Poland in Autumn Naturetrek Tour Report 8 - 16 September 2018 European Bison Red Fox Black Redstart at ringing station Wild Boar- a Beatles fan! Report compiled by Rob Murray Photographs by Peter Seddon Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Poland in Autumn Tour participants: Rob Murray (leader), Oliwier Myka (Local guide), Wacek (Bus driver) With 16 Naturetrek clients Summary This tour aimed to explore the natural history of three ecologically different regions of Poland. We started in the primeval forests of Białoweiza where perseverance ensured that six species of woodpecker, a Pygmy Owl and the elusive European Bison were enjoyed by all. The extensive wetlands and meadows of the Biebrza National Park were drier than usual after a protracted period with no rain. However, small flocks of trumpeting Common Cranes and over-flying raptors were conspicuous here. Greater Spotted, Lesser Spotted and White-tailed Eagles graced the skies. On the way to the third region, the sandy Baltic shores of the north coast of Poland, a lakeside stop at last yielded an Elk. Shorebirds, migrating finches, raptors and Wild Boar were the main attractions here. We visited an active bird ringing station where we watched the processing of Bearded Tit, Black Redstart and Reed Warblers. Visits to the ‘wooden’ village of Ploski and the delightful city of Gdańsk, famed for its architecture, added an element of culture to the mix and we were served prodigious feasts of typical Polish food and drink in all three hotels. Day 1 Saturday 8th September Our flight from Heathrow to Warsaw touched down ten minutes early and as there were no delays with baggage we were soon out onto the concourse ready to greet those members of the group who had arrived independently. Oliwier arrived on time so we made a smooth getaway for eastern Poland. The opening of a new ring road cut 30 minutes off our travelling time and there was no traffic congestion. Taking a set lunch at the Kamiza hotel gave us a welcome break as did a garage stop a little later. We arrived at the Unikat Hotel in Białowieża at 4.45pm and had a freshen up before having our meal early so that we could take advantage of a beautiful evening to go Pygmy Owl hunting. There wasn’t a breath of wind to disturb the silence of the forest as dusk intensified and we strained our ears for the piping call of our quarry. Suddenly blood curdling, horrifying, deep and resonant bellows roared from the Wild Wood sounding like we imagine a rapacious dinosaur would. It was loud! Then replies of equal ferocity emanated from other quarters of the forest - Red Deer were rutting. We saw a splendid stag and a wary hind on the old railway track. It is always exciting to see evidence that large beasts have passed the very spot upon which you are standing, and seeing the huge prints of an Elk on the trail alongside Red Deer tracks provided that tingle. Knowing that something exciting could be round the next bend is one of the features that makes this trip so attractive. Peering intently forwards, scrutinising the illuminated road ahead, produced only moths and a couple of frogs but who knows what might have crossed the road seconds before or after our passage! Day 2 Sunday 9th September The day began with the sighting of two Black Redstarts and a Chiffchaff in the hotel grounds, while Red Admirals were attracted to rotting apples in the adjacent orchard. We spent this morning dipping into various regions of the forest in the vicinity of Białoweiza. The first of these was close to the village of Budy on the © Naturetrek October 18 1 Poland in Autumn Tour Report Narewka road where we parked by a monument to the villagers who were sent to Siberia during the last war. After a short walk we entered a broad clearing of swamp and dead trees which is home to beavers, and although we found their lodge, unsurprisingly we didn’t see the occupants. We encountered Lesser and Great Spotted Woodpeckers here with little difficulty, Nuthatches were very active too and two Sparrowhawks flew across the clearing. We returned to the bus then relocated to Czerlonka via a disused rail track. The most difficult woodpecker to see on this trip is the Green Woodpecker so we were delighted when one flew across the road in front of the bus. Deeper into the forest we enjoyed excellent views of a Three-toed Woodpecker and heard the high pitched calls of some Hazel Grouse, but we couldn’t see them. A splendid Wasp Spider held our attention for a while and it caught a Long-winged Conehead in its vertical web. By 12.30pm we were back at the hotel enjoying lunch. The afternoon was spent mainly walking along the Zebra Zubra trail of board walk and raised shingle embankment running for 2.7km where we secured excellent views of a Nutcracker calling out in the open from the top of a dead tree. White-backed Woodpeckers were also easily located amongst the dense trees. Siskin could be heard calling but remained stubbornly out of sight and five Hawfinches perched aloft in a dead, exposed tree. After dipping in to explore part of another trail we returned to base in plenty of time to freshen up before an early evening meal. Having failed to connect with Pygmy Owl last night we resolved to have another session tonight. As we drove out of Białoweiza, Oliwier noticed the unmistakable silhouette of a perched Lesser Spotted Eagle. We bundled out of the coach and had good views of it in a tree, in flight and on the ground. The spot selected for our owl quest is known as The Royal Oaks, where a circular boardwalk from the car park winds through a forest. A Pygmy Owl began calling and was soon located, and although it flew around quite a lot, changing perches frequently, everyone saw it which was most pleasing. We paused at the edge of the wood to listen to emerging nocturnal creatures. A Tawny Owl hooted and Red Deer stags bellowed and roared in the distance. Pausing again further along the road produced the same outcome. However, an evil, thick mist was developing over the marshy meadow and swirling in like a menacing tide. Once mentioned by one person it appeared that thoughts of the horror movie ‘The Fog’ permeated several minds simultaneously and we departed hastily for the sanctuary of the awaiting coach before evil sprites and apparitions materialised from the gloaming. Day 3 Monday 10th September There had been overnight rain the remnants of which were fading away as we assembled for a 6am wander to the meadows situated behind the hotel. As we surmounted the slope and peered ahead across the meadows towards the woods it was clear that our luck was in. There ahead stood 18 Bison grazing contentedly at the interface of field and forest. We were only just in time as they were edging closer and closer to the all-enveloping woodland. Within minutes they had been absorbed and disappeared from view. However, everyone had good but distant views of these beasts of the forest. A few Tree Pipits flew over calling and Ravens were on view too. As there was still an hour before breakfast we opted to walk a circuit of the Palace Park, but it was very quiet and nothing noteworthy appeared. The tower hide just at the edge of the village overlooks a marsh through which the Narewka River flows. A Tree Sparrow called persistently as we scaled the wooden staircase. Looking out we noticed a juvenile Red-backed Shrike perched on a dead tree, while a Snipe was alarmed by something unseen and towered away over the trees. 2 © Naturetrek October 18 Poland in Autumn Tour Report We then sauntered back for breakfast. At 9am we were ready to enter the Strict Reserve accompanied by Arek, the most experienced and characterful of the forest rangers, who explained the ecological complexities of this wonderful woodland ecosystem in a delivery overflowing with facts and figures as we ambled along the permitted trails. A plethora of fungi attracted our attention. Huge growths of Tinder Fungus, Red-rimmed Polyphore, Chicken of the Woods and the exquisite Coral fungus were the most dramatic ones. The more familiar Parasols, Stinkhorn and Honey fungus added to the wonderful array of growth forms of these harbingers of rot and decay. As we gathered to hear Arek recounting the history of the reserve, Bank Voles scurried back and forth through the under growth momentarily distracting us from his enthralling discourse. We all enjoyed the aesthetically pleasing physical structures of the forest, with towering, ancient oak trees dwarfing the fine specimens of Lime and Hornbeam. Sunlight danced between the boughs creating dappled patches on the rich herb layer and although none showed itself, evidence of mammals lay all around us. The eyes of our experienced tracker noted the following: a urinary latrine of a wolf; a Badger sett shared with Red Fox and Raccoon Dog; a wasp’s nest excavated by to the fervent digging of a determined badger and tracks of Red Deer. We saw a store of Hornbeam seeds wedged into crevices of the trunk for later attention from a Nuthatch, while split seeds lying on the ground were the work of Hawfinches. We were so engrossed in all of this that none of us realised that three fascinating hours had passed by since we passed through the Jurassic Park gates into this bewitching wilderness.