© Lonely Planet 348 North Korea NORTH KOREA Asia’s dark star and one of the most mysterious places on earth, North Korea immediately evokes images of nuclear standoff, hauntingly empty city streets and huge monuments to the cult of Kim Il-sung. More strangeness abounds: the long-dead founder of the nation remains its ‘eternal’ president and his ailing son, the Dear Leader Kim Jong-il, a man who has almost never spoken in public and about whom very little indeed is even known, is considered by the local population to be something of a living god. Welcome to the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, the world’s strangest holiday destination. It comes as a surprise to many people that you can even visit North Korea, and yet tourism to the world’s most isolated and totalitarian state is booming, relatively speaking. A few years ago South Koreans and Americans were unable to visit, all tourists were vetted by the authori- ties before visas were issued and locals would barely dare to make eye contact with foreigners. Despite still being a very repressive police state, there’s nevertheless been a little liberalisation of the rules governing visits – now South Koreans and Americans can visit with no problem and the more gregarious locals are even happy to chat and practise their English on the street. A trip here is strictly on the government’s terms though, and it’s essential to accept that you’ll have no independence during your trip – you’ll be accompanied by two government-appointed local guides at all times and only hear a one-sided view of history. Those who can’t accept this might be better off staying away – those who can will have a fascinating trip into another, unsettling world. Simply to see a country where the Cold War is still being fought and where obedience to the state is universally unquestioned is, for many, reason enough to visit. HIGHLIGHTS Marvel at the architecture, monuments and general totalitarian weirdness of Pyongyang ( p361 ) Paekdusan Feel the full force of Cold War tensions during a visit to Panmunjom ( p373 ) in Mt Chilbo the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), where an uneasy armistice holds Visit Pyongyang between August and Oc- tober to see the incredible Mass Games ( p359), a gymnastic spectacle featuring thousands of athletes and dancers in Pyongyang perfect formation Explore the remote far north and Korea’s highest peak and holy mountain Panmunjom Paekdusan (p376 ) Enjoy pristine mountain walks and some lovely beaches along the coast in and around Mt Chilbo ( p378 ) lonelyplanet.com NORTH KOREA •• Getting Started 349 NORTH KOREA 0 100 km NORTH KOREA 0 60 miles Onsong RUSSIA Saebyol Undok Hoeryong Sonbong To Shenyang (20km); Musan Rajin To Beijing (500km); Vladivostok Puryong Rajin- HAMGYONGBUK-DO Sonbong Fushun C H I N A Paekdusan (2744m) Chongjin Samjiyon Ranam Kyongsong Chunggang RYANGGANG-DO Orang Chasong Huchang Hwapyong Hyesan CHAGANG-DO Manpo Kapsan Mt Chilbo Kanggye Kilju (1103m) Wiwon Pungson Chosan Kimchaek NORTH KOREA Pyokdong Changjin Tanchon Sakchu HAMGYONGNAM-DO Iiwon Pukchong Seoho PYONGANBUK-DO Dandong Uiju Nuichon Shinheung Shinpo Sinbukchong Hyangsan Myohyangsan Sinuiju Kusong (1909m) Hongwon Ryongchon Hamhung Sonchon Chongpyong Hungnam Pakchon Tokchon Kaechon Chongju Maengsan PYONGANNAM-DO Kumya Suncheon Kowon E A S T S E A Mundok Yangdok ( S e a o f J a p a n ) Songchon Wonsan Pyongyang Kangdong Tongchon Chunghwa KANGWON-DO Onjong-ri Songnim Shinpyong Nampo Hoeyang Kosong Hwangju Kumgangsan HWANGHAEBUK-DO Ichon (1639m) Sariwon Pyonggang Kumgang Kuwolsan Sohung Sinchon Kimhwa Hwajinpo Chorwon Ganseong HWANGHAENAM-DO Geumhwa Changyon Tongsong DMZ Kumchon Sincheorwon Suyangsan Pakyon Paroho Yangyang Ryongyon Haeju Falls DMZ Janggok Ongjin Kaesong Panmunjom Yonan Soyangho Kumchon SOUTH KOREA Ganghwado SEOUL Getting Started in North Korea carefully, as itineraries can You need do nothing special to get a visa be hard (if not always impossible) to change save pay through the nose for a guided tour. once there. Days are long in North Korean North Korea is not dangerous and for travel- tourism – you’ll see a surprising amount in lers it’s very comfortable. By law though, two just a four-day tour, and possibly be burned guides must accompany you everywhere you out on a full-week of resolutely revolutionary go outside your hotel and they will control sightseeing. what you see and the spiel you hear while see- ing it. Itineraries are always provisional and When to Go some things are usually cancelled at the last The best time to plan a trip is during the Mass moment for no discernable reason, although Games ( mid-August until mid-October most something else will always be substituted in years) or during a national holiday when you’ll its place. see mass dances or even big parades, which No matter where you’re from or what you make for a uniquely North Korean experience. want to see, you’ll need to book via a travel In general, the most pleasant months for a visit agency (see p350 ). Consider your itinerary are April, May, June, September and October. and the amount of time you’d like to spend July and August are often unpleasantly humid .