飛 騨 The Hida Guide 2012―2013 Hida is the northernmost and largest of the five regions of Gifu Prefecture. Situated in the heart of the Japanese Alps, it is an entirely mountainous region, famous for its natural beauty, its skiing, its onsens, and its many traditional handicrafts. The main rivers in Hida are the Miyagawa (宮川), which flows north into the Sea of Japan, and the Hida River (飛騨川) which flows south into the Pacific. Hida’s elevation and mountains shelter it somewhat from the rest of Gifu’s murderous heat and humidity and the summers, and pile on the snow and cold in the winters. The first kanji in Hida, 飛 (ひ), means to fly. The second, 騨 (だ), means a dappled grey horse, although it’s no longer commonly used. The four municipalities that comprise Hida, from south to north, are: 下呂市 げろし Gero City 高山市 たかやまし Takayama City 白川村 しらかわむら Shirakawa Village 飛騨市 ひだし Hida City HIDA’S LOCATION IN GIFU PREFECTURE: Hida is hemmed in on all sides by the Japanese Alps. To get anywhere else in Japan, you’ll need to go over, through and under them. Most of Hida is actually closer to Toyama City, on the coast of the Sea of Japan, than it is to Gifu City or Nagoya. Matsumoto, in Nagano Prefecture is about two hours to the east by car or bus. Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto are all about five hours from Hida by bus. FUN IN HIDA Outdoors In the summer, there are almost infinite places to hike. And when the heat is ridiculous, and the simple act of breathing makes you sweat through the soles of your shoes, take a dive into the cool, clear river at one of several spots deep enough to swim, or jump off the rocks. In the winter, no matter where you live in the Hida area, there’s a ski area within half an hour of you, and five more within an hour. Just about every weekend, someone’s heading up to the slopes, so grab your skis or board, and jump in the car with them. Don’t have a board, skis, and have never seen snow in your life? No problem: equipment rentals and lessons are available at all the mountains. Some recommended ski areas are: Nagareha in Kamioka Honoki in Hirayu Arukopia in Gero Takasu Snow Park & Dinaland in Takasu The ski season runs from mid-December through mid-March, although if you’re a true junkie, the mountains in Nagano and Niigata are bigger than the Hida ski areas, and boast longer seasons. Too far for a day-trip, they’re close enough for a great weekend of skiing. If you prefer exploring towns to tumbling down mountains, Hida offers plenty for you as well: Takayama’s Temple Walk meanders through dozens of temples and several wooded parks on the east side of town. Hida No Sato is an old-style Japanese village situated in the heart of Takayama. For an actual old village, Shirakawa Mura is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and accessible by both car and bus. Every city and town has something to be discovered. So when you’re feeling restless, just wander. It’s a great way to connect with your community. Onsen (Hot Spring Baths) Hida is renowned throughout Japan for its onsen. Gero Onsen is an entire town built where the hot water flowed, and onsen-tourism is still a major part of its economy. Onsen etiquette must be followed, so be prepared to go the Full Monty, shower thoroughly before entering the baths, and under no circumstances dunk your head beneath the surface of the water (unless nobody’s looking). Just a few of the onsens to visit are: Miki no Sato (Maze, Gero) ¥700 (¥500 after 7pm). A huge onsen complex, it will spoil you for other onsens. A creative variety of pools, jets and saunas, this is definitely one you have to see. Annual passes are available. Shimizu no Yu (Hagiwara, Gero) ¥500. This is a small but gorgeous onsen that was recently remodeled for a visit by the Emperor. It’s located off the highway on the drive between Gero and Takayama. Annual passes are available. Gero Rotemburo (Gero) Free. Located in Gero near the bridge in the river. This public onsen is open to anyone, anytime. If you don’t want your students to see you, go late at night. Green Hotel Onsen (Takayama) ¥1000 (but if you feel you’ll go frequently, a book of 16 tickets may be purchased for ¥10,000). Small, but elegant, this onsen is often frequented by Takayama ALTs simply due to its convenient location. There is also a free foot onsen outside the hotel, which is lovely on a cold winter night. Shijuhattachi Onsen (Kokufu, Takayama) ¥500. Located near the base of the 48 Waterfalls hiking trail in Kokufu, this onsen is popular for its newly designed baths and whirlpools. Associa Hotel Onsen (Takayama) Available to the public only in December (or if you eat a meal in the restaurant), this onsen offers gorgeous views of Takayama. Hirayu no Mori (Hirayu, Takayama) ¥500. Quaint onsen with a beautiful backdrop in the heart of the Hida mountains. Festivals Takayama Matsuri In April and October two of Japan’s biggest and most popular shinto festivals occur, with lantern-lit floats meandering through the streets of Takayama, food stalls sizzling, and thousands of Japanese and foreign tourists jamming the streets. Gero Dragon Fire Festival (August 1 – 3) Dragon dancing, fireworks, a music make Gero’s festival one of the most heavily attended, popular festivals in Hida. Takayama Tezutsu Hanabi (August 9, 2012) In August, handheld fireworks are shot out of bamboo cylinders from platforms on the Miyagawa River in downtown Takayama. Get your viewing and photographing spot early, because the banks of the river are jam-packed with people. Maze Fireworks (August 25, 2012) In late August, Maze (―Mah-zay‖), a canyon town in Gero City, puts on its festival with an impressive fireworks display. Get there early in the evening, because there’s only one way into town, and the roads are clogged for miles. Doburoku (October 14 – 19) Shirakawa’s Doburoku festival is an only-in-Japan kind of event. Each of the four temples in town brews their unique brand of bathtub sake, complete with chunks of half-fermented rice, and the townsfolk and visitors gather at each one, on four successive days, where it’s poured freely, and endlessly, into the cups of anyone who attends, leaving the entire town staggering drunk. Santeramairi (January 15, 2013) Santeramairi, in Furukawa, is perhaps the most beautiful of the Hida region’s festivals. Candles made of snow line the streets, and lanterns are floated through the town’s canals, while young women in Kimono pray for love. Asahi Ice Festival (February) A maze in a forest of ice sculptures. Fireworks too. Furukawa Festival (April 19-20) This is the most raucous, and most potentially injurious, of Hida’s festivals. Drunk, half-naked men spin on poles, and mobs of them rush a giant drum, while hoards of others do whatever it takes to keep them from it. Ever been pinned against a building by 200 mostly undressed, sweaty old guys from the neighborhood during a drunken free-for-all through the city streets on an otherwise nondescript Tuesday? This is your chance! Nightlife Nightlife in the Hida area relies heavily on izakayas and karaoke. You’ll find much of the towns are shut down by ten p.m., and your options narrowed significantly. If you’re out and about early enough, here are some things to try in Takayama: - Pink-light district archery in Takayama (try not to shoot the very elderly proprietors, who occasionally wander onto the range). Closes at 10 p.m. - Bowling in Takayama (the manager looks suspiciously like Kim Jong Il) Closes at 11 p.m. (12 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday nights). BRAIN IT UP IN HIDA Educate youself! Hida offers classes for artists (and those who want to be), potters (and those who want to be), musicians (and those who want to be), kimono-wearers, tea ceremony participators, gardeners, cooks, and many other pursuits. A great place to start is in school; your teachers know what’s going on in town, and can often direct you to the class that meets your demands. The entirety of the ALT population of Takayama, and most of the rest of Hida, take Japanese lessons from Noriko Namazu. She’s contactable via email at [email protected] Reading and other nerdly pursuits A Hida Book club is attempting to come into existence. It meets whenever people get around to it, and involves cooking and eating, and maybe talking about the book some people may have read. Contact Tom Wanebo for info: [email protected]. The Takayama City Library has a small but growing selection of English-language books, and can special-order books you request. The books you brought or bought that you don’t want cluttering up your apartment, or weighing down your suitcase on the trip home are always gladly accepted as donations. Book stores in the Hida area don’t have English languages sections, but Japanese Amazon has a great selection, and can be used in English. www.amazon.co.jp TRANSPORTATION IN HIDA Getting around in Hida can be tricky. The winters make driving an adventure, and, we’re a bit isolated. There are train and bus services, but the limitations of their schedules and routes can make them impractical for every-day living.