Results of Bulgarian-Albanian Speleological Researches in Albania (1991-2005) Alexey Zhalov Bulgarian Federation of Speleology, 75 V. Levski, Blv. 1042 Sofia, Bulgaria E-mail: [email protected] Abstract The work presents summarized data, most of them unpublished, collected in the period (1991-2005), when 14 Bulgarian speleological expeditions were undertaken in Albania. The main explored territory covers an area of approx. 320 km2 and is located in Southern and Central part of the Albanian Alps. Some explorations have been carried out also in Mt. Dejes and Mt. Gollobordes and in South Albania in Mali I Thate Mt. and its surroundings. Two hundred and ten new caves were discovered and surveyed. The most important vertical caves are: BB-30 (- 610 m); Shpella Cilicokave (-505 m) and B33 (-205 m). 14 other caves are deeper than 100 m. The most important horizontal cave is Shpella e Majes te Arapit with total length 840 m. The largest cave chamber is in Shpella e Gjolave with an area of 8875 m 2 and volume 443 750 m3. The deepest and longest explored karst spring is Syni i Sheganit (160 m long, 52 m deep). The present article contains the main results of hydrogeological, lythological, speleo-climathological and bio- speleological studies. Key words: Albania, Bulgarian expeditions, speleology, karst, caves. 1. Brief survey of the studies of karst and speleology in Albania The first scientific researches of surface karst phenomena are made by the Albanian geographers Kristo, 1973, Gruda, 1981, 1985, 1990, Hoti, 1990 etc. The first archaeological and paleontological studies of Albanian Alps cave (Shpella Gajtanit) date back to 1923. This cave was excavated by A. Fistany in 1961, and in 1982 there were discovered fossil remains of Hominoids. Numerous underground cavities have been distributed from the pioneers of Albanian speleology - Z. Ubani, M. Uruci, G. Uruci, K. Gjilbegu, A. Codra, H. Hasa etc. (Uruci, 1994). The beginning of biospeleological studies date back to 1914, when C. Lona from Triest, collects the first Coleoptera from the caves of Mt Cukali. Some other caves were explored biospeleologically by A. Bischoff, C. Lona and A. Winkler in the period 1922-1931 (Genest & Juberthie, 1994), and later - by the Czech zoologist Hanak (Hanak, 1964) and some Italian explorers. Recently, starting from 1989, many foreign speleological expeditions have been carried out in different areas of Albania. The Italian and San-Marinian cavers had explored mainly the Albanian Alps, but some areas in Central and South Albania (Polisi, Kurvelesh, Tomor,Karaborun, Mali me Gropa etc.) were studied also. Due to the detailed and systematic investigation in the Alps were discovered many new and attractive caves. Among them are: Shpella e Pusit, deep 370 m and long 5 km (the longest cave in Albania); Shpella Uomini umidi - deep 520 m (second deepest in Albania), and Shpella e Gjek Markut - 234 m deep. The Dutch cavers made 3 expeditions in Mali me Gropa Mt. and Daiti Mt. British expeditions were held in 1992, 1995 and 1996. Some karst regions and caves were object of exploration from Belgian, Croatian, French, Polish and Slovak cavers and speleologists. The obtained results are presented in over 150 publications, referred in Speleological Abstacts Bulletin (BBS) of U.I.S. and other bibliographical publications. 2. Geographical situation of Albania Republic of Albania is situated in the west part of the Balkan peninsula, on the eastern littoral coasts of Adriatic and Jonnian seas. Its North geographical latitude is 42o 39' (Vermosh), South geographical latitude 39o38' (Konispol) and Eastern geographical longitude 21o 40' (Vernik), West geographical longitude 19o 16' (Sazan). The total area of the country is 28748 km2. Geographical landscapes are significant with variety of forms. In Albania there are typical mediterranean landscapes on the west with visible continental influences on the east; passing landscapes in the central part, mountain landscapes and especially the Alpine ones, inside and in the north of the country. Albanian territory takes part in the wrinkled alpine region, connected with seismic movements and various geological construction - sediments (mainly limestone and dolomite), magmatic and metamorphic formations. The relief is mainly hilly-mountainous, with various surface forms. 23.4 % of the territory of the country lays on 200 m above the sea level. The altitudes 200-1000 m include 48.1% of the Albanian territory and over 1000 m - 28.5%. The two highest peaks of Albania is Korab (2751 m.a.s.l.) in the same Mt. and Ezerca (2692 m.a.s.l) in Albanian Alps. The west part of Albania has Mediterranean climate, while in the internal parts of the country it is continental. In the high mountain regions there is alpine climate. In general, the precipitate average is 1480 mm in a year. In total, the average annual quantity of the precipitation changes is from 600 mm to 2100 mm. 3.Albanian Alps - tipical Alpine karts Сканирано от Хинко www.hinko.org The efforts of the Bulgarian-Albanian joint teams were pointed mainly at studying of High Mountain Karst of North Albanian Alps, so we would like to make brief presentation of this impressing mountain. The North Albanian Alps are a part of the Dinaric Mountains. It is the largest Mt in Albania, which covers an area of 2010 sq.km (TALANI, 1990). This vast area constitutes a typical karst region in Europe due to its geographical position, its climatic and geological conditions. The climate is humid with annual precipitation of 2000-2800 mm concentrated during the period October-May. The annual average temperature is 10.2 C. The Alps is built of folded and fissured Mesozoic and Paleolgene limestone with max. elevation of 2694 m. a.s.l. at peak Ezerca. Dislocations with dominant directions NE -SW and NW-SE divide the Mt. in a lot of single foult blocks. The mean coefficient of efficient infiltration is about 0.6 - 0.7 (Hyd.Geol.Map, 1981 ). The acqufer is drained by many karst springs mostly of which situated at the foot of mountain. The largest of them is Siri i Sheganit near Shkodras Lake with max. capacity 6.9 m 3/sec. in May and min. 0.300 m3/sec. In August (HOTI,1990). Fig.1 Albanian Alps - general view 4. Setting of the main explored area in Albanian Alps The area is located in the SW part of Albanian Alps between 42° 16’ 30’’ and 42° 28’ 30’’ of latitude N and 12° 23’ 00’’ and 19° 46’ 45’’ of longitude E. It covers an area of approximately 320 sq.km with the following borders: from N-NW the canyon of Semi river to Tamarja vill. and then the riverside of Semi e Vuklit river to Nikci village; from S- SE the stone road from Koplik to Theth vill.; from E the axe from Theth to Nikc villages and from W the coast of the Shkodra’s Lake from Koplik to Kastrat vill. From orographical point of view this region consists of some well grounded internal massifs jointed transversally and lengthwisly on different hypsometric levels. The main massifs looking from W to E are: Velechik (1726 m a.s.l), Pultines (1804), Dragomires(1904), Murigelles (2191), Bridashes (2125), Livadhit (2493), Radohines (2567) and Arapit (2217 m a.s.l) ( Fig 2) 5. Review of Bulgarian-Albanian and Bulgarian speleological explorations in Albania The first reconnaissance expedition was carried out in Albanian Alps in November 1991, when the first five caves were explored by A. Jalov, N. Gladnishki and N. Landjev, kindly supported by the members of Albanian Speleological Association - G. Uruci (President) and M. Quku and K. Gjylbegu. The most impressive cave is Shpella Gjolave, near to Bratosh vill., Shkodra district. From 24th July to 21st August 1992, the Bulgarian Federation of Speleology and the Albanian Speleological Association held their second joint expedition in the west part of Albanian Alps, especially the massifs Velechik, Pultina, Maja Zez and Maja Arapit. Over 100 caves were discovered, of which 52 were explored. The most interesting exploration took place in Shegan karst spring, which was explored to a length of 60 m and depth of 28 m. 2 Сканирано от Хинко www.hinko.org The third expedition was held between May 19 and June 11, 1993. The main exploration area was located in Bridash massif. Thirty eight, mainly vertical, caves were surveyed. The deepest was Shpella e Cilikokave, which was explored down to 390 m. The team went to Shpella ne Majes te Arapit to continue exploration from 1992. After diving of terminal sump (length 60 m), including some new discoveries, the total length of the cave reached 840 m. A second attempt was made to Shegan karst spring, where the explored length grew to 160 m with depth - 52 m. The sump continues, but its full exploration needs mixed gas for further diving. This expedition started the systematic geological and biospeleological studies of the area. In the end of expedition the team worked in the area of Merkuth vill., North West slope of Lura Mt., where were explored two caves. In September 1993, the 4th expedition ended with a depth record of - 505 m. This was the deepest point of Shpella Cilikokave, discovered and explored down to 390 m during the previous expedition in May, the same year. In June 1994, a group of eight cavers realized the fifth Bulgarian-Albanian expedition. Its object was the exploration of the Drugomiri massif. Twenty four vertical caves were explored. The deepest of them was BB-1 (Ice Cave) with depth 162 m. During the expedition some geological and tectonic trips were made along with biospeleological and speleo-climatological studies. In September the same year, the 9 members from speleo club "Studenetz", Pleven, went to Bridash to continue the work in the cave BB-30.