460 THE AMERICAN AL.PlNE JOURNAL August 23 Cormack and I climbed a peak of 17,800 feet on the ridge immediately south of the pass. On the following day we were all reunited at Base Camp and promptly stormbound for a week. Metcalfe, Peck and I then recrossed the frontier ridge and on September 3 from the old camp climbed a peak of 17,300 feet on the ridge to the north of the pass. TWO days later Metcalfe and I climbed Kakhari ( 19,262 feet), still farther north, from the 17,000-foot co1 mentioned previously. Generally we enjoyed good weather but firm snow was rare and the rock shattered and loose. Still unclimbed are 1) Haranbit (19,675 feet), 2) P 19,072, inaccurately shown on the Survey of India map, 3) P 18,454 at the head of the Manali Glacier, 4) twin peaks both well over 18,000 feet on the frontier ridge south of No. 3. The first two would probably be best approached up the Thalo Glacier. The last two and possibly No. 3 might be gained from the glacier on the Swat side of the ridge. Neither Manali Go1 nor the Manali Glacier can be recommended as approaches, though No. 3 would almost certainly prove easiest from that direction. ROBERT COLLISTER, Cambridge University Motintaineerilzg Club Fakak Sar. Wolfgang Stefan, J. Griffiths and two Germans climbed Falak Sar, a third ascent, and the lower of the Batin Peaks (c. 18,700 feet). A note by Dr. Adolf Diembwger. Much of this information is as yet unconfirmed. A detailed account will be published in the summer of 1969 in the dsteneichische Alpenzeitmg. Pakistan or Afghan Frontier- Hindu Kush Lisnkho Grozc?, Khamht Valley, Wakhan. An expedition of the Vienna Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (i5AV) was led by Dr. Fritz Grimmlinger and composed of Gerhard Haberl, Christian von der Hecken, Fritz Hintermayer, Edi Koblmiiller, Gernot Kolmhofer and Gerd Pressl. They ‘combined to a great extent with a Yugoslav expedition consisting of Draslar, Kunauer, Satonov, Stane and Stupnik. On August 5 Austrians Grimmlinger, Haberl and Koblmiiller and Yugoslavs Stupnik and Draslar made the first ascent of Lunkho-i-Dosare (22,645 feet) both east and west peaks. On August 9 all Austrians and Yugoslavs made the second ascent of Kohe Myani (18,477 feet; peak 350 on the Wala map). Haberl and Koblmiiller climbed P 6450 (21,162 feet; Wala 321) on August 10. The second ascent of Lunkho-i-Hawar (22,621 feet) was made on August 13 by Austrians Grimmlinger, Pressl, Hecken and Hintermayer and Yugoslavs Sazonov and Stane and the third the next CLJMBS AND EXPEDlTlONS day by Haberl and Koblmiiller. Grimmlinger and Pressl climbed P 6390 (20,965 feet; Wala 354) on August 18. The first ascent of P 6430 (21,096 feet; Wala 353/2) was made on August 19 by Kolmhofer and Hintermayer and repeated on successive days by Grimmlinger and Press1 and Koblmiiller solo. (Is this peak now named “Meena?” The old Meena is now named Kohe Dusti on the Wala map.) The second ascent of Kohe Hevad (22,470 feet) was made by the Yugoslavs and repeated on August 20 by Grimmlinger and Press1 and on the 21st by Koblmiiller solo. ADOLF DIEMBERGER, tisteweichischer Alpenkhb Attempt on Lankho. P. V. Brian, D. B. Martin, R A. P. Mellor, R. A. North and I as leader climbed in the Ab-i-Ishmurkh valley in the eastern Hindu Kush (36” 45’ to 37” N, 71” 25’ to 71” 35’ E). We arrived in Kabul on July 12 hoping to visit the central Hindu Kush. To our delight, after a week of negotiation, the Afghan government allowed US to enter this legendary but politically restricted area of the eastern Hindu Kush. We were allowed to try Lunkho, the highest unclimbed peak in the range. However a Yugoslav and an Austrian party were to be in the adjacent valley. After a difficult three-day drive we arrived at the foot of our valley, where we employed 20 porters for two days to raise our equipment to the snout of the glacier, the Yakchal-i-Ishmurkh. We retained two men to help us establish Advance Base in early August at 14,850 feet on the eastern flank of the glacier near the Czech site of 1965 (A.A.J., 1966, 15: 1, pp. 206-7.) The head of the valley was dosed by the great wall of the main chain, behind which lay Pakistan. It stretched in our view between P 6845 meters or Little Lunkho and Lunkho (22,645 feet), our peak. From Advance Base we crossed to the south and then, turning west, climbed an icefall to a high glacier tucked between the frontier ridge and the shapely north ridge of the mountain. This ridge divided our valley from the neighbouring Ab-i-Khandut, where the Austrians and Yugoslavs had installed themselves. Camp I was established on this glacier at 15,700 feet. The north ridge was gained by a dangerous couloir above the camp. We followed the rocky crest to its lowest point, a small co1 at 17,550 feet. Above this lay several rounded crests before the ridge broadened to abut against the crest of the frontier ridge slightly west of the summit. Because of bad weather, it took five attempts at this route before our high point was gained. The retreat from the third try was made into the Ab-i-Khandut, where we met our Yugoslav friends, 462 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL who informed us that the Austrians some days before had attained the summit. Yet, the line we were following was beautiful, and to climb it would be sufficient reward. Before the fourth retreat we had established a snow ‘cave above all the major technical difficulties, at 19,500 feet. September 2 saw North and me again in the cave. We left it at 2:45 on the 3rd. This was to be our final bid. We immediately encountered very bad snow conditions, which made progress slow, tedious and exhausting. However, some 12 hours later, we stepped onto the sharp crest of the frontier ridge and stood with one foot in Afghanistan and one in Pakistan. The route, at least, had been completed. By this time North’s numbed feet were giving cause for concern; we wished to return as soon as possible. Therefore we selected a high point on the ridge 100 to 200 feet lower and perhaps a quarter mile from the true summit climbed by the Austrians. The poor snow conditions did not hinder the descent and we were back at the cave in 11/z hours. We arrived at Base two days later after a painful descent for North, who had seriously been frostbitten in the left foot. He has since lost the toes of this foot. Attempts were made on Koh-i-Mina (c. 21,000 feet) and Koh-i-Qala Panja (20,760 feet). Mellor and Tancred climbed Andaval or P 5712 ( 18,740 feet), which is the middle of the three peaks that lie between Kohe-James and the north and Kohe-Tirma. IAN G. ROWE, Corriemiclzie Motlntaineering Club (Scotland) Shohgologh Zom, Ltinkho Group. Takao Nagamine, Tetsuo Shimada and I left Tokyo on July 21 and arrived in Chitral on the 24th, where we began the journey with 450 pounds of gear on four donkeys. We got to the last village, Phurgram, in the Rich Go1 on August 1. The next day we came to the point the porters called Moghalang, where streams from the Noroghik and Anosha glaciers pour into the Rich Gol. We chose the left-hand glacier, the Noroghik and on the 3rd set up Base Camp on the moraine at 12,000 feet. The Phurgram porters were afraid of walking on the ice and so we had to carry our gear up the first icefall to set up Camp I at 13,000 feet. On the 6th we found the safest place we could above the second icefall for Camp II at 14,100 feet. This com- manded a view of the upper part of the glacier and of many 6OOOers and 5000ers. The upper part of Lunkho was seen high and great. Aiming at the saddle between two peaks on the ridge running south from Lunkho, we crossed the wide snow plateau and set up Camp III at 15,400 feet. Availing ourselves of the small glacier falling from the saddle, we struggled CLlMBS AND EXPEDlTlONS 463 to place Camp IV at 17,700 feet on August 9. Too exhausted from the altitude to try another 1000 meters of ascent, we gave up P 6442. On August 11 Shimada and I (Nagamine could not even get to his feet that day) followed the ridge south from the saddle and finally got to the steep rock peak towering between the Noroghik and Shohgologh glaciers. It was about 6000 meters or 19,685 feet. We should like to call it Shohgologh Zom. (This is the peak which lies between peaks 336 and 334 on the Wala map.-Editor.) We got back to Base Camp on the 14th and Chitral on August 22. TORU YOSHITOMI, Alp&e Chb of Tokyo University of Education Peaks above Chhtltid~m Glacier. Michael H. Westmacott, his wife Sally, Dr. H. R. Thomlinson and I placed our Base Camp at the junction of the Kotgaz and Chhutidum glaciers on July 31. We had hoped to climb Lunkho West but from a reconnaissance camp at 15,000 feet on the upper Chhutidum we judged that the only feasible route was too dangerous.