Universidade do Minho Escola de Engenharia Beylem Cansu Gursoy Fashion and Art: The Influence of Art on Fashion and the Coexisting Relationship in the 20th Century Western Culture Fashion and Art:Fashion and the The Influence of Art on Fashion in the Relationship 20thCoexisting Century Culture Western Beylem Cansu Gursoy Junho de 2012 UMinho | 2012 Universidade do Minho Escola de Engenharia Beylem Cansu Gursoy Fashion and Art: The Influence of Art on Fashion and the Coexisting Relationship in the 20th Century Western Culture Tese de Mestrado Design and Marketing de Moda Trabalho efectuado sob a orientação da Professora Doutora Maria da Graça Pinto Ribeiro Guedes e co-orientação da Professora Doutora Maria Estela de Sousa Pinto Vieira Junho de 2012 Greetings First of all, I would like to thank my supervisor Professor Maria da Graça Pinto Ribeiro Guedes for her collaboration, availability, infinite support and for her interest in my project. She has been the most influential person during my study and kept me focused with her support. I would also like to express my greetings to my co-supervisor, Professor Estela Pinto Vieira for sharing her knowledge with me and providing ideas during creation of my dissertation as well as Rosa Maria Vasconcelos for giving a head start to my project and for her beneficial information and suggestions on how to create a proper dissertation. I would like to thank and state my appreciation for Universidade do Minho Textile Engineering Department for helping me to achieve my passion (studying fashion) in academic terms and Library of Universidade do Minho for the access of sources and providing suitable area for studying. Lastly, I would like to express my contentment for the support of my mother, father and brother regardless of the distance and keeping me motivated for my studies. Without their constant positivism and comfort I wouldn’t be able to endure this time period. I appreciate everything they have done for me so far. Also, I would like to convey the support of my friends for keep my energy up and motivating me and sharing their opinions during my studies. Table of Contents Greetings.....................................................................................................................................iii Abstract.....................................................................................................................................viii Resumo.......................................................................................................................................ix Keywords.....................................................................................................................................xi Palavras-Chave............................................................................................................................xi Chapter 1- Motivation and Objectives.........................................................................................1 1.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………………................…………1 1.2Objectives………………………………………………………………………………………………………................…..1 1.3 Methodology and Structure……………………………………………………………………….................……..2 Chapter 2- Fashion is an Art or Not…………………………………………………………………………....…………..3 2.1 State of Art…………………………………………………………………………………………………................……..3 2.2 Art and Fashion Discussion……………………….……………………………………………………..................11 2.3 Term investigation: “Art” and “Aesthetics”…………………………………………………………………….15 2.4 Aesthetics………………………………………………………………………………………………….......................18 2.4 Worth, Poiret and Haute Couture in Paris…………………………………………………….................…23 Chapter 3- Art Movements and Fashion………………………………………………………………...…………….31 3.1 Surrealism and Fashion………………………………………………………………………………................……31 3.2 Cecil Beaton and Fashion Photography: Interactions with Art……………………................…...35 3.3 Cubism, Pop-art and Yves Saint Laurent……………………………………………………................……..38 3.4 Sonia Delaunay: As an Artist, as a designer……………………………………………………..................44 Chapter 4- Fashion and Art Relationship- Case Studies…………………………….…………………..........48 4.1 Sanda Miller’s article- Is Fashion Art? .................................................................................48 4.2. “Fashion” in Contemporary Culture…………………………………………………….........................….54 4.2.1Melissa Taylor’s Culture Transition: Fashion's Cultural Dialogue between Commerce and Art…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….………….54 4.2.2 Fashion Contemporaries: Alexander McQueen and John Galliano……………………………….58 iv Chapter 5- Conclusions……………………………………………………………………………………….........………...67 5.1 Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………………………………......................67 5.2 Future Work…………………………………………………………………………………………..……....................69 Plates……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………70 References ………………………………………………………………………………............................................105 Footnote Websites and Further Readings...............................................................................110 Annexes...................................................................................................................................111 Fashion as Art; is Fashion Art? by Sanda Miller……………………………………………………………………111 Culture Transition:n Fashion’s Cultural Dialogue between Commerce and Art by Melissa Taylor.......................................................................................................................................125 v Table of Plates Plate 1- Charles Frederick Worth Evening Dress...................................................................................70 Plate 2- House of Worth Evening Dress.................................................................................................71 Plate 3- House of Paquin Dress, Ball Gown...........................................................................................72 Plate 4- House of Paquin Evening Dress................................................................................................73 Plate 5- Paul Poiret Fancy Dress............................................................................................................74 Plate 6- Paul Poiret Ensemble................................................................................................................75 Plate 7- Elsa Schiaparelli Button............................................................................................................76 Plate 8- Elsa Schiaparelli Button............................................................................................................76 Plate 9- Elsa Schiaparelli Evening Gloves...............................................................................................77 Plate 10- Elsa SchiaparelliGloves..........................................................................................................77 Plate 11-Elsa Schiaparelli Evening Dress...............................................................................................78 Plate 12- Shocking de Schiaparelli Perfume..........................................................................................79 Plate 13- Elsa Schiaparelli& Salvador Dali Shoe Hat.............................................................................79 Plate 14- Elsa Schiaparelli Tears Dress...................................................................................................80 Plate 15- . Elsa Schiaparelli Jacket.........................................................................................................80 Plate 16- Elsa Schiaparelli Bow-knot Sweater.......................................................................................81 Plate 17- Irene and Sophie....................................................................................................................81 Plate 18- Irene and Sophie....................................................................................................................82 Plate 19- Yves Saint Laurent Tuxedo.....................................................................................................83 Plate 20- Yves Saint Laurent Coat..........................................................................................................83 Plate 21- Yves Saint LaurentMondrian Dress........................................................................................84 Plate 22- Piet MondrianBroadway Boogie Woogie..............................................................................84 Plate 23- Yves Saint Laurent Short Evening Dress.................................................................................85 Plate 24- Yves Saint Laurent Short Cocktail Dress.................................................................................86 Plate 25- Yves Saint Laurent Long Evening Dress..................................................................................86 Plate 26- Yves Saint Laurent, Long Evening Dress.................................................................................87 vi Plate 27- A Shot of Marilyn Monroe by Andy Warhol...........................................................................87 Plate 28- The Souper Dress....................................................................................................................88 Plate 29- Sonia Delaunay-Terk Simultaneous Dresses..........................................................................89 Plate 30- Sonia Delaunay