Sewing on Today’s Fabrics E Bonded and Laminated Fabrics Definitions: 0 Bonded Fabrics—fabrics formed by sealing together two previously constructed fabrics. 0 Laminated Fabrics—fabrics formed by backing them with polyurethane foam. Fabric Selection and Preparation: 0 Check grain. Off grain fabrics can never be returned to grain perfection. '0 Bonded fabrics may separate when drycleaned. Check labels to see if manufacturer guarantees the bond. - Preshrink bonded fabric, if necessary. Pattern Selection: Simple designs are best. Avoid intricate seams and details. 0 Easing is not possible on laminates. Raglan, kim-ona or sleeveless styles are best. Set-in sleeves may be used for soft and pliable "bonded fabrics if sleeve pattern has small amount of ease in the cap. - Darts, instead of gathers, are best in bonded fabrics that are fairly stiff. Laying Pattern and Cutting: Steam fabric to remove wrinkles. 0 Lay pattern pieces on right side of fabric. Follow grainline of right side of fabric, if possible. Often half the fabric is on true grain; the other half is finished off grain. If possible, cut garment and facing in one to eliminate this seam. 0 When cutting laminated fabric, it is often necessary to cut only one thickness at a time. Marking: 0 Tailor’s tacks are usually best. Tracing wheel and carbon may be used if it will mark and if it will not damage fabric. Test carbon method before using. Thread and Needle Selection: i 0 If lightweight fabric, use size 9 or 11 sewing machine needle. If heavyweight fabric, use size 14 machine needle. 0 Mercerized cotton thread is suitable in most cases. Sewing Tips: V ( i ' ° Staystitch around all curved'and bias seams. 0 Make test seams to determine necessary sewing machine adjustments. 0 Check stitch length—medium to long, depending on weight of fabric, tension and pressure. 0 No seam finish is required since fabrics do not ravel. ’ ° Understitch facings for a sharper edge. 0 Top-stitching of edges is excellent on both bonded and laminated fabrics. 0 Machine or bound buttonholes are desirable. Reinforce with interfacing before making. 0 A tailor’s or dressmaker’s hem is suitable. Stitch 14 inch from raw edge of hem; then do hem- ming stitch along this line. Take hemming stitches in backing only on bonded fabrics so hem will be inconspicuous from right sides. 0 If seam allowance rolls, tack edge loosely'to backing of fabric. Special Sewing Tips for Laminated Fabrics: ° Use all suggestions under Sewing Tips. 0 Laminated fabrics do not move, readily under the presser foot. There are three ways to elimi- 3:32".fr‘L_-‘:r:..=fr";hen-Ami“_z_.‘-''‘-..,-.«v3."v“at.'‘;v,w.1.g nate this problem: ( 1) Place paper between fabric and presser foot and stitch. Tear paper away after stitching. (2) Stitch 1-inch strip of lawn or batiste over the seamline. Trim strip to 14 inch. (3) Completely underline the garment. r askimm‘agg__. __'zV“-,'.-:1-,f).;3»...2“?«F.-VJ..-5.A To make a flatter seam where needed, peel off backing along seam allowance. Remove backing after seam has been stitched. Flat fell o-r welt seams may be used successfully. Remove excessive bulk by layering both the backing and the face fabrics before making seam. Slash and press open darts in heavyweight laminated fabrics. To remove excessive bulk, re- move backing fabric after stitching darts. Interfacing at hemline cushions hem and prevents it from showing on outside. Cut interfac- ing 14 inch wider than width of hem and in length required fer sleeve or bottom edge of garment. Place inside hem and stitch along laminated edge with interfac- ing extending 1/4 inch. Turn up hem and catch-stitch interfacing to laminate, being sure to sew through outside fabric. Foam will not hold stitches. Braid may be used as a decorative finish on an edge to eliminate THIS NOT THIS bulk. Interfacings and Linings: Interface necklines, collars, cuffs and front openings. Linings or underlinings are often needed even though the fabric is backed. This helps prevent stretching of some bonded fabrics and also helps prevent seeing through some thin fabrics. Pressing : Use press cloth to protect fabric or backing. Use iron setting suitable for outer fabric. Use brown paper under seam allowance and darts to prevent impressions on right side of fabric. Laminated fabricsshould be pressed from the right side only. Care : Check labels to see if fabric is washable or drycleanable. There are two solutions used to dryclean clothing. Separation of outer fabric from bonded fabric may occur when garment is drycleaned. The National Institute of Drycleaning has found that the Soddard solvent is less harmful to bonded fabrics than is the perchor-ethylene solvent. Other Publications in Sewing on Today’s Fabrics Series: Woven Fabrics of Man-made Fibers Diagonals, Plaids and Checks Double Knit Fabrics Fake Fur, Deep Pile and Pile Fabrics Stretch and Vinyl Fabrics Double Cloth Prepared by: Ruby T. Miller Dorothy L. Barrier Extension Clothing Specialists Published by THE NORTH CAROLINA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE North Carolina State University at Raleigh and the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperating. State College Station Raleigh, N. C., George Hyatt, Jr., Director. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, l9l4. 5-68—5M Home Economics 87.