B+ B A– A+ A+ Cotton On Group A– B+ B A A A+ Country Road Group A– F D+ C– D A Cue C– B– C– B B+ A+ David Jones B F F F F B+ Decjuba* D– C– D C+ C+ A+ Designworks C+ A+ A+ A– A A+ Etiko A+ F F D D+ A Ezibuy D+ C+ C– C– A– A+ Factory X B– F F F F B Farmers* F D F D D A– Fast Future Brands D D F F F C Forever 21* D– B+ C– C+ A– A+ Forever New B A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ Freeset T–Shirts A+ D– D– D C A Fruit of the Loom* D+ A– D+ C+ A A+ Gap Inc. B F F F F A+ Gazal* D– B+ D+ B B+ A+ General Pants Group B 1 A– C+ A A A+ Gildan Activewear A– B+ C– C A– A+ Gorman B A+ C– B– A– A+ H&M B+ B+ C+ B A– A+ Hallenstein Glasson Holdings B+ A+ B+ A+ A A+ Hanesbrands A F F F F F Hot Springs* F millions. for ofexploitation is a source industry thefashion however, thesametime, At communities. andtheir ofworkers thelives to improving contribute do, can,andoften All of thesefactors exchange. crucialforeign anddelivers training, skillsand valuable provides taxrevenue, generates growth, Italsospurseconomic employer. asignificant remains industry the globalfashion D– D– C+ B– A+ House of Quirky C D+ D C– A A+ Huffer B– B D C– B+ A+ Hugo Boss Group C+ C– F D C A– Hunting & Fishing NZ D+ A+ A– A+ A+ A+ Icebreaker A+ A+ B+ A A A+ Inditex A A+ B+ B B+ A+ Industrie A– A C B+ A– A+ Jeanswest B+ C F D+ C+ A+ JETS C D+ D+ B– C+ A+ Just Group C+ F D– D+ C A+ K&K C– B– C– B B– A+ Karen Walker* B D F D– C– A+ Kate Sylvester* D+ B+ B+ A– A+ A+ Kathmandu A C– C– B+ A A+ Kmart Australia B+ B+ B– A– A– A+ Kookai A– * A+ A– A A+ A+ Kowtow A+ = A– D+ B+ B+ A+ L Brands B companies non-responsive D+ F D+ C– A+ Lacoste C– A+ D– B– A– A+ Levi Strauss & Co.* B A+ A+ B+ A+ A+ Liminal Apparel A+ F C– B– B– A+ Lorna Jane C+ F F F F B– Lowes* F A– B– A+ A A+ Lululemon Athletica A– C+ D+ B– B A+ Macpac B– A+ D+ C A+ A+ Marks & Spencer B+ F D C B A+ Max* C F F F F F Merric Apparel NZ* F 5 OVERALL GRADE OVERALL O concern. continued for reasons remain conditions working andunsafe factories, within defects structural safety, fire improved, have standards safety Inaddition,whilst child labour. and ofslavery by theprevalence ismarred Pacific theAsia throughout production this, fashion Beyond ofpoverty. inthecycle trapped families, them,andtheir itleaves that solow are wages industry, inthefashion themajorityofworkers For INTRODUCTION EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Transparency and Transparency verall Grades empowerment Environmental Environmental management Auditing and Auditing relationships Traceability supplier Policies Worker Worker A+ A+ B+ A+ A+ Mighty Good Group A+ F F D– D A– Munro Footwear Group D : M–Z D+ D+ B C+ A+ Myer B– A+ B– A– A– A+ Nature Baby A– B+ D C+ A– A+ New Balance B B– D– B– B+ A+ Next B– A+ D– C A– A+ Nike B– A B+ B+ A+ A+ Nobody Denim A– F F D D+ A– Noni B Group D B+ B– B– A A+ Nudie Jeans Co. B+ F D+ B C+ A+ Oroton Group C+ A+ A+ A+ A+ A+ Outland Denim A+ D F D D A Oxford D F D– C– B– A+ Pagani C– A+ B A A+ A+ Patagonia A F F F D– F Pavement United Brands* F C C– D+ C A+ Postie+ C A D+ B A– A+ Puma B B– D– C B+ A+ PVH Corp.* C+ D D– B A– A+ R.M. Williams B– D+ F D+ B– A+ Ralph Lauren* C– D+ D– B B A Retail Apparel Group C+ For six years, this research hasassessed thisresearch sixyears, For B D+ B A A+ Rip Curl B+ theearth,andatmosphere waterways, keep to andmanagesitsfootprint on theenvironment itsimpact italsounderstands them alivingwage, andpays workers itssupplychainempowers that notonlyensures a“trulyethical”company that acknowledged we Report, EthicalFashion 2018 Inthe their labourrightsmanagementsystems. of theglobeonstrength across companies A– B– B– A A+ Rodd & Gunn A– A+ B+ B+ A+ A+ RREPP A C– D+ C– C A+ Ruby Apparel C A D B+ B A+ Seafolly B D D– C– C– A+ Seed Heritage C– F F F F F Showpo* F F F D+ D+ A Simon de Winter Group D+ C+ C+ B+ B A+ Sussan Group B B D+ D+ B A+ Swanndri NZ C+ F F F F F 3 Wise Men Ltd.* F F F F F F T&T Fashions* F C– C– B A– A+ Target Australia B F F F F F The Baby Factory* F C+ D– C– B A+ The Iconic* C+ * = D F C– C A+ The PAS Group C– C– D+ B– A– A+ The Warehouse Group B– companies non-responsive D– F F D C– Tigerlily* D– D D+ C C A Tree of Life C F F F F B+ Trelise Cooper* F A+ D B+ A A+ UNIQLO B+ A+ D+ C+ A– A+ VF Corp. B F F F F F Voyager Distributing Co.* F F F F F F Wish Designs* F D D C+ B– A Workwear Group C F F F F A WORLD* D– D+ C+ B C+ A Zimmermann B– consideration oftheirfinalgrade. consideration in their labourrightsmanagementsystems, alongside managementsystems, environmental ontheir companies will assess Report Fashion theEthicalyear that isthefirst management. This of poorenvironmental detrimental effects the feel acutely most supplychainthat fashion inthe itistheworkers Correspondingly, healthy. tearfund.org.nz/ethicalfashion on page45oronline at grades, gotothe brandindex checkbrand 480 brands.To These 130 companiesrepresent 6 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY INDUSTRY PROGRESS The annual nature of this research enables us to track the progress in ethical sourcing, made by the fashion industry. Since last year, improvements have been made across the industry in 79% of the areas assessed. Most noteworthy areas of improvement in 2019 are: Gender inequality 61% of companies (an increase of 22%) have created policies addressing gender inequality in their supply chain, including the introduction of strategies addressing discrimination faced by women.