GREAT BRITISH BRANDS 2016 | ON FASHION Alexander McQueen Fantastic visions, underpinned by sharp tailoring, as Alexander McQueen continues to thrill the world... ounded in 1992 by the incredibly talented and and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing. uncompromising designer Lee McQueen, Alexander Sarah Burton, who also attended Central Saint Martins, McQueen became one of the most respected fashion was introduced to Lee at the recommendation of her tutor houses in the world in less than ten years. Simon Ungless. She completed an internship with the Lee began his career with apprenticeships company in 1996 only to return the following year and, in Fat the traditional Savile Row tailors, Anderson & 2000, became Head of Womenswear Design. Burton worked Sheppard and Gieves & Hawkes. From there, he closely with Lee for 14 years and was subsequently appointed moved to theatrical costumiers, Angels and Creative Director in May 2010 following Bermans, and through these experiences he Shows are known for the passing of the founder. was able to master both the pattern-cutting In celebration of Lee’s talent and techniques and razor-sharp tailoring, which their emotional power achievements, the Costume Institute have become the signature of the house. Lee and raw energy, as well organised a retrospective exhibition of his completed a Masters degree in Fashion Design work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in at Central Saint Martins, where his graduate as the romantic and 2011. Entitled Savage Beauty, the exhibition collection was bought in its entirety by the contemporary nature of became one of its most successful fashion British fashion editor, Isabella Blow. exhibitions. In 2015, the Victoria and Albert Alexander McQueen shows are known for the collections Museum, London, hosted the exhibition, their emotional power and raw energy, as well this time with additional pieces, as well as as the romantic and contemporary nature of the collections. a brand new ‘London’ gallery. It was to become the most visited Integral to the McQueen culture is the juxtaposition of contrasting exhibition in the V&A’s history. elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity Since her appointment, Burton has seamlessly assimilated her and severity. An openly emotional and even passionate viewpoint vision with the design codes of the house, producing critically is realised with a profound respect and influence for the arts acclaimed collections with a focus on handcraft, establishing and crafts tradition. McQueen’s collections combine an in-depth herself as a highly accomplished designer with artisanal and working knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, fine workmanship technical expertise. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: S/S’16 womenswear; S/S’16 menswear; A/W’ 15 womenswear; S/S’16 womenswear; S/S’16 womenswear Burton received global recognition as the design elements. Bal Harbour, Miami, would designer of HRH the Duchess of Cambridge’s become the first of a series of stores launched in wedding dress in April 2011, and was also honoured this new concept. In 2012, Alexander McQueen launched as Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards in its first menswear flagship at 9 Savile Row, as well as an in- the same year. Time magazine listed her as one of its 100 house bespoke tailoring service. ‘The new menswear store most influential people in 2012 and Burton was awarded is like a homecoming for Alexander McQueen,’ says Sarah an Order of the British Empire (OBE) for her services to Burton, ‘since Lee himself was an apprentice on Savile Row the British fashion industry in June 2012. and tailoring has always been the backbone of the label.’ Burton was also focused on developing the retail network The following year, McQueen’s London flagship on Old of Alexander McQueen. Together with David Collins Studio, Bond Street was also refurbished to reflect this new concept they realised a brand new retail concept that showcased and, in 2015, McQueen finally launched its long-awaited craftsmanship as well as the luxurious sensibilities of the house. debut flagship in Paris bringing it to a total of 42 stores Bespoke plaster wall panelling and marble flooring, alongside worldwide, with key cities including New York, Los Angeles, deep pile carpets, gold and brass gilded shelving and display Milan, Vienna, Monaco, Tokyo, Beijing, Shanghai, units finished with brass animal hoofs, were just some of the key Hong Kong and Singapore, to name but a few. LEFT TO RIGHT: Alexander McQueen flagship store, Bond Street; Alexander McQueen Paris store interior ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 4–5 OLD BOND STREET, LONDON W1S 4PD +44 (0)20 7355 0088 ALEXANDERMCQUEEN.COM 88 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK /GBB COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK /GBB | 89 .