Across the Antarctic Circle 4 – 15 February 2020 | Greg Mortimer About Us Aurora Expeditions embodies the spirit of adventure, travelling to some of the most wild opportunity for adventure and discovery. Our highly experienced expedition team of and remote places on our planet. With over 28 years’ experience, our small group voyages naturalists, historians and destination specialists are passionate and knowledgeable – they allow for a truly intimate experience with nature. are the secret to a fulfilling and successful voyage. Our expeditions push the boundaries with flexible and innovative itineraries, exciting Whilst we are dedicated to providing a ‘trip of a lifetime’, we are also deeply committed to wildlife experiences and fascinating lectures. You’ll share your adventure with a group education and preservation of the environment. Our aim is to travel respectfully, creating of like-minded souls in a relaxed, casual atmosphere while making the most of every lifelong ambassadors for the protection of our destinations. DAY 1 | Tuesday 4 February 2020 Ushuaia Position: 20:22 hours Course: 290.6° Wind Speed: 19 knots Barometer: 756 MB & steady Latitude: 54°48.00’ S Speed: At Anchor Wind Direction: NW Air Temp: 15° C Longitude: 068°18.03’ W Sea Temp: 214 C Dare to live the life you have dreamed for yourself. Go forward and make your We learned of some unexpected news: that we would have a bonus day in Ushuaia as dreams come true. — Ralph Waldo Emerson we awaited additional fortifications to our hull from minor damage incurred earlier ni the season. While it came as a bit of surprise, this is a mark of true expedition and adventure. After months of preparation, weeks of anticipation and long-haul flights from around the Flexibility, and being able to adapt to situations as they come will be a theme of our voyage globe, we finally arrived at Ushuaia, known locally as el fin del mundo (the end of the world), ahead - as Mother Nature and King Neptune call the shots in Antarctica. ready and raring to begin our Antarctic adventure. At 1930 we headed to the Restaurant on Deck 5 to enjoy a delicious first dinner, complete Following a brilliant tour of this bustling town; including stops at the Old Prison and with panoramic views of the Beagle Channel shadowed by the mountain ranges of Tierra Maritime Museum, we loaded onto buses headed for Ushuaia Port, and pulled alongside del Fuego. the Greg Mortimer waiting patiently for our arrival. Meeting new friends already, the dining rooms buzzed with excited conversation. After We smiled for the cameras, before heading on-board to meet our Expedition Team, Hotel dinner, we wandered the ship and then nestled down into our new home away from home Team and to become acquainted with our staterooms. Half unpacked and slightly settled for the next ten days. in, it was time to meet our fellow adventurers down at the Elephant Island Bar for afternoon tea, while others headed to the outer decks to start exploring our home for the next few weeks. We returned to the Lecture Theatre when Expedition Leader Liz called us together. Liz gave us a warm welcome and introduced us to our friendly expedition team. DAY 2 | Wednesday 5 February 2020 Fagnano and Escondido Lakes, Beagle Channel Position: 08:22 hours Wind Speed: 12 knots Barometer: 1016 MB & steady Air Temp: 12° C Latitude: 54°48.00’ S Wind Direction: NW Sea Temp: 7° C Longitude: 68°18.03’ W Our ability to perceive quality in nature begins, as in art, with the pretty. It After driving a bit further, we made another pit stop to get out and walk along the shoreline expands through successive stages of the beautiful to values as yet uncaptured of the lake while birdwatching with Chris, Jared and our local guide. As we climbed 450 by language. —Aldo Leopold, A Sand County Almanac vertical meters along the highway, we got beautiful birds’ eye views of Fagnano, as well as another lake called the “hidden lake” or Lake Escondido. We had a great view of it before Today we woke up to a delicious breakfast buffet complete with lots of coffee to start off rain started falling on us. As they say here in Tierra del Fuego, if you don’t like the weather – our day! The weather looked promising, as the sun was shining brightly outside. However, just wait 15 minutes. The sun was soon out again! Our last stop was at the “Villa Las Cotorras” one step outside and it was off to get warmer jackets as the winds were really blowing! where we had a delicious traditional Argentinian lunch of lamb, potatoes and wine. An While waiting for the ship to get the “all-clear” to head down to Antarctica later this evening, Argentinian native, dressed in traditional clothes, serenaded us while we ate. After lunch, about 100 of us opted to go on an excursion further inland, while the rest chose to spend some opted to visit the Siberian Husky “park,” home to over 100 dogs, eager for attention some time in the city of Ushuaia or rest on the ship to get over jetlag. For those who opted and affection. to go on the excursion, we were picked up around 9 AM and enjoyed a scenic drive along the famous Ruta 3 highway which connects the “end of the world” with Buenos Aires, some After arriving back on the ship later in the afternoon, we took some time to clean up, rest 3000 kilometers in length. and watch as the ship set off from the harbour. Then, we were officially welcomed to the ship by the Captain and his crew on the 5th floor, followed shortly thereafter by a delectable Along the way, we stopped at the very windy Fagnano lake, which is one of the largest in dinner. In just a few short 33 hours, we’ll have crossed the Drake Passage and will be in South America. An interesting fact? In the middle of the lake, under all that water, lies a fault Antarctic waters. called the Magellan. The fault separates the South American and Scotia tectonic plates, the latter of which we’ll be sailing over later today, making this an active tectonic area. Given how chilly it was here, we were happy to have some treats and hot drinks at the “Camping Hain” grounds. It is quite an eccentric campground filled with teepees for guests and yard junk turned into sculptures – like helicopters, tractors, and “trees” made of empty wine and beer bottles. DAY 3 | Thursday 6 February 2020 Drake Passage Position: 07:00 hours Course: 170.6° Wind Speed: 18 knots Barometer: 1025 MB & steady Latitude: 56°55.00’ S Speed: 14.4 knots Wind Direction: W Air Temp: 5°C Longitude: 65°44.03’ W Sea Temp: 12°C The Antarctic Convergence is perhaps the longest and most important After lunch some newer staff to the ship had a safety brief and tour, they even chilled in a biological barrier on earth, as formidable as any mountain range or desert. lifeboat that fits 135 people; cosy. That will be the only time we go in it, hopefully. It is an obstacle to the dispersion of birds, fish, and, most important, plankton. Another presentation after lunch by Christian on the important subject of Biosecurity while — David G. Campbell, The Crystal Desert, 1992 the swell outside began to get a bit bigger and some of us began to feel the effects. We were gently lulled to sleep last night by the reasonably small Drake passage swells. A After the information everyone departed to the gear vacuum and boot fitting stations. Our peaceful night. gear has never been cleaner! This morning, still cruising along we were sharing the crossing with some wandering Chris T. & Ulyana spoke to a crowd encouraging them to be involved with the scientific albatross and the occasional Giant petrel & a Wilson’s storm petrel. information gathering, sightings and recording. We can all be scientists! After another fine breakfast we all had a very informative presentation aboutvisiting As we await another delicious meal tonight we have made it past the 60 degree parallel: Antarctica, and some fun facts from Liz P. Krill is very cool. political Antarctica Zone at around 7:30pm. John (The Dude) Richardson (with his wealth of knowledge and hands on experience) gave Icebergs tomorrow!! Here we come. a lecture on the history of first contacts with Antarctica and expeditions to the Peninsula. Brave explorers. DAY 4 | Friday 7 February 2020 Drake Passage, Danco Island Position: 06:30 hours Wind Speed: 25 knots Barometer: 1018 MB & steady Air Temp: -1°C Latitude: 62°32.00’ S Wind Direction: SW Sea Temp: 2°C Longitude: 63°38.03’ W A first walk in any new country is one of the things which makes life It truly feels like a dream when seeing the snow covered, fairytale-looking mountains on this planet worth being grateful for. — Charles William Beebe getting closer and closer. We are now in whale rich waters and have therefore decreased Greg Mortimer´s speed to a maximum of 10 knots. And there she blows, a humpback whale! Out on the Drake, surrounded by waves and an endless horizon, we wake up to the intensely Many of them!! smiling sun. Knowing today is the day we will reach the Antarctic Peninsula, it is hard not to After an early buffet dinner it is so time for our first landing. We all feel very excited when feel overwhelmingly excited when walking up the stairs to the observation lounge to watch we dress up in all our layers of clothes.