©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd China H‰ilóngjiƒng p331 Jílín p320 B›ij¸ng p54 Liáoníng X¸njiƒng Inner Mongolia p302 p792 p866 Tiƒnj¸n & Héb›i p127 Níngxià Shƒnx¸ p346 ShƒndŸng p855 p151 Jiƒngs¥ Q¸ngh†i Shaanxi p231 p880 Gƒnsù Hénán Tibet (Sh†nx¸) p408 p823 p366 „nhu¸ Shàngh†i p897 Húb›i p388 p186 SìchuƒnChóngqìng p428 p770 Jiƒngx¸ Zhèjiƒng p717 Húnán p258 GuìzhŸu p464 p442 p630 Fújiàn Yúnnán Gu†ngdŸng p281 p652 Gu†ngx¸ p603 p550 Hong Kong p489 H†inán Macau p587 p528 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Damian Harper, Piera Chen, Chung Wah Chow, Megan Eaves, David Eimer, Tienlon Ho, Robert Kelly, Shawn Low, Emily Matchar, Bradley Mayhew, Daniel McCrohan, Dai Min, Phillip Tang PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to China . 6 BĚIJĪNG . 54 ZHÈJIĀNG . 258 China Map . 8 Around Běijīng . 114 Hángzhōu . 260 . China’s Top 30 . 10 The Great Wall 114 Wūzhèn . 272 Ming Tombs . 114 Xīn’ānjiāng . 274 Need to Know . 26 Chuāndǐxià . 115 Pǔtuóshān . 276 First Time . 28 Marco Polo Bridge & Wǎnpíng Town . 116 If You Like… . 30 FÚJIÀN . 281 Xiàmén . 283 Month by Month . 33 THE GREAT WALL . .. 117 Gǔlàng Yǔ . 289 Itineraries . 37 Great Wall History . 117 Fújiàn Tǔlóu . 291 Off the Beaten Track . 44 Visiting the Wall . 118 Quánzhōu . 294 Mùtiányù . 118 Regions at a Glance . 46 Fúzhōu . .298 Gǔběikǒu . 119 Wǔyí Shān . 299 Jiànkòu . 120 Zhuàngdàokǒu . 121 LIÁONÍNG . 302 Jīnshānlǐng . 122 Shěnyáng . 304 Bādálǐng . 123 Dàlián . 308 K-KING PHOTOGRAPHY MEDIA CO. LTD / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / LTD CO. MEDIA PHOTOGRAPHY K-KING Dāndōng . 314 TIĀNJĪN & HÉBĚI . 127 Xīngchéng . 318 Tiānjīn . 129 Héběi . 135 JÍLÍN . 320 Shíjiāzhuāng . 135 Chángbái Shān . 322 Chéngdé . 141 Yánjí . 324 Shānhǎiguān . 147 Jí’ān . 325 Jīmíngyì . 149 Běidàhú Ski Resort . 327 SHĀNDŌNG . 151 Chángchūn . 327 OPERA P977 Jǐ’nán . 153 Tài’ān & Tài Shān . 157 HĒILÓNGJIĀNG . 331 Qūfù . 164 Hā’ěrbīn . 333 Mǔdānjiāng . 340 LARS RUECKER /GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES /GETTY RUECKER LARS Qīngdǎo . 170 Láo Shān . 179 Wǔdàlián Chí . 342 Yāntái . 180 Russian Borderlands . 345 SHÀNGHǍI . 186 SHĀNXĪ . 346 Around Shànghǎi . 230 Dàtóng . 348 Zhūjiājiǎo . 230 Wǔtái Shān . 352 Tàiyuán . 355 JIĀNGSŪ . 231 Píngyáo . 358 Nánjīng . 233 Qìkǒu . 363 CHINESE CUISINE P956 Sūzhōu . 244 Jìnchéng . 364 Around Sūzhōu . .. 253 Contents SHAANXI HÚNÁN . .. 464 GUǍNGXĪ . 603 (SHǍNXĪ) . 366 Chángshā . 466 Guìlín . 605 Xī’ān . 368 Sháoshān . 470 Lóngjĭ Rice Terraces . 611 Huà Shān . 380 Héng Shān . 472 Sānjiāng . 614 Hánchéng . 382 Zhāngjiājiè . 474 Yángshuò . 615 Yán’ān . 384 Fènghuáng . 478 Huángyáo . 619 Yúlín . 386 Hóngjiāng Old Town . 482 Nánníng . 620 Mǐzhǐ . 387 Yángměi . 623 HONG KONG . 489 Běihǎi . 623 ĀNHUĪ . 388 Wéizhōu Island . 626 Túnxī . 390 MACAU . 528 Huāshān Cliff Murals . 626 Huīzhōu Villages . 393 Píngxiáng . 627 Huángshān . 399 Lèyè . 628 GUǍNGDŌNG . 550 Jiǔhuá Shān . 404 Guǎngzhōu . 552 Héféi . 406 GUÌZHŌU . 630 Fóshān . 566 Central Guìzhōu . 632 Kāipíng . 567 HÉNÁN . 408 Guìyáng . .. 632 Yángjiāng . 569 Qīngyán . .. 635 Zhèngzhōu . 410 Zhàoqìng . 571 Eastern Guìzhōu . 635 Nánjiēcūn . 413 Qīngyuǎn . 573 Kǎilǐ . 636 Sōng Shān & Nánlǐng National Dēngfēng . 413 Forest Park . 574 Zhènyuǎn . 641 Luòyáng . 416 Shēnzhèn . 575 Western Guìzhōu . 644 Around Luòyáng . 419 Zhūhǎi . 579 Ānshùn . 644 Guōliàngcūn . 421 Cháozhōu . 580 Wēiníng . 648 Kāifēng . 422 Méizhōu . 584 Northern Guìzhōu . 649 Zhūxiān Zhèn . 427 Dàbù . 585 Chìshuǐ . 649 Cháyáng Old Town . 585 HÚBĚI . 428 Băihóu Old Town . 586 YÚNNÁN . 652 Wǔhàn . 430 Huā’è Lóu . 586 Central Yúnnán . 654 Jīngzhōu . 435 Kūnmíng . 654 Wǔdāng Shān . 436 HǍINÁN . 587 Shílín . 664 Shénnóngjià . 439 Hǎikǒu . 589 Hēijǐng . 664 Yíchāng . 440 Central Highlands . 593 Jiànshuǐ . .665 Wǔzhǐshān City Yuányáng Rice JIĀNGXĪ . 442 (Tōngshí) . 594 Terraces . 667 Xiàguān . .. 668 Nánchāng . 444 The East Coast . 595 Wēishān . 669 Jǐngdézhèn . 448 Bó’áo . 596 Wēibǎo Shān . 670 Wùyuán . 449 Shíméi Bay & Sun & Moon Bay . .598 Dàlǐ . .. 670 Sānqīng Mountain . 453 Sānyà . 598 Nuòdèng . 676 Lónghǔ Mountain . 455 Shāxī . 677 ON THE ROAD Northwest Yúnnán . 678 Lìjiāng . 678 © IMAGES /GETTY MUNRO MATT Báishā . 684 Shùhé Old Town . 685 Yùlóng Xuěshān . 686 Tiger Leaping Gorge . 687 Lúgū Hú . 690 Shangri-la (Zhōngdiàn) . 691 Déqīn . 696 Nù Jiāng Valley . 698 Liùkù . 698 HÚTÒNG, BĚIJĪNG P54 Fúgòng . 699 Bǐngzhōngluò . 699 Dúlóng Valley . 700 Jiǔzhàigōu Kashgar . .. 806 National Park . 764 Bǎoshān Region . 700 Karakoram Highway . 812 Téngchōng . 700 Lángzhōng . 767 Southern Silk Road . 814 Déhóng Prefecture . 703 Yengisar . 814 Ruìlì . 703 CHÓNGQÌNG . 770 Yarkand . 814 Xīshuāngbǎnnà Chóngqìng City . 772 Karghilik . 816 Region . 706 Dàzú Buddhist Caves . 783 Hotan . 817 Jǐnghóng . 707 Zhōngshān . 785 Cherchen . 819 Sōngji . 785 Charklik . .. 820 SÌCHUĀN . 717 Northern Xīnjiāng . .. 820 Central Sìchuān . 720 CRUISING THE Bù’ěrjīn . 820 Chéngdū . 721 YANGZI . 786 Kanas Lake Nature Reserve . 821 Éméi Shān . 734 The Three Gorges . .. 786 Yīníng . 821 Lè Shān . 737 The River . 787 Sayram Lake . 822 Southern Sìchuān . 739 The Route . 787 Zìgòng . 740 Boats . 789 Yíbīn . 741 Tickets . 791 GĀNSÙ . 823 Bamboo Sea . 742 Lánzhōu & Southern Gānsù . 825 Western Sìchuān . 743 XĪNJIĀNG . 792 Kāngdìng . 744 Lánzhōu . 825 Central Xīnjiāng . 795 Dānbā . 748 Línxià . .. 829 Ürümqi (Wūlǔmùqí) . 795 Xiàhé . 830 Sìchuān–Tibet Highway Tiān Chí . .. 800 (Northern Route) . 749 Hézuò . 835 Turpan . 801 Sìchuān–Tibet Highway Lángmùsì . 836 (Southern Route) . 755 Hāmì (Kumul) . 804 Héxī Corridor . 838 Northern Sìchuān . 760 Kuqa . 805 Wǔwēi . 838 Sōngpān . 760 Southwest Zhāngyè . 840 Xīnjiāng – Kashgaria . 806 Contents UNDERSTAND Mǎtí Sì . 841 TIBET . 897 China Today . 922 Jiāyùguān & Lhasa . .. 902 History . 924 Around . 842 Ganden Monastery . 911 Dūnhuáng . 845 People of China . 945 Nam-tso . 911 Eastern Gānsù . 851 Religion Samye Monastery . 911 Tiānshuǐ . 851 & Philosophy . 949 The Friendship Píngliáng . 853 Highway . 912 Chinese Cuisine . 956 Yamdrok-Tso . 912 Arts & Architecture . 967 NÍNGXIÀ . 855 Gyantse . 912 China’s Landscapes . 981 Yínchuān . 857 Shigatse . 913 Zhōngwèi . 862 Sakya . 916 Martial Arts of China . 988 Gùyuán & Around . 864 Rongphu Monastery & Everest Base Camp . 917 INNER MONGOLIA . 866 Zhāngmù . 918 Western Tibet . 918 Hohhot . 868 Mt Kailash . 920 SURVIVAL Shàngdū (Xanadu) . 872 Lake Manasarovar . 920 GUIDE Bāotóu . 873 Wǔdāng Lamasery . 874 Directory A–Z . 992 Genghis Khan Mausoleum . 874 Transport . 1005 Hǎilā’ěr . 874 China by Train . 1012 Mǎnzhōulǐ . .. 878 Health . .. 1017 QĪNGHǍI . 880 Language . 1023 Xīníng . 882 Index . 1037 Tóngrén (Repkong) . 890 Map Legend . 1053 Guìdé . 891 Yùshù (Jyekundo) . 893 Golmud . 896 SPECIAL FEATURES Off the Beaten Track Map . 44 Forbidden City Walking Tour . 62 Hútòng walking tour . 79 Guide to the Bund . 196 China’s Best Cuisine, Temples & Hikes . 458 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 37 Itineraries RUSSIA KAZAKHSTAN MONGOLIA NORTH KOREA KYRGYZSTAN Yúngāng É #_BĚIJĪNG •# Dūnhuáng Caves •# RWǔtái É Shān Píngyáo •# É Luòyáng •# É •# Kāifēng R •# Huà Shān Xī’ān TIBET NEPAL BHUTAN INDIA INDIA MYANMAR BANGLADESH PACIFIC (BURMA) OCEAN 4 WEEKS Northern Tour Běijīng is fundamental to this tour, so you’ll need at least five days to do the Forbidden City, size yourself up against the Great Wall, wander like royalty around the Summer Pal- ace and lose your bearings within the city’s hútòng (narrow alleyways). The splendour of the Yúngāng Caves outside Dàtóng should put you in a Buddhist mood, sharpened by a few nights on monastic Wǔtái Shān. We recommend a three-day stopover in Píngyáo, an age-old walled town you imagined China should look like. The historic walled city of Kāifēng in Hénán was the traditional home of China’s small community of Chinese Jews and has some remarkable night markets; move on to Luòyáng and the Buddhist spectacle of the Lóngmén Caves and the Shàolín Temple, also within reach. Four days’ sightseeing in Xī’ān brings you face-to-face with the Army of Terracotta Warriors and gives you time for the Taoist mountain of Huà Shān. Xī’ān traditionally marked the start of the Silk Road which you can follow through Gānsù province all the way to the oasis-town of Dūnhuáng, and beyond. 38 PLAN YOUR TRIP Nánjīng É Shànghǎi •# •# Three Gorges É •# •# Wǔhàn •#Huángshān Yíchāng •# •# É Dàzú •# Jīngzhōu •# IT •# Yíbīn •# Chóngqìng Lúshān I Tiger •# Sōngji NERAR •# Leaping É Gorge Chìshuǐ •# Xīchāng •# •# Lúgū Hú I Lìjiāng TAIWAN ES •# •#•#Shùhé Shāxī PACIFIC MYANMAR OCEAN (BURMA) VIETNAM 4 WEEKS Yangzi River Tour After exploring north Yúnnán’s ancient Naxi town of Lìjiāng, pick up the trail of the Jīnshā River (Gold Sand River, which spills down from Tibet and swells into the Yangzi.